Gotta get movin and dont know what the problem is...

[badassissimo]

Ok, I bought a m1009 back in Feb. of 2010. I've been tinkering with it and finding parts while I wait for a paid vacation to just work on it day and night to get it working and have the body setup. Unfortuantely, the city of Ruston has deemed my truck inoperable due to registration and it not being operable. lol! Should I get it running by the 11th, it won' be towed, otherwise, I gotta waste about a bill to get it towed to a storage lot and wait to work on it.

The current problems as far as I can see is that the wiring must be wrong but I haven't got a clue where. I don't have a wait light come on for the alternators. I do have an oil light come on but the oil level is good? I do have a temperature light when I turn the key to start the engine but the coolant level is fine? The little wire going out to the radiator is attached.

This truck has started before when I test drove it and to the best of my knowledge it only needed alternators, their corresponding brackets and until I found it taped to the back of the engine, a wiring harness. Not sure what the problem is but I'm all for jerryrigging if it gets the truck ready for registration by Tuesday.

Side note: the alternators tested fine and the batteries were bought brand new today with full charge. Also, I have electric fans to put on but I haven't installed them yet. No wiring has been changed to add the fans. Please help and thank you for all advice! Here is my number if you would like to call or text:
(281) 961 1526.

I'm going to work on it some this afternoon between jobs, some tomorrow afternoon between jobs, and then Monday night and Tuesday morning. Plenty of time to work on it if the solution is ready. Thank you.

Nick

 

[drgreg]

I guess I would install the alts. and try to start it. I don't understand the need for electric fans.

 

[badassissimo]

I guess I would install the alts. and try to start it. I don't understand the need for electric fans.

The alternators are installed and wired up with the correct belts. Finding belts, brackets, and a fan to fit the new pulley was difficult and took about 10 months. lol

Instead of having a 20" fan 70 dollars later, I got two 14" for about 110. Should keep it cooler and if I ever did anyting to stress the engine, I'd have the cooling power.

But, when I turn the key, it just shows me the temp light and the oil light stays on. Is there some kind of reset for after changing the oil? I did do that back in Jan.

 

[drgreg]

I would have to check, but I think the idiot lights come on until it is started.

 

[Warthog]

Reading the -10 operators manual, the oil light will stay on until the engine is running and pressure builds up. The temp light will come on breifly while starting to check the bulb/circuit.

The GEN lights are required to charge the batteries. You can run the truck without the alternators working for a while. The only load is the solenoid on the injector pump.

I get it inspected, you just need to start it, have enough juice to run the headlights and brake lights.

I didn't look but have you posted pictures of what your wiring looks like? Have you checked to see if the GEN bulbs are in place and good?

 

[91W350]

Dr. Greg is correct, the oil light for sure comes on until oil pressure comes up. The low coolant light might be on a test circuit, I would have to go start one. The wait light is not for the alternators, it is the glow plug system. I would rather run a single aluminum or fiberglass flex fan than fight hanging and wiring two electric fans. The 6.2 trucks have a huge radiator and short of an engine problem, way more cooling than they need.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKlfVLRwgWU[/media]

 

[wallew]

OK, those go off AFTER you start the truck and it is running.

If you are not getting the two gen lights to come on you need to either check your wiring (my 2nd choice) or check the bulbs (you can swap the working ones from the oil light or other dash light that works). BTW I'm unaware of a temp light - oil pressure, ok. Wait light, water in fuel light, and two gen lights and a 4WD light, but no temp light.

It's all pretty simple. Make sure you have clean connections and a good ground.

 

[badassissimo]

Almost There?

OK, those go off AFTER you start the truck and it is running.

If you are not getting the two gen lights to come on you need to either check your wiring (my 2nd choice) or check the bulbs (you can swap the working ones from the oil light or other dash light that works). BTW I'm unaware of a temp light - oil pressure, ok. Wait light, water in fuel light, and two gen lights and a 4WD light, but no temp light.

It's all pretty simple. Make sure you have clean connections and a good ground.

Sounds good. I evidently got off quite a bit later than expected today so it'll happen tomorrow. Anyone know the bulb type? Is it the 1156 or whatever for the tail light? Thanks.

Nick

 

[drgreg]

I'm confused, some gauge lamps are not going to keep the truck from running. Does it run?

 

[319]

Did this thing ever run while in your possession?

 

[jimmy-90]

Check your fuses as well. The gen 2 light,volt meter,and cigarette lighter plug are all fused together. I had that fuse blow and it caused the back battery to lose power over the course of a couple days and eventually not start. If you have a blown fuse then you can use that to start tracking down your issue.

 

[badassissimo]

fuses/bulbs

I'll check the bulbs and fuses tomorrow afternoon.

This truck was running and moving when I test drove it on the lot. At that time, no alternators were installed. I'll try to see if I can start it tomorrow after unplugging the alternators. Then I'll check the bulbs and then the fuses. With any luck, it'll start within an hour. I'll hopefully post that around 1 or 3 at the latest tomorrow.

Thank you all for the advice thus far. I'm hoping its the cure. Most everything I've found here is. We'll know more tomorrow.

Nick

 

[topgun217]

If your truck has sat for a while, I'd check and clean the battery terminals and their wires and the grounds. 319 can tell I had a heck of a head ache with mine until he suggested that. I ended up going to NAPA and getting new battery term. wire and connectors, both olds ones had cracked/broke. I hope you issue is that simple.....I also cleaned the starter connections.

 

[badassissimo]

bulbs/fuses check

All the bulbs and fuses look fine. I'm not sure how to get the gen bulbs to light or where the wiring is to see if current is flowing through the dash in that area. Any advice?

I tried starting the truck with the alternators unplugged and it didnt work. I took a pic of the wiring leads on either side as well as the fuses box and something hanging down from the dash as well as the dash guages with the key in accessory and not.

Just gotta get the pics of my camera.

Nick

 

[badassissimo]

Almost forgot, the one that does light up was put in the slots for the gen1 and 2 and 4x4 (Dont think 4x4 was "on" though). The other bulbs worked in the oil light slot too. All bulbs work to the best of my knowledge but not all slots.

 

[badassissimo]

some pictures and findings

Two or three more

 

[badassissimo]

more pics

last two.

I pulled the fuse box. didnt see anything wrong. I cleaned the plastic wire board behind the guages and as far as I know everything has good connection.

Is there maybe a problem with the alternators themselves? Is there a specific wire I should replace at this point? The dash is taken apart so i can get to everything if I know what to get after.

Nick

 

[eme411]

Hi There, seeing your photos I suggest you clean all your connections and use DIELECTRIC grease on all ,check to see that you have the correct alternators 27SI 100 amp with isolated ground on pass side , driver's side does not , get your self a set of TM's read them and use them, keep your truck stock , that makes it easier for you and the next guy and anyone that wants to help you , if all else fails take to a GOOD auto electric shop that is a member of the electrical rebuilders exchange and have him dig out his March 2007 issue, the last thing is ALL CUCV trucks should have a block heater , this is a great backup for a bad glow system , you can plug the truck in and it will start once the engine temp comes up , this is something the trucks in the snow belt should all have , it's easier on the truck and it will start 24/7, hope all this helps
regards

 

[319]

Does the engine turn? If not, start by fully charging the batteries. If it does, then look at your glow plug system or fuel system. But best advice is to read the troubleshooting section in the TMs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bad, missing, or disconnected alternators will not prevent the truck from starting, but dead batteries will.

 

[badassissimo]

engine turn

Ok... Not sure what happenned but the generator lights still dont come on. The two wait lights do come on. A seatbelt sign comes on and goes off. Some reason the wait lights that came on come off like they should and I can start the engine now. I'M EXCITED! However. I don't understand what went right or wrong other than maybe the wires going through the firewall are on correctly now. Well, on to the headlights and blinkers if the engine is going to act right. Didn't know the accelerator is collapsed so I'll look at that sometime.

Just in case, do the generator lights need to come on for anything or are the wait lights good enough? Either way, I'll probably rewire the firewall if I get some time when this is over so I don't have to worry about faulty failures like wires pulling out of place if that was the case. Thanks again all and feel free to send advice.

Nick