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glow plug solenoid

Warthog

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Is the wiring for your truck stock? Is the GP controller card installed and functioning?

You need to find out if the new relay uses the mounting bracket as a ground. If it does then your system will not work properly.

The way the truck is setup stock, with the ignition in the run position the small pink wire is always hot. The controller card closes the ground circuit via the small blue wire.

If you relay uses the mounting bracket for its ground then the relay will be energized whenever the key is in the run position and will burnout your plus in no time.
 

greenspot

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my truck is stock. car quest has another one coming tomorrow. cost much more than the universal one i tried that did nothing. maybe the new one will work.
 

doghead

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Universal solenoid? Is that what is on it's package(labeled)?

Brand, part number?
 

doghead

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Rather than randomly change parts(you probably already ruined your GP controller and possibly all of your glowplugs), a proper diagnosis is needed.

This is outlined in the TM, or we can talk you through that.

You need to be much more specific, about the parts.
 

Warthog

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i guess I should contact CARNAC and have him tell me what the part number is. I know I suck at guessing correctly.
 

greenspot

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the reason i want to change the glow plug selenoid is because i don't hear the second click of the selenoid like i always have.
the old part has a number on it 1918210 the new that did not work at all is made by Cole Hersee and the number is 24008-BX
why do you think i'm burning out things? I think the correct one is coming today from Car quest. we'll see. I'm the only Albanian living in Belgrade. Pretty cool.
Thanks for your help. I may need more help but i hope not.......
 

Drock

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I had the same problem with mine when I first bought the truck. It had a non functional universal solenoid on it. I changed GP's all fuel lines ,lift pump, and spin on filter mod till someone on here helped me find the problem. Any way it didn't fry the plugs or the card. My knowledge of electrical is limited at best , but I think a solenoid is just an on/off switch. And when they fail I think it's in the off position. If so I don't see how it could fry anything.
 

cucvrus

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This is a picture of the snow plug solenoid that I use. The one on the right is the OEM and the left is one for a snow plow set up. Meyer, Western , what ever. I still have the ballasts hooked up on all my trucks and have been using these since the OEM ones were discontinued. They are less then $20 US and I pick them up at a local farm supply store. I hope that helps you. I have also had great results with the 1979 5.7 diesel relay from GM and Cole Hersee units that had the ungrounded base. Good luck. Snow plow solenoid.jpg
 

MarcusOReallyus

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My knowledge of electrical is limited at best , but I think a solenoid is just an on/off switch. And when they fail I think it's in the off position. If so I don't see how it could fry anything.
They are an on/off switch, but they can be accidentally left in the "ON" position, which is going to fry some glow plugs.

Here's how:


There is an electromagnet in there that operates the switch. (Sometimes people will refer to that as a "coil", which is partly accurate.) To turn the switch ON, the electromagnet needs electrical current. That means it needs a + and a - (ground), and we need a way to control that. We need that current flowing on command, not just whenever, and not all the time. So we need to switch that current across the electromagnet (the coil). We can switch the + OR the ground. Either way works just fine.

In the case of our trucks, the controller card supplies the ground. The + is connected permanently. So, we're switching the ground.

That means we can't have that electromagnet grounded to the case. If it is, the switch is ON all the time. Smokin' glow plugs!

That's why it matters what solenoid you get. If you get one that has the coil grounded to the case, you will turn your glow plugs on as soon as you connect it.

So, there are a lot of solenoids that do NOT have a grounded case, but many DO. That's why you can't just go out and grab any solenoid that seems to fit. You MUST have one that does NOT ground the coil to the case.

So grab one from your local parts house and get lucky, or unlucky, OR, understand how it works and get the right one.

:beer:
 

Warthog

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This is what I have found.

The 198210 relay is an Oshkosh part number. I can find no information on it.

The 24008-BX Cole-Hersee unit is a 24v version of the relay. It is the wrong one.

You need a 12v relay. There are many to choose from but a good one is the NAPA ST-85. Or the BWD S603 from just about any parts house

The CUCV glowplug system uses 12v to engergize the internal coil.
 
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cucvrus

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It don't have to be a "Military Solenoid". If you have one fine. It must be an ungrounded base solenoid. Just like the man is telling you. "Marcus" You got the jist of it? It controls the flow of current from the big post to the big post after a signal is sent from an outside source. Good Luck I hope it works for you.
 

doghead

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We have been correctly advising members for over 7 years.

Try using the stickys/wikis, and posts previously posted.

Or just ask for the correct one.

Also, try to capitalize(as our rules request). It's not that hard to do and keep our forums looking nice.
 

greenspot

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I did what you said and got the 12 volt relay. Truck started right up. Thank goodness i have this forum or I would be still be not running. Thank You! Thank You!
 
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