dodger73
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Went to do a spin on fuel filter conversion on one of my M1008 CUCVs. Everything we found online seemed to be chopped up & incomplete in regards to a parts list and how to. So Im going to give you a start to finish picture scenario along with a complete parts list.
1st picture - on the left is a GM spin on fuel filter system, part # 12552214. On the right is the fuel filter box off of the CUCV. Both are laying with their backs up. You will notice on the CUCV, the ICE plug has already been cut off before I took the picture and discarded to make it so the other plugs that will be used in this conversion will be easier to identify their location.
2nd picture is both fuel filter systems with their fronts facing upwards.
3rd picture shows the 2 plugs cut off the CUCV fuel filter system. The plug in the middle is to the fuel heater system & was removed off the top of the CUCV system. The 2nd plug closest to the wire stripper pliers was cut off the side of the CUCV fuel filter system. That is your water in fuel sensor plug.
4th picture is of CUCV plugs attached to the GM spin on filter system with solder seal wire connectors and then protective plastic sleeves put on over the top & taped up. The plugs are routed towards the direction that they will be connected to on the CUCV. Now with that said, the factory plugs that came on the GM spin on system were snipped off right above the plug ends. You will quickly notice that the wire colors and the number of wires used on the CUCV plugs and the GM spin on filter are almost identical in color so theyll be real easy to match back up.
5th picture is of GM factory fire wall mount bracket attached to the GM spin on filter. If you click on the picture and enlarge it you will see the head of one of the bolts that goes thru the factory firewall bracket and goes into the GM spin on fuel filter system. In order to accomplish this, I took & enlarged one of the holes in the firewall bracket, took and marked the other hole & had to completely drill a new hole to match the GM spin on filter bracket. Now you will notice that the GM spin on fuel filter system mounting bracket is already pre drilled and tapped right out of the box. All you have to do is find 2 bolts and lock washers that are the correct size and length so they dont protrude out of the spin on bracket and they end up flush. You will notice on the GM firewall bracket some of you will have a different style. 2 of my M1008s have the other style & one had this style. All bolt to the firewall in the same exact location with the same bolts. This one you are looking at comes out towards the fuel filter block immediately below the top 2 bolts on the firewall at a 90 & then does another 90 and the fuel filter block mounts to it. The other one drops straight down below all the firewall bolts including the 3rd one with the ear. Then approximately at the 3rd bolt comes out at a 90 then down at a 90 & the fuel filter block attaches the same exact way. I dont know why GM made 2 brackets but I prefer this one because it allows my 24 volt wire system to go behind the fuel block instead of over the top of the bracket.
6th picture shows the Summit itemized parts list with cost. Click and enlarge to see all the parts required for the GM fuel filter as far as adapters and barbs. Now add the $100 for ebay that we gave for the GM spin on filter. Part # 12552214.
Click on the 7th picture for the solder seal wire connectors that we got off Amazon at a cost of $39.99. Part # B01ILGINBC.
Not pictured (no price or part #s). We purchased 1-24 piece of ⅜ gates barricade multi fuel line and 1-24 ¼ gates barricade multi fuel line. 4 total hose clamps of appropriate sizes for ⅜ & ¼.
Simply got up in the engine bay. Already had the radiator removed for repair. Reached in the back under the intake manifold. Undid the ¼ fuel line hose clamp from back of injector pump, removed old 1/4 fuel line and clamp & reinstalled new ¼ fuel line and new hose clamp. Reinstalled new ¼ fuel line in holder by valve cover. Removed old ⅜ fuel line & hose clamp at valve cover where it attaches to lift pump steel fuel line. Reinstalled new ⅜ fuel line & new hose clamp. Installed GM spin on filter system to firewall, plugged in fuel filter heater plug, plugged in water in fuel system sensor plug, cut new ⅜ fuel line to proper length, slid it on the ⅜ back barb & tightened hose clamp. Now heres where you want to pay attention, reach in the back underneath the manifold, make sure you didnt pull your new ¼ line too tight and making it kink at the 90 degree bend but also make sure you didnt leave too much & then have it kink the other way. Get the bend just right. Make sure the ¼ hold down is tight and nothing is rubbing on either hose. Cut the new ¼ fuel line to proper length up by barb and paying close attention to not only cut the right length but dont knock anything down inside the new fuel line. Attach the new 1/4 fuel line. We probably could have gotten away with the 32 year old GM preformed fuel lines but hence the fact they are 32 years old & you're already in there so might as well make it all new. Then youre done other than priming the filter system and looking for leaks. Click on picture 8 for the finished product.
Hoped this helped. The reason that I did this conversion is due to bleed off in the factory fuel filter block on these CUCVs, making them almost impossible to start. This will solve your problem to a t. All the CUCVs that I've done this to, with this problem, will start on a dime after. (now bare in mind that if you have air/fuel leaks anywhere else in the fuel system, this will not fix it. This will only address the factory fuel filter block & the 2 hoses adjacent to it that were changed.)
1st picture - on the left is a GM spin on fuel filter system, part # 12552214. On the right is the fuel filter box off of the CUCV. Both are laying with their backs up. You will notice on the CUCV, the ICE plug has already been cut off before I took the picture and discarded to make it so the other plugs that will be used in this conversion will be easier to identify their location.
2nd picture is both fuel filter systems with their fronts facing upwards.
3rd picture shows the 2 plugs cut off the CUCV fuel filter system. The plug in the middle is to the fuel heater system & was removed off the top of the CUCV system. The 2nd plug closest to the wire stripper pliers was cut off the side of the CUCV fuel filter system. That is your water in fuel sensor plug.
4th picture is of CUCV plugs attached to the GM spin on filter system with solder seal wire connectors and then protective plastic sleeves put on over the top & taped up. The plugs are routed towards the direction that they will be connected to on the CUCV. Now with that said, the factory plugs that came on the GM spin on system were snipped off right above the plug ends. You will quickly notice that the wire colors and the number of wires used on the CUCV plugs and the GM spin on filter are almost identical in color so theyll be real easy to match back up.
5th picture is of GM factory fire wall mount bracket attached to the GM spin on filter. If you click on the picture and enlarge it you will see the head of one of the bolts that goes thru the factory firewall bracket and goes into the GM spin on fuel filter system. In order to accomplish this, I took & enlarged one of the holes in the firewall bracket, took and marked the other hole & had to completely drill a new hole to match the GM spin on filter bracket. Now you will notice that the GM spin on fuel filter system mounting bracket is already pre drilled and tapped right out of the box. All you have to do is find 2 bolts and lock washers that are the correct size and length so they dont protrude out of the spin on bracket and they end up flush. You will notice on the GM firewall bracket some of you will have a different style. 2 of my M1008s have the other style & one had this style. All bolt to the firewall in the same exact location with the same bolts. This one you are looking at comes out towards the fuel filter block immediately below the top 2 bolts on the firewall at a 90 & then does another 90 and the fuel filter block mounts to it. The other one drops straight down below all the firewall bolts including the 3rd one with the ear. Then approximately at the 3rd bolt comes out at a 90 then down at a 90 & the fuel filter block attaches the same exact way. I dont know why GM made 2 brackets but I prefer this one because it allows my 24 volt wire system to go behind the fuel block instead of over the top of the bracket.
6th picture shows the Summit itemized parts list with cost. Click and enlarge to see all the parts required for the GM fuel filter as far as adapters and barbs. Now add the $100 for ebay that we gave for the GM spin on filter. Part # 12552214.
Click on the 7th picture for the solder seal wire connectors that we got off Amazon at a cost of $39.99. Part # B01ILGINBC.
Not pictured (no price or part #s). We purchased 1-24 piece of ⅜ gates barricade multi fuel line and 1-24 ¼ gates barricade multi fuel line. 4 total hose clamps of appropriate sizes for ⅜ & ¼.
Simply got up in the engine bay. Already had the radiator removed for repair. Reached in the back under the intake manifold. Undid the ¼ fuel line hose clamp from back of injector pump, removed old 1/4 fuel line and clamp & reinstalled new ¼ fuel line and new hose clamp. Reinstalled new ¼ fuel line in holder by valve cover. Removed old ⅜ fuel line & hose clamp at valve cover where it attaches to lift pump steel fuel line. Reinstalled new ⅜ fuel line & new hose clamp. Installed GM spin on filter system to firewall, plugged in fuel filter heater plug, plugged in water in fuel system sensor plug, cut new ⅜ fuel line to proper length, slid it on the ⅜ back barb & tightened hose clamp. Now heres where you want to pay attention, reach in the back underneath the manifold, make sure you didnt pull your new ¼ line too tight and making it kink at the 90 degree bend but also make sure you didnt leave too much & then have it kink the other way. Get the bend just right. Make sure the ¼ hold down is tight and nothing is rubbing on either hose. Cut the new ¼ fuel line to proper length up by barb and paying close attention to not only cut the right length but dont knock anything down inside the new fuel line. Attach the new 1/4 fuel line. We probably could have gotten away with the 32 year old GM preformed fuel lines but hence the fact they are 32 years old & you're already in there so might as well make it all new. Then youre done other than priming the filter system and looking for leaks. Click on picture 8 for the finished product.
Hoped this helped. The reason that I did this conversion is due to bleed off in the factory fuel filter block on these CUCVs, making them almost impossible to start. This will solve your problem to a t. All the CUCVs that I've done this to, with this problem, will start on a dime after. (now bare in mind that if you have air/fuel leaks anywhere else in the fuel system, this will not fix it. This will only address the factory fuel filter block & the 2 hoses adjacent to it that were changed.)
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