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Glow Plug Replacement

HUMMER H1

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So where should i order my 24v glow plugs to make sure they are authentic? Are you guys afraid to name the vendor who is selling those bad glow plugs? Stop being politically correct.

hell I am not afraid to post.
Few months ago I posted how mid west military equipment suspension parts failed on the asphalt road. So you know from who not to buy, that’s the point of enthusiasts forum to help others what not to do.
 

Ramzi

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So where should i order my 24v glow plugs to make sure they are authentic? Are you guys afraid to name the vendor who is selling those bad glow plugs? Stop being politically correct.

hell I am not afraid to post.
Few months ago I posted how mid west military equipment suspension parts failed on the asphalt road. So you know from who not to buy, that’s the point of enthusiasts forum to help others what not to do.
To your question.... I ordered 3/8" Wellmann Glow Plugs from Black Dog Custom - they are dead nuts correct.
To your comment ... Nothing to do with being Politically Correct. - Im sick of the cancel culture, blame game and refuse to participate. I did not do enough research before making my initial purchase - so the fault lands in my lap. And for the record, Im pretty damn far from being PC.
 

HUMMER H1

Well-known member
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825
93
Location
California
To your question.... I ordered 3/8" Wellmann Glow Plugs from Black Dog Custom - they are dead nuts correct.
To your comment ... Nothing to do with being Politically Correct. - Im sick of the cancel culture, blame game and refuse to participate. I did not do enough research before making my initial purchase - so the fault lands in my lap. And for the record, Im pretty damn far from being PC.
I appreciate you putting the name of the seller here
Thank you ❤
 

taskunitbruiser

Active member
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Alabama
I cannot speak to how much crapier non-Wellman non-AC Delco plugs will be, but the passenger side removal and installation on my M1151A1 is such a massive pain in the ass, I wanted to make sure they are the best. I have the A/C and turbo and just too tight of a space to work in. If your truck doesn't have that it may be pretty simple, as the original M998s, etc are simple.. I have the 400A alternator too, so I had to work underneath for the driver side. Driver side was easy though, except for the one stuck plug. Not really sure what I would have done if the middle two passenger cylinders had a stuck glow.

I got mine from Mike at Black Dog. He even told me about the special Harbor Freight bendable ratchet to make passenger side possible! Real Wellman plugs.
 

FlameRed

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Not to hijack this thread, but I have been struggling with Glow Plug replacement also. I attempted to replace my glow plugs (6.2 NA) a few months ago,

I ran into big problems with two.
  • One on the pass side, I could not budge to loosen as it is rusted on the head. I applied too much pressure and the head is now a bit rounded and a 3/8 won't grip it anymore.
  • One on the driver's side, I just put a socket on it and it literally disintegrated instantly and has no head to grip and just the center electrode sticking out.
Just got back from two shops and they both want to remove both heads and send them off to a machine shop to have the two butchered glow plugs removed. One said he would not be interested to R&R the heads, and the other said they would only do it flat rate at $145/hour as they are not sure what else they might run into.

I am not sure what I will do. It runs great, and starts fine here in the Florida Inferno. I am afraid if I try anything more myself, it might not run at all!
 

Mogman

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Not to hijack this thread, but I have been struggling with Glow Plug replacement also. I attempted to replace my glow plugs (6.2 NA) a few months ago,

I ran into big problems with two.
  • One on the pass side, I could not budge to loosen as it is rusted on the head. I applied too much pressure and the head is now a bit rounded and a 3/8 won't grip it anymore.
  • One on the driver's side, I just put a socket on it and it literally disintegrated instantly and has no head to grip and just the center electrode sticking out.
Just got back from two shops and they both want to remove both heads and send them off to a machine shop to have the two butchered glow plugs removed. One said he would not be interested to R&R the heads, and the other said they would only do it flat rate at $145/hour as they are not sure what else they might run into.

I am not sure what I will do. It runs great, and starts fine here in the Florida Inferno. I am afraid if I try anything more myself, it might not run at all!
If it were me I would just leave them be, it will start well enough on 6, but others may have ideas.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
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Charlotte NC
Not to hijack this thread, but I have been struggling with Glow Plug replacement also. I attempted to replace my glow plugs (6.2 NA) a few months ago,

I ran into big problems with two.
  • One on the pass side, I could not budge to loosen as it is rusted on the head. I applied too much pressure and the head is now a bit rounded and a 3/8 won't grip it anymore.
  • One on the driver's side, I just put a socket on it and it literally disintegrated instantly and has no head to grip and just the center electrode sticking out.
Just got back from two shops and they both want to remove both heads and send them off to a machine shop to have the two butchered glow plugs removed. One said he would not be interested to R&R the heads, and the other said they would only do it flat rate at $145/hour as they are not sure what else they might run into.

I am not sure what I will do. It runs great, and starts fine here in the Florida Inferno. I am afraid if I try anything more myself, it might not run at all!
.
I agree with @Mogman . You are in Florida.
You should be able to crank easily enough on 6 GP's.

.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Agree with above. Best leave alone…

If you must, the GP is hollow and you can try easy out. You can tack weld the rounded plug to a ratchet and then blowtorch to loosen and remove.

Worst case is remove the head and drill and tap
 

FlameRed

Well-known member
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Florida
Thanks guys.

I agree, best to leave those two alone as it will start and run now. I am afraid if I mess with it I will transform it into a non-runner aua I have two more that I have not touched which I will look at next.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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I’m about to go through the same Hell. One of mine snapped at the head. #8.

Going for a test drive. Starts easy today as 60 degrees. Winter chill will change that.

Considering a Webast for Winter starts. Eventually I must pull this bad boy and any other annoying ones. I hate the idea of pulling heads but sometimes you gotta face reality. That will be a job for this Autumn. Not now. Too many trails to discover with the Hummer H1 adventure team.
 
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MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
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This is why it's a must use never seize on the treads on the new glow plugs to help prevent this issue. This system is such a bad design and causes uncontrollable cursing for all who have to deal with them. Why couldn't they have used a grate system like on the Cummins. Just dumb.

Mark
 

Mogman

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Thanks guys.

I agree, best to leave those two alone as it will start and run now. I am afraid if I mess with it I will transform it into a non-runner aua I have two more that I have not touched which I will look at next.
I would ohm them, if they are working I would just leave them alone given the history of deterioration.
 

Coug

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Olympia/WA
my truck has started in frozen weather with at least 4 bad glow plugs, maybe more. I've replaced 3 of them so far.
It does put out quite a bit of smoke for the first 10-20 seconds or so, but runs perfectly after that.

I'd say for only 2 stck glow plugs it isn't worth the time/money to tear it all apart.
 

Mogman

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This is why it's a must use never seize on the treads on the new glow plugs to help prevent this issue. This system is such a bad design and causes uncontrollable cursing for all who have to deal with them. Why couldn't they have used a grate system like on the Cummins. Just dumb.

Mark

View attachment 920501
Cummins was building decent 4 stroke diesels long before GM made the absolute dismal attempt, all the men that designed the 2 stroke Detroits were obviously long gone before the 5.7L was designed, all of them up to and including the 8.2L "fuel pincher" were a total POS, the big truck 4 strokes were not much better, you can't give away a 10L Detroit powered truck, those have become a little better but Cummins owns the inline diesel market.
They learned nothing from the 5.7L series engines, the 6.2/6.5L was still basically patterned after a gas engine as was the 5.7L with a mild attempt to solve the head gasket issue.
Thank god someone at GM woke up and teamed with Isuzu to design the 6.6L, one of the best decisions GM ever made.
 

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
WOBURN. MA.
Cummins was building decent 4 stroke diesels long before GM made the absolute dismal attempt, all the men that designed the 2 stroke Detroits were obviously long gone before the 5.7L was designed, all of them up to and including the 8.2L "fuel pincher" were a total POS, the big truck 4 strokes were not much better, you can't give away a 10L Detroit powered truck, those have become a little better but Cummins owns the inline diesel market.
They learned nothing from the 5.7L series engines, the 6.2/6.5L was still basically patterned after a gas engine as was the 5.7L with a mild attempt to solve the head gasket issue.
Thank god someone at GM woke up and teamed with Isuzu to design the 6.6L, one of the best decisions GM ever made.

I loved the old two stroke Detroits. Easy to work on, made good power and were easy as hell to work on. The 4-53T was compact made good power and the weight and height reasonable.

Mark

Don't get me going on the POS 5.7 diesels. I have some experience with them and you have to wonder what demented fool said "Yeah let's go with that"
 
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