Got the deuce home...have a couple of questions?

[ford381stroker]

300+ miles in a Deuce makes for an extrmemly long day. The seargant told me that the Deuce I purchased was from the base and was used by the maintenance dept. This thing started right up (with a jump) and sounds great. However...

1) While driving home every so often the motor would bog and it feels as if it had a huge load on the motor. Then after a few seconds the turbo would spool back up and it was back to normal. Why? How can I fix this? Is this something that happens on all Deuces?

2) After I got to Oklahoma City, I stopped for fuel and noticed an oil leak that was not present during the hours of idling and driving before. It is dripping straight out of a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing? The motor was spotless when I picked it up and after idling but after the hour+ driving on the interstate this started. I can't seem to trace where it is coming from on the motor. Any ideas?

3) Once I got to Tulsa I noticed the clutch starting to slip when shifted into gear. I imagine its the oil leaking down that is coming out of the bellhousing but don't know. When I got home and down shifted to second gear when coming off the interstate it gripped at first, but when I was sitting at the stop light for a minute and tried to take off it started slipping in 2nd through 4th.

4) I have been unable to get my front parking lights and the headlights on at the same time. 18 wheelers flashed their lights at me all night trying to allert me that I didn't have running lights on in the front. No matter which way I turn the switches I can't seem to get them to come on.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[WillWagner]

Read the 10 manual. It will familiarize you with all of the controls.
Oh yeah, welcome, congrats on the "new" truck, and

 

[saddamsnightmare]

July 12th, 2008.

Ford381stroker:

Congrats on the truck, see #1 & 2 above from Wesfolk..... Seems that your deuces automatic chassis oiler is working fairly well..... The rear main seals on these critters do seem to leak inordinately, but can be repaired... AND I don't know if the M35A3 ESP rebuilds even had the headlights and parking lights on at the same time..... I guarantee that the TACOM switch won't turn those two on togather (at least NOT on my deuce), so I guess you'll just have to get used to no marker lights on the front at night.
My big brown off is the rather weak illumination of the guages and the red color (great for saving night vision, poor for actually seeing them....), there are ways to recify that problem, but we oughta get togather with Saturn Surplus and see if there's some way to come up will more user friendly gauge light caps on a special run....
Read the 10,20 and 30 manuals (available here on site) and actually DO the maintenance, otherwise you may find the best of the deuces a very bad actor.... Pay particular care to the BRAKES, running gear, steering gear, and frame, do the lube, do the inspections, replace whatever needs to be replaced to maintain a safe truck....

Cheers,
You now have OD Disease......

Kyle F. McGrogan

1971 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 Wo/W "Saddam's Nightmare" Desert Storm and Vietnam Veteran Deuce
1968 Johnson Corp M105A2 Cargo Trailer
1967 Hercules MEP023A gas Gen-Set APU
1963 Swiss Army Cargo Unimog, S.404.114 MB (all the above started with this one !

 

[CliffW]

1. I'd say change the fuel filters.

2. Rear main seal.

3. Directly due to #2.

4. Unless you change the wiring the front parking lights will not come on with the headlights. To see if they work....with your headlights on, top lever turned completely clockwise....turn the left hand lever all the way counter-clockwise. Your headlights will go out and your parking lights will come on.

My deuce did the same thing I got about 70 miles in on the 400 mile trip home and stopped to eat and my rear main was leaking out the hole in the bell housing.

Went to started it and get back on the road and it would not start the starter had got oil in it. Pull started it and got her home.

I had never worked on any thing this big before now. So I know it is a little intimidating at first. But when you get started it is not that bad. I replaced the rear main seal and the clutches, pressure plate, throw out bearing and the pilot bearing. Got all of my stuff from Mike at www.odiron.com he will hook you right up. All of his stock is NEW not nos that could be 40 years old.

So welcome aboard. At the top of the web page you see resources click on it and you can down load all of the stuff you will ever need.

 

[Rattlehead]

Make sure your downdraft tube and passages are not blocked. If so, that could have led to crankcase pressure buildup which could have taken out the rear main seal.

The first thing that came to my mind on the intermittent loss of power is some crud floating around in your tank and blocking the pickup now and then. But do change your fuel filters as well.

 

[hndrsonj]

There is a better rear main seal OD IRON has them.

 

[devilman96]

Ford, Welcome to the hobby… Your rear main issues are something a lot of us have experienced right after picking up our new toys! First hand I know it’s quite frustrating!

Depending on what you want out of your truck I often suggest changing the clutch while you’re doing the rear main seal… Some guys do… Some guys don’t but there are some major differences between the older and newer clutch styles. The biggest being the newer design is more dependable, better balanced and heavier duty… Some more info and pics can be found here, this will at least give an idea of the two types! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....pic&t=4997&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=380

These parts are what you need… I also now have the clutch alignment tool for 2.5 ton in stock but don’t have them listed in the store… If you plan on doing this nudge me and I will get it posted for you ASAP. http://www.odiron.com/store/index.php?cPath=4_90

At a minimum you need a rear main seal and they are not all created equal… No matter whom you buy yours from DO NOT BUY A NOS (new old stock) seal… Unless you like doing the job twice! http://www.odiron.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=4_54&products_id=538

As mentioned… Change your filters… Air and fuel both are suspect in your engine bogging problem! http://www.odiron.com/store/index.php?cPath=4_57

It might also be worth draining the tank and having a look at the bottom… Make sure BEFORE doing this you in tank pump is working properly, if not once you drain the tank you will lose prime to the IP and not be able to get it running again. It’s another common deuce issue from old age, storage, etc!

Otherwise… Welcome to the hobby, don’t get discouraged, like Cliff said a lot of this stuff is common for storage trucks. My dad’s deuce is sitting at my shop waiting on my lazy butt to fix his rear main and clutch over the exact same issues!

 

[ford381stroker]

Here are the pictures. Let me know what you guys thinK!

Pic of me at the gas station. Ford Ranger is on the tow dolly and we are half way home at this point.

sitting in the driveway - its new resting place

Got it home and then decided to put the top on. It was folded up in the bed along with the braces. Top is torn in a couple of places and the black rubber tie downs are dry rotted and some are just missing. I will do some more looking but how does everyone tie down their tops?

 

[BKubu]

Very, very nice truck. Good luck with it!

 

[Pawnshop]

Nice truck, time to change your signature!

 

[neilhendrix]

Welcome aboard. Please keep us posted, with LOTS of pic progress. Us newer guys need all the help we can get.

 

[ford381stroker]

I copied the numbers off of the dash plate and looked at the sticky thread regarding identification numbers.

From what I am figuring, mine is a 70 model lot 5?

Stock# 2320-007-1616
Identification# 040-17171 0525-18672
Contract# DAAE 06-70-C-001

 

[KaiserM109]

My deuce did the same thing on the 500 mi. trip from Ft. Riley, KS to Denver, CO., including the clultch slipping. The next day after it cooled down (KS was 115 degrees!!) the clutch worked fine and I don't notice any more leaking, but I haven't been putting any serious miles on it, either.

I understand that the rear main seal can be pulled without messing with the main bearings or the oil pan. I see some advice about filters, breathers and replacement clutches in this thread that I think I will probably follow. I came close to walking out of the woods once already because of a bad clutch. The last thing I want to do is either try to change a deuce clutch in the woods or drag it home.

I just followed Devilman96's link to OD Iron. I will second his suggestion, based on my experience with other trucks offfroad. If you go to all the trouble of pulling the transmission to get to the seal, go the rest of the distance. Otherwise you might have to do it over again. As for me, I only ever plan to see that part of my truck ONCE!

 

[LibertyDeuce]

CONGRATS!!
Beautiful Truck. Looks like the model year is a 1971.

 

[timntrucks]

yes if you do go into it do it all or nothing. that leak might not bother you if you only drive it once a month TIm

 

[ford381stroker]

weird thing. I took it out today to the Auto Parts store and the bank and had no issues! Weird how it didn't do it today.

 

[oilcan]

Also, make sure the crankcase isn't overfilled. I like to run mine just a little shy of the full mark. The only time mine ever leaked on the clutch was when I had too much oil in it.