GP Relay - correct voltage?

[MarcusOReallyus]

I have a battery charger that I hooked them up to, slow charge, until it read "fully charged."

Tested the batteries with a voltmeter. Reads 12.5, fully charged.

That's bad. Fully charged should read (theoretically) 13.8v, and real world, still something in the high side of 13.4 or so.

12.5 fully charged predicted the load test failure.

 

[I_Publius]

I am keeping that one in the memory bank, for sure.

 

[2deuce]

Sounds to me like your batteries were marginal and the low voltage damaged the starter. That has happened to me. Low voltage means too high current(amps) and that fries starters. Now that you have new batteries, the new starter should spin that engine.

 

[I_Publius]

I tried the starter that I already had on it, and it would not turn. I replaced the starter with one that I have borrowed from an Oklahoma member and it is finally turning.

It started for about five seconds and then shutdown, again.

I am wondering now if it could be the glow plugs are fried, as well?

 

[I_Publius]

I just performed a continuity test, with the light tester, and each of the glow plugs seem to check out fine.

 

[I_Publius]

Well, I've done the following to try and remedy this truck not starting:
1. two new batteries
2. did a continuity test on the each GP, using a light tester. I did NOT unplug each connect, but just touched the tester to the metal exposed portion of the GP on each one. (Will that give an accurate test, or do I need to unplug each one in order to test correctly?)
3. Replaced the starter today with one that works. That caused the truck to turn over correctly and it did start, for about 5 seconds. (White smoke)

All of this being said, it sounds like the truck is ready to fire over now, but won't.

Next steps? Fuel?

I have a Racor spin on filter with the pump and clear bowl on the bottom. I see fuel and hear it when I press the pump button on the filter housing.

What do I start testing now?!

thanks in advance!

 

[doghead]

You need to unplug each glow plug to test it. Do not use a light, use an ohm meter and look for 1-3 ohm. This is clearly spelled out in the -20TM, under troubleshooting.

 

[I_Publius]

Yep...I guess we should delete the threads where people say to use the light test method. All of the advice people give confuses us newbies. One thread says one thing and another says something completely different.

Guess I'll stick to the manuals, even though I have a 12v.

thanks.

 

[I_Publius]

In fact, here is one of the threads that needs to be changed. Who can change that?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/content.php?2-CUCV-Wiki

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Troubleshooting Information
Note: Do not convert your CUCV to 12V else you will be totally on your own as no one will be able to help you! The 24V system works perfectly as is and is easy enough to work on as long as you follow the TM's!!!

Glow Plugs
Tools Required

Multi-Meter / test-light
Glow Plug Socket
3' piece of wire, with ends stripped


Remove a wire from a glow plug. Have a helper turn on the key, and check for voltage between the glow plug wire and ground.
If voltage present, use a test light and hook the end to the tip of the glow plug while its still in the engine. With the other end of the test light, touch positive. If test light lights up the glow plug is good. Do this for each 8 glow plugs.
If no voltage continue....

 

[doghead]

You can tell with a light that it has resistance. You can not tell how much with a light.

It needs to be within spec. That requires a meter.

 

[I_Publius]

I found the troubleshooting instructions in TM -20, as you said.

It is found on Change 3, 2-13, Item #8 in Table 2-1. Unit Level Preventive Maintenance Checks and Services for CUCV.

a. Disconnect each glow plug lead and check for resistance between glow plug terminal and ground. Resistance should be 1-3 ohms. Check glow plugs for looseness or damage. Tighten glow plugs to 10 ft lbs (14 N.m).

 

[I_Publius]

Regarding the ohms, i'm going to assume that a higher reading on the GP (seated in the manifold) is NOT a good thing. What would cause them the read higher?

 

[I_Publius]

Ok....I just replaced the glow plugs with new ones. Tried starting it...NOTHING!!!!!

i may have run down the new batteries I just put in yesterday.

If this doesn't work, I GIVE UP!!!!!!!!

 

[I_Publius]

Batteries new and fully charged, per my charger.
Starter working fast, well.
New GP's.
power to GP relay

Not starting.

I'm wondering if it is a fuel issue?

I replaced the pump a couple of weeks ago. Did not bleed the air out. It started and ran fine, but has not since then.

Possibility?

I was hoping i could just use the raycor pump and pull the fuel through.

How would i bleed the air out with this type of fuel filter set up? Open the drain on the bottom?

 

[I_Publius]

Raycor spin on fuel filter - bleeding air out of system? (Troubleshooting)

I am changing threads on an ongoing issue, as I have gone through and corrected the electrical issues, I believe..I hope..I pray!!!

Question is whether or not the process for bleeding the air out of the fuel line is the same with a Raycor spin on fuel filter or not?

Here is the last post from my last thread. Can anyone give me tips on bleeding the air out? I didn't see anything in the TM on how to do this with the Raycor.

Thanks in advance and Happy Thanksgiving!

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?116112-GP-Relay-correct-voltage/page6

Batteries new and fully charged, per my charger.
Starter working fast, well.
New GP's.
power to GP relay

Not starting.

I'm wondering if it is a fuel issue?

I replaced the pump a couple of weeks ago. Did not bleed the air out. It started and ran fine, but has not since then.

Possibility?

I was hoping i could just use the raycor pump and pull the fuel through.

How would i bleed the air out with this type of fuel filter set up? Open the drain on the bottom?

 

[doghead]

Do not start a new thread when all the pertinent information is in this one.

Continue one thread until you problem is solved.

 

[doghead]

Looking at the pic you posted here, http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?110614-Racor-fuel-filter-R45s&highlight= , you need to install a petcock on you housing(top) to bleed the air out.

 

[I_Publius]

Understood. I was unsure about doing so, which is why I included the link. Thanks for the proper etiquette.

 

[I_Publius]

a petcock...sounds easy to do...never done it, but I'll bet I can.....

Pick it up at a diesel store or a marine shop?

thanks, btw....

 

[doghead]

Lowes, Home Depot, Napa, Auto Zone, etc.