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GovPlanet Humvee Arrival and Inspection

Coug

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you are better off having a shop do the recovery. A lot less chance of getting any air into the system for starter.

When I did my system, the listing on ebay for the receiver dryer showed a red dot number as well as another part number for a different brand.

As for the fill level, Retired War Horses recommends doing 3.5 lbs of refrigerant into the system.
Yes, I know the sticker on the evaporator says 4 lbs, but it actually says 4 lbs MAX charge, not 4 lbs recommended.
 

jake20

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So good and bad news. I found a leak as soon as I went to test the AC and add more refrigerant. The high side charge port seems to not be properly sealing with the little ball in there. Anyone got a reference on that entire U shaped fitting assembly? May have to call red dot again but it’s not even in the schematic they sent me.

I can say that the system was certainly cooling with whatever charge I put in, temp gun indicated around 45f from the evaporator while outside air was about 60. Need to add more charge but this leak needs to be fixed prior to that.

You can see tiny bubbles in the video:
 

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jake20

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I was able to find the low side charge fitting in the catalog that @Coug sent, but need to do some more digging as I couldn’t find the high side. They’ve got too many fittings lol.

I think I should be fine with re-using my pressure sensor on the U shaped assembly, will dig a bit more and call red dot Monday if I can’t locate it.
 

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Coug

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I was able to find the low side charge fitting in the catalog that @Coug sent, but need to do some more digging as I couldn’t find the high side. They’ve got too many fittings lol.

I think I should be fine with re-using my pressure sensor on the U shaped assembly, will dig a bit more and call red dot Monday if I can’t locate it.

on my red dot unit, the high side port was a standard thread in GM high side port. Just threads onto that brass fitting.

just make sure you lubricate the O-ring with the SP-15 so you don't damage it during install.

99% sure it's the one below, as I only remember ordering one and this is in my purchase history for that time period.

 
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jake20

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Coug

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very cheap part, you can probably find one at your local auto parts store, or maybe if you take it in to have the refrigerant "properly recovered" they might even have them on hand if you don't want to order one and wait.

apparently uses some type of 8 point socket. I can't recall but I probably used either an open end wrench or a crescent (open ended adjustable wrench) with smooth surfaces on the jaws (some have serrated edges for better grip)
 

jake20

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Yea was gonna call a few shops and maybe we can recover the refrigerant from both trucks, change the valves, and just have them charge the systems while we’re there anyway. Those R134 cans can be a pita with the can tap sometimes as well. Might as well replace the low side schrader valves too.
 
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Retiredwarhorses

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I can confirm for 100% now that my wiper extensions were the press fit style. Just yanked them using the claw end of a hammer. To anyone that does this, make sure your hammer or extension doesn’t go flying anywhere including your radiator, they’re on there tight.
they aren’t press fit, they are held on with blue locktite, that version has no set screw.
there are several variants based on what Glass is installed and in what truck. I remove probably a set every other day, but on that version, it’s 50/50 you get them off without destroying the pivot…better odds on the set screw version.
I’ve got that version brand new in the box with install instructions and the box includes the blue locktite.
I use a propane torch and some patience
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Yea was gonna call a few shops and maybe we can recover the refrigerant from both trucks, change the valves, and just have them charge the systems while we’re there anyway. Those R134 cans can be a pita with the can tap sometimes as well. Might as well replace the low side schrader valves too.
you must have a refrigerant recovery machine to recover the R134....
There is no way to charge your AC with the engine off, your compressor must be running and idle set at 1500rpm
 

jake20

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you must have a refrigerant recovery machine to recover the R134....
There is no way to charge your AC with the engine off, your compressor must be running and idle set at 1500rpm
This... worked perfectly. I got the high side fitting changed out finally, was able to charge the system and have no leaks. Air blows way colder than I would have ever expected it to. Charged with a total of 56oz (3.5lbs).

Thanks for the fitting reference! @Coug
 

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jake20

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Got around to finally changing my fried glow plugs and installing the block heater.

Of the 8 total plugs, 1 was easy to pull, 4 required the glow plug extraction tool I bought from Black Dog Customs, and 3 were easy but only because they had broken off inside a while ago. I got the glow plugs from HPG, they’re the German ones with the tapered tips if anyone wants to order the same ones. The tapering prevents them from getting very stuck / swelled in the future apparently, can see it in my pics.

Block heater was super easy except for 2 things:

1: Almost lost the freeze plug inside the block, luckily was able to reach it with my fingers and finish yanking it with vise grips. Just have to be careful when using a punch

2: Ended up stripping the threads on the block heater retention bolt, they literally require extremely minimal torque and I didn’t know this till it was too late. Luckily had another since I bought 2 kits for 2 trucks. The second time around, I didn’t even put the ratchet on the socket extension, just snugged it up by hand and it’s been holding tight

I checked my glow plug circuit with a 24V LED as well, the orange leads get full power while the wait light is on, and then pulse for a bit after the wait light turns off. I’m lead to believe that this is the proper operation, as long as they aren’t stuck full blast till the plugs fry.

Sidenote: HPG has one of the highest tiers of customer service I’ve ever seen, 100% recommend buying through them
 

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jake20

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Welp new item on the list of things to handle: I think my AC compressor clutch might be giving out, it squeaks until the vehicle has ran for 20-30 minutes and then calms down. Tried to see if I could find the clutch alone, but seems like the compressor just sells as a single unit. Anyone else encounter this with their compressors?

It's a Sanden U4312 unit, it only started squeaking recently after I charged and got the AC blowing real cold. It squeaks even with the AC off, and I can't just remove it for the winter either since it's part of the serpentine belt route. What I don't know is if the clutch/bearing gets its lubrication from the oil in the refrigerant, or if its separate, I'm leaning towards the latter.
 

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Maxjeep1

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Welp new item on the list of things to handle: I think my AC compressor clutch might be giving out, it squeaks until the vehicle has ran for 20-30 minutes and then calms down. Tried to see if I could find the clutch alone, but seems like the compressor just sells as a single unit. Anyone else encounter this with their compressors?

It's a Sanden U4312 unit, it only started squeaking recently after I charged and got the AC blowing real cold. It squeaks even with the AC off, and I can't just remove it for the winter either since it's part of the serpentine belt route. What I don't know is if the clutch/bearing gets its lubrication from the oil in the refrigerant, or if its separate, I'm leaning towards the latter.
Are you 100% sure it’s the compressor? I had a belt squeak that developed around 150 miles or so. I couldn’t find where it was coming from. Replaced the belt and squeak went away. 100 miles later it returned. I put a gates severe duty on it and 1,100 miles and I’m squeak free. I was getting ready to start throwing parts at it and I’m glad I didn’t. The belt that I got from Mac Motors had tight rolls in it from being stored and after several 100 miles bend were still in it and they didn’t have the cogged belt like the original one. I’m happy with my gates green belt.
 

jake20

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Are you 100% sure it’s the compressor? I had a belt squeak that developed around 150 miles or so. I couldn’t find where it was coming from. Replaced the belt and squeak went away. 100 miles later it returned. I put a gates severe duty on it and 1,100 miles and I’m squeak free. I was getting ready to start throwing parts at it and I’m glad I didn’t. The belt that I got from Mac Motors had tight rolls in it from being stored and after several 100 miles bend were still in it and they didn’t have the cogged belt like the original one. I’m happy with my gates green belt.
I’m about 90% certain but don’t have another belt to play with and test. Lemme see if I can source a different one and use that as a starting point.

I’m mainly going off the fact that it sounds too mechanical to be a belt squeak, and the sound is isolated very close to the compressor. But yeap lemme swap belts to be 100% sure, easy enough to start with.
 

Maxjeep1

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I’m about 90% certain but don’t have another belt to play with and test. Lemme see if I can source a different one and use that as a starting point.

I’m mainly going off the fact that it sounds too mechanical to be a belt squeak, and the sound is isolated very close to the compressor. But yeap lemme swap belts to be 100% sure, easy enough to start with.
Mine drove me nuts and I had several people listen to it and everyone thought it was coming from a different side. I even got a stethoscope and I couldn’t find it. This is what I ended up with. This was on my m1123A2 03382158-7552-4259-8001-FAF02777B162.jpeg
 

TNDRIVER

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I’m about 90% certain but don’t have another belt to play with and test. Lemme see if I can source a different one and use that as a starting point.

I’m mainly going off the fact that it sounds too mechanical to be a belt squeak, and the sound is isolated very close to the compressor. But yeap lemme swap belts to be 100% sure, easy enough to start with.
Squirt bottle of water.... squirt the belt under the pulley that you are hearing... between the belt and pulley. If the noise stops its the belt....My 2 cents......
 

Coug

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when my belt system was squeaking/squealing, it was the bolts holding the generator/power steering bracket were loose/sheared, causing the belt to be a little out of alignment.


Remove the belt and spin everything by hand. Should move relatively freely.
Can also try putting the belt on reversed from what it was, and see if that changes anything.

Squirt bottle with water or soapy water on the belt will also help eliminate it as a possibility, but that something isn't correct in the belt alignment, not necessarily that the belt itself is the problem. Could be the belt, but more likely something either alignment or failing bearings in a pulley.
 

jake20

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Thanks for all the suggestions, will give em a try soon here. I really hope it is the belt but I fear it isn't heh.

In other news, had a little mockup of a certain part cut out using acrylic and a water jet, checking fit and will proceed with a metal version soon. Some sneak peeks attached :p
 

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jake20

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Alright wow it might actually be the belt. I dripped some water while it was running and the squeak goes away for a few seconds.

I’ll try flipping the belt to go the other direction, if it persists I’ll try a different brand of belt. It just really sounded like an aggressive squeak to be the belt but I guess that’s how things go sometimes. Thank you all!
 
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