Good ideas for screw extraction, please

[cranetruck]

Uncovered what looked like a loose cap screw on the idler arm (image 1), but it turned out to be a brokes grade 5, 5/8 dia bolt (image 2).
The broken bolt is in the water pump housing, so if it comes to a worst case, it can be taken off and brought to a machine shop.

I have used screw extractors in the past, but they seem to be too long and flex a lot and then they break, is there something out there that can be turned with an impact?
Thanks.

 

[acetomatoco]

you may be able to drill a hole right thru it and use a screw extractor without too much trouble.. Secondly, you need a washer on the bolt holding the alternator in the adjustment bracket.. some folks are able to burn them out and rethread the hole..., or weld a smaller bolt to the stub and heat it a little and back it right out... too

 

[cranetruck]

There is a washer present, just not a very large one.
I'm soaking the broken bolt with a penetrant while I'm considering my options.....

 

[clinto]

Bjorn, SnapOn used to make an extractor that was splined. You drilled the offending fastener out in the center, then beat the splined end in with a hammer, then turned it out with your chpice of ratchet, impact, etc.

I just looked on their website and did not see it. Perhaps one of the major tool vendors offers a similar version.....OTC, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, S-K, etc.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I had 2 snap off in the front hub of the M108. They were easily backed out with a punch. I have no clue why the bolts broke.

 

[cranetruck]

A punch, that's an idea, at least it may loosen it up.

Thanks Clinto, I have to watch that "beating it in with a hammer" thing, it's a grade 5 in a casting. Water pumps for the dash two don't exactly grow on trees...

 

[doghead]

Re: RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please

Bjorn, SnapOn used to make an extractor that was splined. You drilled the offending fastener out in the center, then beat the splined end in with a hammer, then turned it out with your chpice of ratchet, impact, etc.

I just looked on their website and did not see it. Perhaps one of the major tool vendors offers a similar version.....OTC, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, S-K, etc.

I have used this style of extractor with good success http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1262&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
I believe Hanson actually makes the Snap-On set.

From what I see in the picture, If you have a wire feed welder you could try to hold a nut over the broken bolt and weld it on (through the internal nut threads)
Any shock or heat cycles you can apply to the broken bolt should help also.

I really like the idea of using left handed drill bits also!

 

[Jones]

Bjorn, Looks like you can get a good shot at it with the belts loosened and the alternator swung out of the way.
I began using left-hand twist drills a while back with pretty good success. Start by making sure the broken bolt end is as flat as it cen be. Next, punch a center mark to make sure the drill doesn't wander. Drilling with increasing dia. drills sneaks up on it and gives you control over wandering off and getting into the threads, and taking the center out weakens it's grip on the threads. Next, at some point the drill is bound to grab and when it does, siince it's turning the same direction the bolt would unscrew, it'll spin the broken piece right out. Remember the two broken pressure plate bolts we took out of your flywheel while we were doing the rear main seal job?
Even if you use the regular Easy-Out or similar extractor, it's best to drill all the way through to the bottom of the broken piece, allowing it to "collapse" and release it's grip on the threads.

 

[cranetruck]

I like that Leonard. That's what you used on my flywheel wasn't it? I know it worked like a charm.

 

[poppop]

RE: Re: RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please

If you can get to it easily, I have used my small wire welder to very carefully build up the center of the bolt. Than place a nut over that and weld it. The heat usually lossens it up and it comes out.

 

[cranetruck]

Re: RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please

....
From what I see in the picture, If you have a wire feed welder you could try to hold a nut over the broken bolt and weld it on (through the internal nut threads)
Any shock or heat cycles you can apply to the broken bolt should help also.

Also a good idea.

 

[ATC]

RE: Re: RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please

I vote for an Easy-out. Also, it's helpful to get a reverse-rotation drill-bit (one that cuts while spinning counter-clockwise). Sometimes the bolt will work it's way out when using the reverse drill-bit so you don't even need to use the Easy-out.

 

[cbvet]

RE: Re: RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please

I've had good lock with the special left-hand drill bits sold by Sears. They come 3 sizes to a set.
Eric
CBVET

 

[alphadeltaromeo]

RE: Re: RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please

I'm learning from all the ideas here as well...thanks for the input, even though it's not my problem

 

[Scrounger]

I had two bolts break like that in one of the 818’s. A friend showed me a neat “trick” to remove broken bolts. He took an acetylene torch, the kind that runs off a B tank and heated the bolt. Then he took a candle and stuck it up against the broken bolt. The wax was drawn into the threads. He did that three times then used a chisel with and angled blade to tap the bolt out.

 

[WillWagner]

Bjorn, stay away from the fluted SnapOn things, unless you like to use a die grinder and/or have access to a laser cutter. I'll give you the set I have. They are not so good. Jones is right. The LH drills work great. I'd try that 1st. Start small and work your way up. The heat generated by the drill usually will help loosen the broken item, then the bit will grab, unscrewing the offending bolt.

 

[ARMYMAN30YearsPlus]

Bjorn:
This tread should be a sticky. I have used just about all of the ways mentioned here and agree on taking your time to drill it out all the way down as big as you can without knarling the treads. I have had a few of the wide flat snap on extractors break because they have a wide base. I like them because they have a hex head but once one is broken it is a harder task to finish. I have hundreds of drill bits in my toolbox but not one with left hand threads, with my luck if I bought a set they would be tossed in the drill drawer and not be found again until they heald my estate sale.

 

[Cdub]

I have a full set of these from Snap-On from my auto body days and they
have brought me much success........

Good luck

C'dub

 

[jimk]

I have the blue point ones, like above. They don't always work well. Most are now stripped. One thing to keep in mind once the tension is off the treads it often turns easier, sometimes (often) finger tight. Bottomed out and cross threaded are exceptions. I have good luck with Lloyd S's suggestion, MIG welding a nut on the end. Sometimes have to do it 10 times. Easy outs always work good but don't put too much T on them as if they break inside you'll have a 60 Rockwell C plug to cut into. Very nasty. I always spend extra time on the set up and make the first try the best. I often use heat, if needed, and a lot of it, as it can expand the joint.JimK

p.s. looking at that second photo - try a small sharp cape chisel on one edge, or a cold chisel across the face turning it a bit after the v is in impressed in middle. Subsequent impacts, a few degrees offset, act like an impact hammer.

 

[Scrounger]

Thanks jimk I couldn't think of the name cape chisel earlier for taking out a broken bolt.