Good source for U Joint fir M1088

[Reworked LMTV]

I'm looking for ujoints for my m1088. I got my truck out of the driveway and down the road for the first time yesterday. Sounds like there is a rotational sound at various speeds. The nameplate does have the "D" on it. I friend thought it might be U joints.

Does anyone know a good source for them or know if the military part number crosses to another part?

 

[doghead]

What's the military part number?

 

[NDT]

Driveline racket is very likely coming from wheel end spider gears with excessive lash. There is a thread here on adjusting this. Also check the hub lube level.

 

[TNriverjet]

There's some u joint info around posts 98-104 in this thread.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...up-and-Build&p=1873355&viewfull=1#post1873355

However, I agree with the need to check the hubs first. There is a spider gear reduction setup in there that need gear oil. They can also get out of adjustment and have a "clatter" sound at certain speeds.


Ask me how I know... There's a lot of info here in other threads on how to adjust the gear lash. The shim packs are cheap on the large auction site.

 

[Suprman]

R279X is the U joint they are widely available. Get under the truck with some gloves on. Grab a driveshaft and shake hard feel for play especially in the slip joint. Do both. If you can feel ANY play then its too much wear and something needs to be replaced. No highway driving till its fixed.

 

[coachgeo]

I'm looking for ...?

For future reference .... there is a sticky on top of this forum that has an updated and growing list of part numbers and where to get them. Granted it is only as good as members here make it by PMing part info they discover about parts not on the list to simp5782 .

 

[Reworked LMTV]

For future reference .... there is a sticky on top of this forum that has an updated and growing list of part numbers and where to get them. Granted it is only as good as members here make it by PMing part info they discover about parts not on the list to simp5782 .

Ah ok, thanks!

 

[Reworked LMTV]

R279X is the U joint they are widely available. Get under the truck with some gloves on. Grab a driveshaft and shake hard feel for play especially in the slip joint. Do both. If you can feel ANY play then its too much wear and something needs to be replaced. No highway driving till its fixed.

Thanks Suprman! You are always a great source of information.

 

[Awesomeness]

R279X is the U joint they are widely available. Get under the truck with some gloves on. Grab a driveshaft and shake hard feel for play especially in the slip joint. Do both. If you can feel ANY play then its too much wear and something needs to be replaced. No highway driving till its fixed.

Is that the number for all 4 joints, front shaft and rear?

 

[Suprman]

Yes

 

[Pointman0853]

I can verify this, as I just bought a pair locally. The Meritor number is M-279. Should run you around $48.00 ea.

Pointman

 

[Reworked LMTV]

paid $30 each for 6 on Ebay

 

[m-35tom]

just make sure they are US made, the china ones break.

 

[Awesomeness]

just make sure they are US made, the china ones break.

The Neapco joints (listed in my spreadsheet, here in my signature) are the best I've found so far. High quality, made in the USA, and come with the safety tab locking plates to make sure they won't accidentally vibrate loose. Great stuff.

 

[simp5782]

Anyone would be fine with any of the name brand joints in that 1610 series as they are pretty light duty joints made to just about the same spec. Moog #P333, Spicer 5-279X, Traction HD5279X, Meritor CP16N, Borg Warner 114-516. Meritor makes a M279X joint that has a 100,000 mile lube interval for those of you who wish to install and forget about it.

Even the name brand Made in America parts can be shotty. I had a Meritor 92 Series joint that had a cap explode because their machine apparently did not drill a hole all the way thru on the grease passage to the center X. Unfortunately 92 series joints have banded end caps so you can't remove them and inspect them prior to install. I had to send it off to meritor for inspection and to get a check for the damage it caused. Machines make mistakes to even on a $300 u joint