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Going to look at a M1008 this week, got some questions...

DonMn

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I made an intro post in the new members section, but I'll probably be mainly posting in the CUCV forum so I thought I would re-introduce myself here and give you a little back story before I ask some questions.

In about a month I'm going to have to start making a 120 mile commute during the week and I'm selling my daily driver 4x4, I have to replace it with an economy car. But I've always owned a truck and I can't get away with not having a truck. So I figured I might as well get something heavy duty. I need a truck for going to home improvement store, camping, hunting and hauling my ATV around. It won't be a daily driver. I've owned a few late 70's/ early 80's Chevy's before, but only gasoline powered. I don't know anything about diesels. I'm not too worried about having to work on it myself, I always worked on my own vehicles.

The M1008 for sale locally is a 1986 with 68k on it, the guy is asking $3,995 B/O. From the pictures, the body looks pretty straight and rust free. Is this a good/bad/fair price for an M1008?

What questions should I ask about the motor, what type of maintence should be around and before 68K?

Anything specific I should ask or be looking for? Is there something prone to breakage I should be looking for?

I'm sure I'll think of a few more questions before I go and look at it.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Don
 

jay741

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i would think the price is a little on the high side but being rust free is a plus. post some pictures up if you can
 

Armada

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That's a very fair price if it's truly rust free, has a clear title, has been gone through, and doesn't need anything. If it has the rubber floor in it, pull it up along with the door sill plates and check for rust. Also check the front fender wells for rot along with the front core support. Have the glow plug and starter relays been replaced? Also, be wary of any modifications or 'improvements' made to the stock condition. Good luck.
 

DonMn

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I talked to the owner tonight and he emailed me pics, the truck was from AZ so it has minimal rust. The cab corners are starting to rot out and some rust bubbleing on the bottoms of the doors, but the truck is very solid. It's not nearly as bad as most of the old Chevs in this area, I'm not too worried about what rust there is on it, being I'm a bodyman/painter by trade. The owner said brakes were good but tires would have to be replaced in about a year, still had some tread left. The dash pad is shot, many HUGE cracks.

He has replaced the glow plugs and the glow plug controler or card, I don't remember which. The truck is only about a 30 minute drive from my house, the owner was knew about this site but I forgot to ask if he was a member.

There is also a M1009 that about an hour away from my house also that is a 1984 62K with good tires and all the maintance done, I'll have to call to what was done to it, it's also about half the price.


A few questions for you guys: What service manual do you guys use? Does Chilton or Hayes have a service manual that covers diesels?

Also I have owned a few old 4x4's in the past but never had to work on the diffs, is it a big pain to switch gears? 4.56's might be a little more than I need, I was thinking about checking on some 4.11's.

Thanks for the replies so far.

Don
 

doghead

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If you get the 1008, your stuck with the 4:56 gears unless you swap out the axles. If the tires are old military issued tires, replace them as soon as you get it, they will be old, dry rotten and unsafe at highway speeds. Stock 1009s will drive along at 65mph just fine, the 1008 will top out at 60ish. 1009s get 20+MPG while the 1008 gets about 10 mpg(depending on speeds). The 1009(Blazer) is a better choice for highway use, an overdrive transmission in either truck is a nice modification(but not needed). As stated above, the military tech manuals are availible in the resource section, here on the site.
 

Armada

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Cruising along at a steady 55mph I average 16-17 mpg on the 1008's I've had.
20-21mpg at 65-70 mph in the 1009's. Your results may vary....
 

Chief_919

Well-known member
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Western NC
Tell him you want it cold when you arrive. Whenever I go check on a diesel and it is nice and warm I get suspect about how easily it starts.

Check for "ether tracks" on the intake where they have sprayed ether in, it will look just like if you sprayed brake cleaner on and it dried without being wiped.

Used diesel oil will look dirty, and gets that way fast. Super clean oil will set off red flags with me.
 

DonMn

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St.Paul,MN.
Long story, short. I'm not in the market for a CUCV anymore guys, at least for a few months. Buyer for my truck wanted me to sell it for too cheap, don't need to sell it. I just wanted to keep from putting too many miles on it going back and forth to school.

I guess I just have to rough it, going back to forth to school in a '03 GMC Stepside 4x4 with 44K on it :-D.

Thanks for the replies to my post.

Don
 
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