• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Gonna do LS swap - 6.2 is fixin to throw a rod.

Baywolf195

New member
1
0
0
Location
Harliengen
I have two. So the main one is the museum piece. The second one, well it's the project.
It's always had a 6.2 that's always needed nursing, but finally it has bit the dust. I have spare parts i've been scavenging like a 2003 ls engine, a 700r4 and the 208 C t-case.

I've given it some thought and think it might be nice to make this one into a daily driver. At the moment I'm stuck between going with a 2000 stall converter or a 3000.

I plan to tune the ls and get the 700r4 "built" and see how they last. Since I am thinking daily driver, i like the cabin noise being reduced and the gain of overdrive.

And before I get ripped to shreads, I can't help it if it died. I just cant afford the cummins or duramax and dont want to put up with the noise. The weight reduction at the beach is also gonna be a plus.

So does anyone have any project with a LS, a 700r4 and 208, and how does it run, which converter did you go with?
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,028
113
Location
London England
Welcome to the site and the hobby. You have written a lot of numbers, and descriptions that are vague in the extreme . For me at least. So, I ask 'Two what'?, and an LS 700 r.....this that, the 'other' (more numbers more letters), may I respectfully suggest YOU know what you have, (and know what you are attempting) Me? I haven't a clue what you are on about..well,no, I am sort of trying to guess What truck, car, van, and or accessories you are making a project of.
Try to be at least a bit more descriptive and be more informative, I would think that then, others would proffer advices, even if they did not have the same type of 'vehicle?'
 

Nomadic

Active member
337
79
28
Location
Nevada
Which LS engine are you going to use? The LS1, LS2, LS3 and LS6 will have its power band in a very different RPM range than a diesel. I'm not sure if that matters to you, but it is noteworthy. There are truck versions of the LS engines that might be a better fit.
 

Dock Rocker

Active member
980
72
28
Location
Jackson ms
This guy did it. Some good info on his Channell.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLiaqFLIC-AYgvqI90cSfsQ

Why in the world would you do a 700r4 and an LS. Go ahead and do a 4l80e while you are there or keep the th400. The rom’s would be ok at 65-70 with an LS.

You will need a 2 inch body lift to clear a truck intake. You will need to find a way to run the 24 volt stuff like the heater and the wiper motor.
 

tage

Active member
679
68
28
Location
LOS ANGELES / CALIFORNIA
Ls doesn't have to be ls1 ect.
You can always swap a 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 truck engine and not worry about breaking your drive line.
Plenty of room even with the intake. Can prolly swap everything for under a grand if you modified the original wiring harness.

Those truck engines respond very well to forced induction as well....
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,479
25
38
Location
Houston Texas
Why would you want a high stall converter for a daily driver? Are you drag racing? Not to mention your have a good chance of getting 3 or 4 MPG. A 3K stall would make the over drive about useless. You would be around 3K in 3rd and 4th gear at the same speed. Unless you were doing 85MPH in high gear. Go easy on the throttle. AMC 20 diffs are not known to handle high HP. It should sound incredible leaving a red light.
 

Awol

Well-known member
535
527
93
Location
MA
LS swaps are not complicated at all. Certain vehicles will have their troubles, but they're all easy enough to overcome.

For a Humvee, lets start at the motor mounts.

1. In the civilian market, a 350 SBC powered H1 was offered. I would grab a set of frame side motor mounts for a 350 H1. After you have these, grab engine side 350 mounts, and an adaptor that will allow you to bolt them to the LS engine. There's dozens of companies out there making LS swap parts, but I've always had good luck with ICT Billet.

2. The engine itself can be anything, but more than likely you'll be going with the truck line of engines due to cost. I would get the 6.0 for sure, but a 5.3 would be fine too. The truck oil pans hang down pretty low, but in a Humvee it shouldn't be an issue. Starting in 2003, GM went to a drive by wire assembly, so if you grab a DBW setup, make sure you get the gas pedal and TAC unit.

3. The transmission. You mentioned going with a 700R4. I like the idea, as it simplifies everything as it relates to wiring, and you should be able to keep the stock driveshaft's. One issue you'll have to overcome, is attaching the TV cable to the throttle body. LS throttle bodies turn backwards towards the driver, so you need to weld a small plate with a ball stud facing forward. That way when the throttle is depressed, it's pulling the TV cable outward. Easy stuff, but it can become more complicated if you go with a DBW setup, because there's nothing on the throttle body to mount the cable to. You'd have to connect it to the gas pedal, which can be done.

One other thing to think about though. You can get an LS setup with a 4L60E or 4L80E already connected. It will make the build a little harder, but might be something to look into.

Also, the trans will need a speed sensor. You can use the factory sensor in the 700R4 (if it had one), and program the LS computer to read it, or you can buy an aftermarket unit. I use aftermarket ones that allow the signal to go the computer, but also allow a speedo cable to pass through. That way you can still run a mechanical speedometer, instead of converting to an electric unit.

4. The harness. GM LS harness' are super easy to modify yourself for standalone use. I've built 3 of them so far, and they've always worked the first try. There are plenty of options if you don't want to convert your own, such as companies that will convert your old harness, or supply you with a brand new unit. It only costs about $20 to actually build your own. Simply remove all the wires that are not needed, cut off the factory fuse box, and make your own. Mine have 4 fuses and two relays. Super clean and simple. I also wire in an OBD2 port for diagnostics.

5. 12v. This can be slightly tricky. You'll need to convert the truck to 12v, which in itself isn't too bad, but there are a few things to consider. All lighting will need to be changed, but that's easily done. Certain things will pose a challenge, such as the wiper motor. The civilian H1 used a different setup, so they're not a direct swap. I propose one of those universal wiper motors designed for hot rods. They mount to the windshield frame like the original, but I'm sure they'll take a little modifying to work.

I can go on and on, but this should help you get started. If you have any more questions just ask. Some guys will give you flack for swapping a Humvee, but I say do whatever you want. They're cheap, plentiful, and at the end of the day it's yours. The 6.0 will run circles around the 6.2/6.5 diesel, and if you run a decent exhaust on it, it'll sound 10x better!
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks