Got Gen 1 Light!

[stationjj]

I finally got a Gen 1 light today. I have learned No gen lights at start up, then the gen isn't working.

This is very exciting for me. For you experts not so much.

I have been fighting the Gen 1 not charging properly for months. My volt meter has allows been between yellow and green. It never showed a solid green reading. As new a new CUCV owner I accepted this as OK. By accident one day after pulling to much from the front battery It was dead. I got stranded, and AAA bailed me out.

I went through the TMs, and read many posts on the SS site. I cleaned connections, Rebuilt Gen 1, and traced wiring. The Gen 1 light still won't come on.

With my limited knowledge on auto electrical I had to call for help. The auto mechanic verified the connections, but we knew Gen 1 wasn't charging correctly. With only 12.24 volts at the battery with Engine running.

My help discovered that the bulb connector wasn't making a good firm contact with the dash cluster thin circuit sheet.
I thought it was making a good solid connection. The connection seemed to be solid to me. I was wrong. we had to pry the brass connectors on the bulb connector outwards.

We got dash cluster back in we get Gen 1 and 2 lights on every turn of the key.

This is exciting to me as a CUCV owner with no prior auto mechanic knowledge. It verified I was on the right track, and I am understanding how the CUCV works. I needed a second opinion that saw something I completely overlooked.

Oddly I found myself helping my mechanic understand how the CUCV electrical works.
In the end I am slowly learning and understanding the CUCV. I am still learning, but I have come a long way in 7 months. I by no means an expert now!

I want to thank everyone on the SteelSoldiers Site for the help and advice I have gotten!!
Please bear with me on my future post. I am slowly understanding.

stationjj

 

[Warthog]

That's what it is all about. Learning as you go.

Good job.

I didn't know squat about CUCVs until 4 years ago when I picked up a M1009 for a fellow SS member.

 

[Skinny]

Oddly I found myself helping my mechanic understand how the CUCV electrical works.

That is scary. The more seat time you get with your rig the more you will become familiar with working on it. I have 13 years experience in the field but had zero time fixing diesels. Once you do your research and dive right in, these things are very easy to work on. Lots of knowledge to be had on the SS forum.

Congrats on your repair!

 

[stationjj]

Skinny,

From your quote. It is scary! The mechanic help worked with me on the issue.

I try and spend as much seat time as I can with the CUCV. I want to learn to fix myself, but it's a learning process.

The problem with me is that I don't have any prior mechanical training.

My mechanic and I reviewed a few posts from SS I had bookmarked. This is what I meant by helping my mechanic. The posts helped him better understand the CUCV electrical system.
I provided the guidance and what I understood from SS.

This post; http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?90567-Gen-1-exciter-wire-and-dash-light

This post started us in the right direction. Thanks!

stationjj

 

[ThunderCracker]

Good news my friend! Does your volt meter show in the green now?

 

[kcbbqguru]

Good news my friend! Does your volt meter show in the green now?

Question? Does the volt meter in the dash show the amount in the batteries? or the chargering system, I was had a bad battery and replaced both with group 31 batteries and now the volt meter shows in the green?

 

[Warthog]

Question? Does the volt meter in the dash show the amount in the batteries? or the chargering system, I was had a bad battery and replaced both with group 31 batteries and now the volt meter shows in the green?

With the key in the run position, engine off, the voltmeter relay is engaged and will show battery voltage. Usuall in the lower green with fully charged batteries.

When the engine is running it will show alternator output. Should be in the middle to upper green.

The voltmeters are just a guess. Too many variables to get a true reading. Dirty connections, resistor values changing, etc. Just use it as a guide.

 

[toyrunner95]

i had a run in with the infamous dash gauge. on my gauge there is a small section that has a larger white part. if the needle is not in that little area, the batteries are charging. so green is just a relitive condition, charging is another matter.

 

[cuffnstuff]

Well, been working on my m1010, and reading the forums. The front battery is not charging, and the gen 1 and gen 2 lights have been completely removed (found that out after I pulled the dash apart) by the police department that owned the truck prior to me getting it. I am getting 15 volts on the rear battery, so assume that is good; front is not getting anything, but the gauge the PD put in shows a good charge rate. Not sure where to even begin to find the problem; and not sure which generator charges which battery; looked for it in the forums, and found it once, but can't seem to locate it. Any help would be appreciated.... I am not even sure what diodes are, or where they are or how to test them; I am new to the world of m1010's.

 

[richingalveston]

are you sure you do not have a 12 volt truck, I looked at a cucv my PD had for sale but passed becasue it was a rust bucket and the electrical system was hacked up.
drivers alt charges front and passenger alt charges back. front batt should be 12 volt and back should be 24.

 

[Warthog]

Cuffnstuff your M1010 is a totally different animal. The stock charging system is NOT like the other CUCVs. You need to start a new thread for your issue.

 

[cuffnstuff]

Thanks: learning just how much of an animal it is!

 

[stationjj]

Update and Plan.

I finally get a consistent Gen 1 light, but I am still getting a inconsistent voltage reading. Both Gens are good.

Last week I did a 200 mile road trip to verify I got periodic power lose issue fix. Yes I did fix power lose issue. The voltage showed between yellow and green. Sometimes I got good reading. This past weekend as the Temps dropped I started the CUCV after sitting a few days and let it idle for 5-10 minutes. Several times I got a good solid green reading.

Then today I drove the CUCV 10 miles and the voltage read between yellow and green.

I am not mechanic, but my take from this I am loosing voltage between Gen 1 and battery. Wiring issue I think? I figure driving rattles some connection loose?

My plan is too have second person retrace wiring with me again. I traced wires once before, but because I am not very knowledgeable or have any experience with electrical issues. I suspect that I have missed something!

I will target battery cables and ground wire. As a side note I cleaned the front power bus as suggested in the stickys.

Any thoughts or suggesting's

Thank You,

stationjj

 

[cpf240]

As was mentioned in another thread, have you checked the alt pulleys after driving around for a while? Are they hot, or is one much hotter than the other? Perhaps the belts are slipping at speed, even though they appear tight. The other poster chased the problem all over the place, believing that the belts were good to go, but they were slipping.

 

[stationjj]

cpf240,

Very good point concerning belts. I am chasing the problem all over the place.
I will check belt slipping. Belts seem tight to me with my knowledge.
Thank You for the suggestion.

stationjj

 

[Warthog]

And double check the ground wire on GEN1. This wire is often overlooked.

 

[stationjj]

Warthog,

Thanks. I will check Gen 1 ground wire.

Let me ask you about voltage gauge readings. Should I expect the voltage gauge to hit the white tick/marking on the gauge? Currently I am getting a good solid green reading, but not on the white tick/marking.

Currently I am leaning towards the theory that the belts are slipping. Today several times at idle I got a good reading. Then when I got on the interstate and picked up speed my reading stayed between yellow and green.

Thanks,

John

 

[cpf240]

JJ - Please keep in mind that these gauges are not precision instruments. There are too many factors that will play into how a gauge reads on any given CUCV, etc. Accuracy of the gauge itself, tolerance of the voltage divider resistor on the back of the gauge, resistance in the contacts at the connector, and any other connections throughout the charging system leading to the gauge.

What is "normal" for your truck may not be "normal" for any other truck.

Now, as for mine, I've measured good output from both my alts, yet my gauge reads just into the overcharge range. Since I measured the actual output of the alts, I know that is the "normal" gauge reading for *my* truck.

Granted, it shouldn't fluctuate as yours is, so you are right to pursue the cause, and I'm sure you will find any issues, and then know what is "normal" for your truck.

Happy hunting!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

JJ - Please keep in mind that these gauges are not precision instruments. There are too many factors that will play into how a gauge reads on any given CUCV, etc. Accuracy of the gauge itself, tolerance of the voltage divider resistor on the back of the gauge, resistance in the contacts at the connector, and any other connections throughout the charging system leading to the gauge.

What is "normal" for your truck may not be "normal" for any other truck.

Because of this, consider getting a cheap multimeter from the auto parts store, and temporarily (a few days) mounting it on your dashboard as a voltage gauge. Run good (new) wires out to the battery you're having trouble with. Make sure your connections are good for this.

That way you can see what's REALLY going on. It's possible the problem is with your gauge, not your charging system.

 

[stationjj]

cpf240,

That's the answer I was looking for thank You. With regard to the voltage gauge it is all relative from one CUCV to the next.

Your idea of belt slippage is looking good. I hope to start checking it out this weekend or early next week.

Thanks,

stationjj