glow plug temperature switch

[Warthog]

You didn't tell us what vehicle you are talking about, I am going to assume it is the M1009 you list in your other threads and not a M1010.

It is the power wire for the rear fuel pump on the M1010 units. Not needed on the other trucks.

It is shown in wiring diagram E-22 of the TM 9-2320-289-34 manual

 

[Small Prepper]

Afternoon

Thanks Warthog

That's is it, Yes it is an M1009, Still trying to find my way around the Manuals.

Thanks, S.P.

 

[Shankem-Deep]

I replaced mine too, with one from CUCVElectric. Replaced the GP card too. Still didn't work right, so I left it unplugged. Seems to to have been fine without it. My local 6.2 diesel mechanic recommended just leaving it unplugged. Apparently it was a GM problem. Mysterious.

So is it ok to leave it unplugged or do I need to replace this switch?

 

[forest522]

Well, good question. As a total amateur with only a couple years experience on this...and a mechanic that I trust...I have left the switch unplugged. It is neatly tied back in case I need to put it back, but it is not plugged in. I have driven this rig nearly daily, stopped and started on errands, etc...No problem yet. The plugs, ACs, go their merry 14 seconds and she start every time. In the morning or at cold starts, I have some white smoke that lasts for about 20 minutes.

The GP controller card works well, I hear and see the volts bump up after about 30 seconds of post start glow plug activity. Then a little later, the fast idle advance kicks in and the rpms drop.

I also have a manual glow plug switch under the dash fully wired and ready to just in case...hope this is helpful.

 

[antennaclimber]

GP Sensor

Attached is a graph of the WT3000 sensor resistance vs temperature.

As you can see, if the temperature increases, the resistance decreases. So if you disconnect the temp sensor, the resistance is high to the glow plug card. This will cause the GP card to "think" that it's cold and will fire the GP's for the maximum time. It won't damage the card, but you will be lighting up the glow plugs unnecessarily when the engine is hot.

One could wire up a three position switch with a corresponding cold (30k ohm), warm (3k ohm) and hot (300 ohm) resistance value and manually control the GP fire times as needed.

Or,

You just wire a 5.6k ohm resistor across the temp sensor input and fool the card into thinking the engine temperature is about 50 degrees at all times.
KarlView attachment Thermistor Chart.pdf

 

[forest522]

Wow! Now if I could just find such a switch...You sir are a GP card Ninja!

 

[forest522]

Could one install one of these:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SQUARE-D-Common-30-millimeter-Heavyduty-Selector-7A162

with wiring leading into each position with a resistor such as you described with a resister like this:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=003-30K

If I understand you correctly, with such a switch wired inline with the temperature wire, when starting the enginge one would "guess" at which temperature to "trick" the GP controller after having been driving the vehicle for awhile (very situational dependant of course) as being hot, warm, or cold. Then place the three way switch in guessed temperature, turn the key and then the GP card would believe the engine is hot, warm, or cold...

Interesting....

 

[southdave]

Hate to bring this up.......... but the sensor on civy model is also used to shut off the cold start solenoid in the injection pump.. if it cold out dose bunch of stuff like advance the injection 6 degrees floods the fuel chamber with fuel... So the experiment begins.. my hillbilly plan to reduce the chaos created (by gm to sell parts the government, design by Russian operatives to insure no cucv would never survive Russian winter.. ) the before mention is just a joke... Basically from reading of several sources the temp switch located on the rear of passenger head is 125 to 140 switch, that normally closed til hit what ever temp it is supposed to.. so here the plan using ford starter solenoid taking the power from the hot side fusing it with say 10 amp fuse and connect to the cold start solenoid on the injection pump .. now to figure out a way to engage the fuel heater and cold idle advance solenoid off the same switch maybe with a relay setup or something..

 

[carter262]

To revise an old subject.

Someone above stated that NAPA has the original one. I'm in the process of replacing my car and temp. sensor. I found these on NAPA. I believe they are the correct original replacement. So here are the part numbers. There are two different brands. If I have the wrong part someone please let me know. I have not picked oned up yet but am going to this week. So I will update when I am more sure.

Coolant Temp Sensor
Part Number: ECH TS4032

Product Line: Echlin Ignition Parts
$20.25

Part Number: MPE TS4032SB
Product Line: Mileage Plus Electrical

$13.05

 

[Warthog]

According to my parts list the TS4032 is the same as the original unit. It has the round connector instead of the new style oval connector posted above.

 

[carter262]

According to my parts list the TS4032 is the same as the original unit. It has the round connector instead of the new style oval connector posted above.

View attachment 525155

Thanks Warthog for confirming what I thought. I am a big fan of sharing any part numbers we can with everyone.

Is there a replacement plug for the original or do you have to go to the new style? I want to change the plug too on mine. The old one looks a little frayed. I will go to the new style if I have to but am trying not to have to buy a BWD product if I can help it. Not a big fan.

 

[llong66]

I am not real sure of this, but I think running w/o that sensor can cause the plugs to overheat to the point of failure. I had put my rebuilt motor in and had damaged the original plug in the process, figured no big deal, just run w/o it until I get a new one, I ended up burning up a whole set of AC60s in the process and fried my card. It could be coincidence, but the AC60s I had were only 2 years and ~3k miles old. Everything had been fine prior to this. I have since wired my GPs manually and I put a small 12v light on the dash so I know when my plugs are on so I dont have this happen again, even once I get a new card.

 

[mabrinkhoff]

How long do yours stay on with the temp sensor unplugged. I am working on one and 40 seconds is about all I cared to leave the key on. With the GM ECT sensor setup it was too momentary.

 

[j3vw]

Does the GP controller get a temp reading from any other source? Meaning the GP's will always function without the inhibitor? providing all is functioning as it should...
THX in advance..

 

[Bighorn]

Attached is a graph of the WT3000 sensor resistance vs temperature.

As you can see, if the temperature increases, the resistance decreases. So if you disconnect the temp sensor, the resistance is high to the glow plug card. This will cause the GP card to "think" that it's cold and will fire the GP's for the maximum time. It won't damage the card, but you will be lighting up the glow plugs unnecessarily when the engine is hot.

One could wire up a three position switch with a corresponding cold (30k ohm), warm (3k ohm) and hot (300 ohm) resistance value and manually control the GP fire times as needed.

Or,

You just wire a 5.6k ohm resistor across the temp sensor input and fool the card into thinking the engine temperature is about 50 degrees at all times.
KarlView attachment 435710

This.
Recently due to the introduction of the Paradox cucv coolant upgrade kit, at least one member confirmed that above is exactly what happens if that thermister (located in the back of the driverside head block off plate on the m1009) is removed or otherwise disconnected.
Your gp card will always think the coolant is sub zero and assign maximum glow time everytime, even when the engine is warm.

 

[jmenende]

You mean this?

OD Iron LLC Military Vehicle Parts and Accessories

Anyone know the torque spec for this off the bat?

 

[Humvee1538]

Good day to all. NAPA does not have the TS4032SB sensor but they do carry the TS4032. I can not find any difference. Will the TS4032 work in the M1009?

 

[ezgn]

Good day to all. NAPA does not have the TS4032SB sensor but they do carry the TS4032. I can not find any difference. Will the TS4032 work in the M1009?

Try Amazon NGK/NTK EFOO74 This is located on the drivers side on the rear head. The one on the passenger side for the cold advance is TS-621 at Amazon

 

[Squibbly]

I'd convert to the two prong. You're eventually going to have to anyways, or pay 10x what the original part is even worth for the same effect. It's just an open or closed switch.

...or, you can put this manly looking button in your ash tray and be awesome like me (Don't tell @Skinny . He has an unnatural hatred for buttons. )...although it's a backup now after my wife bought me a proper card from Hillbilly.

 

[Humvee1538]

Thanks guys, I have the "button" as a backup. The problem is that I had to pull the Hillbilly printed circuit card because the glow plugs wouldn't turn off. I am thinking that the sensor is bad telling the card that the engine is cold.