Glow plug relay ?

[diesel583]

Just changed the 1031 GPs to 12 volt (bypassed the resister), now it takes forever to cycle. The wait light stays on for 45 sec. and the relay kicks out at about a min. The truck works fine with the resister hooked up, checked plugs and they are good.

Whats Up? I have read GP posts for the last two days.

 

[doghead]

Did you reattach the small orange wire to the outgoing side of the relay?(the TM shows it incorrectly)

What relay did you use?

What Glow Plugs are you using?

What size wire did you use to "byapass the resistor" and where did you tap into 12V?

Did your GP system work correctly before you changed it?

 

[diesel583]

Negative, will try that and let you know. Thanks

 

[diesel583]

Sorry missed questions.

Truck worked fine have had it about 2 years, did bypass to avoid problems. That didn't work.

Relay large silver came on truck

Glow plug welman 070

Useda 10ga wire, hooked to dog bone between batteries

Will check orange wire

 

[diesel583]

Small orange wire is on output , always has been. Will hook 24v back uo tomarrow and see if it returns to normal. Thanks

 

[doghead]

I have a bit of concern about using 10 ga wire for that length(to the batteries).

You might try a short(6") long jumper to the stud above and slightly to the left of the relay.

10 ga is underrated for the amp load of all the GPs. Over a long run, you might be loosing power under load.

You could use a volt meter and measure the voltage when the relay closes(wait a few seconds). It should be above 12.

My truck is wired as I described in this post(with a 6" 10 ga wire)

 

[diesel583]

I was wondering if that terminal you used would carry the load, along with everything else. If it works for you that sounds good. I will try that.

 

[doghead]

You might also try cleaning your GP card contacts. Pull it and use a pencil eraser or electrical contact cleaner(spray).

 

[rod]

Just changed the....... GPs to 12 volt (bypassed the resister), now it takes forever to cycle. The wait light stays on for 45 sec. and the relay kicks out at about a min. The truck works fine with the resister hooked up........

My truck did the same thing after I bypassed the resister. Knowing that I needed new GPs, I thought they would correct the problem. However, after I changed the GPs to the AC60s, it still did the same thing.

......You might try a short(6") long jumper to the stud above and slightly to the left of the relay......

Doghead, I may have over looked pictures of the resistor bypass but I had a few questions of how to complete it after reading about it here on SS so I called my buddy Randy at the Veteran's Museum in Huntsville to discuss the resister bypass. He told me to cut off the wire coming out of the right side of
resister, solder on a terminal lug and move it up to the stud on the connection box (not sure what it is called) as described in your post.

The truck still takes forever for the Wait light to go out. Well not forever but just as descibed it the orignal post in the thread. I willl check volt meter tomorrow.

 

[diesel583]

Ok truck sat out all night, mid 30s. Changed feed wire to terminal block, got 10.8 volts on output of soleniod. Took 4 heats about 45 sec each before it would start. Changed wire back to resister let truck set 2 hours. It was back to normal about 15 sec. Control card was cleaned last night. Battery voltage was 12.7 (each) first thing this morning. Voltage at terminal block was same as battery .

 

[Warthog]

With the bypass of the resistor, you are pulling all the current from the front battery.

Have you fully charged and load tested the front battery?

Just because the batteries show good voltage, you will not know the state of the batteries until you load test them.

 

[diesel583]

Yes, both batteries were charged and load tested the day before the change. They are about a year old and are a matched set, same build code.

 

[tbearatkin]

I was told my wire was overkill but then I was concerned of the amp draw of all the GP so I did mine this way. I did not know what else was supported by the lug on the firewall that others use. I thought they had a reason why they had a direct connection to the batteries via the resistor. So tried to keep it as direct as possible.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/56682-what-why-did-smoke-2.html

 

[mistaken1]

I was told my wire was overkill but then I was concerned of the amp draw of all the GP so I did mine this way. I did not know what else was supported by the lug on the firewall that others use. I thought they had a reason why they had a direct connection to the batteries via the resistor. So tried to keep it as direct as possible.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/56682-what-why-did-smoke-2.html

You were my inspiration.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attach...glow-plug-conversion-wire-routing-800x600.jpg

 

[SGT Estum]

Two thumbs up for overkill.

 

[laplander]

Same setup here.
Overkill rules

 

[rod]

My truck did the same thing after I bypassed the resister. Knowing that I needed new GPs, I thought they would correct the problem. However, after I changed the GPs to the AC60s, it still did the same thing.



Doghead, I may have over looked pictures of the resistor bypass but I had a few questions of how to complete it after reading about it here on SS so I called my buddy Randy at the Veteran's Museum in Huntsville to discuss the resister bypass. He told me to cut off the wire coming out of the right side of
resister, solder on a terminal lug and move it up to the stud on the connection box (not sure what it is called) as described in your post.

The truck still takes forever for the Wait light to go out. Well not forever but just as descibed it the orignal post in the thread. I willl check volt meter tomorrow.

I thought it might have been the GP Controller Card causing the problems, so I changed it out with a spare that I had. No luck, didn't help.

Today I changed out the GP Relay with a new one I bought from O'Rielly's. The truck cranked right up. The wait light stayed on for maybe 5-8 seconds and then fired right up. The GP Relay was made by BWD, part # S603.

 

[SGT LongT]

2nd Battery 24v?

I was told my wire was overkill but then I was concerned of the amp draw of all the GP so I did mine this way. I did not know what else was supported by the lug on the firewall that others use. I thought they had a reason why they had a direct connection to the batteries via the resistor. So tried to keep it as direct as possible.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/56682-what-why-did-smoke-2.html

When you connect to the rear battery it is in series with the front battery so shouldn't you be getting straight 24v instead of the 12v that you need? Thanks for the great pics

 

[mistaken1]

When you connect to the rear battery it is in series with the front battery so shouldn't you be getting straight 24v instead of the 12v that you need? Thanks for the great pics

If you connect to the rear battery positive post you will get 24V.

If you connect to the rear battery negative post you will get 12V.

The front batter positive post (12V) and the rear battery negative post are connected with a short piece of large wire. Electrically they are the same point.

The diamond shaped 12V bus on the firewall is connected to the rear battery negative post.

 

[tbearatkin]

When you connect to the rear battery it is in series with the front battery so shouldn't you be getting straight 24v instead of the 12v that you need? Thanks for the great pics

As mistaken stated.


At the point I connected it is still 12Volts does not matter if I hooked to the + (pos) terminal on the front battery or the - (neg) on the back battery.

NOW if I had let all the electrons flow through the back battery to its +(Pos) terminal and hooked up there THEN IT WOULD HAVE BEEN BAD. At that point it becomes 24volts.

Use your volt meter and check it, you wont get 24 volts until after it leaves the back battery.