GP Removal Question

[48cj2a]

Just went though the painstaking trouble of drilling out and extracting a broken GP in a 6.2.

Looking at the rest they are pretty rusty and tried to remove the next one but it feels like it could snap as well.

Is there any tricks to getting these out that are rusted in without breaking them off. I hate to have to drill everyone of these out but feel I should probably address them now while its on a stand rather then have to do it down the road later when its installed in the CUCV.

Also what is the thread tap size of these GP holes. The GP I installed did not thread in as easy as it came out of the other head so I'd like to chase the threads and make sure I did not bugger them with the drill bit.

 

[Warthog]

I would hit them with PB Blaster multiple times and use some heat in between.

Also try tightening them slightly to break the rust bond. An old-timer taught me that years ago.

I will have to check the thread size

 

[doghead]

A quick search for "glow thread size" came up with this thread, and several others...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/31462-stuck-glow-plug.html

 

[The G Man]

Matco tools used to sell nut a glowplug removal tool. I have used mine for about 11 years now and really like it. I has a split nut assembly. When you unthread the glowplug you place the split(hinged nut ) on its thread then you hold the nut shut with a wrench and turn the glowplug. It pulls straight out. It also has spacers you you can put them uner the nut to keep applying a straight pull out on the nut. It really works well and has prevented me from pulling alot of injectors out to clean pieces. I found them on ebay but the link here is alot cheaper. Warthog had great advice above also.

Hope this helps , here is the link to the tool: Diesel Engine Glow Plug Removal Tool OTC 6005

 

[Dave Kay]

As I understand this, you have gp's that are rusted solid into the head? If that's the case then Dude--- you had better soak those gp threads with penetration oil for about a week before YOU DO bugger-up the threads trying to drill out broken stubs... yikes!

How about pulling the injectors? That way you could at least get some oil on the inside of those GP threads before you try extracting... this sounds like a tough nut.

 

[Dave Kay]

BTW; if you DO get those plugs to move without wreaking your heads, here's 'The Ticket' when it comes to pulling swollen GP's. When I did mine, 4 were seriously stuck/swelled and I was getting ready for some serious headaches. But I found this guy's puller (from another SS thread) and BOY---- did it work like a charm! Didn't break one gp and I did the job in about 30 mins. Hope this helps. Check it out;

(ooops! I see Mr. Doghead was one thread ahead of me----dittos!)

 

[48cj2a]

Fella's, Thanks for all the posts but yes they are rusted in not swollen so the puller will not work in this case.

I hit them a few times tonight with PB Blaster and I'll soak them some more. Was hoping to get these swapped out so I can get the engine installed during my 5 day Holiday break.

Another problem is I don't have Oxy/Acet set and I don't think a propane soldering torch will get hot enough.

Don't suppose a cycling of the GPs would help with the heat process would it. I could cycle/arc them with a battery one at a time.

 

[salt6]

I've been struggling for about a week trying to get the lower A arm off of my M151. The large rear 3/4 bolt just would not move. Tried heating and cooling followed by PB Blaster. While I was reading up on this I found this;

The Freeze-Off Super Penetrant By CRC is a unique formula that uses freeze-shock-action to immediately drops the temperature of the area in direct contact with the spray. The freezing effect cracks rusted surfaces, allowing Freeze-Off Super Penetrant to reach deeper and work more effectively than other penetrates on the market. The Freeze-Off Super Penetrant helps loosen rusted and corroded nuts, bolts, hinges, frozen locks, couplings, fittings, etc! Perfect for automobiles, boats, watersports equipment, household items, tools, agricultural equipment, sporting goods, pipes and plumbing fixtures. Contains 11.5 oz.

Features:

1. Uses Freeze-Shock-Action To Immediately Drops The Temperature
   Reach Deeper and Work More Effectively Than Other Penetrates
   Loosens Rusted and Corroded Nuts, Bolts, Couplings, Fittings and Frozen Locks
   Specially Formulated To Dissolve Rust, Gums and Corrosion
   Lubricating Film Prevents Corrosion and Displaces Water

AutoBarn
Freeze-Off Super Penetrant 11.5 oz. - CRC05002
Could have been a combination of all the things I tried but 10 mins after I started using this the bolt was out.
salt

 

[Dave Kay]

Fella's, Thanks for all the posts but yes they are rusted in not swollen so the puller will not work in this case.

I hit them a few times tonight with PB Blaster and I'll soak them some more. Was hoping to get these swapped out so I can get the engine installed during my 5 day Holiday break.

Another problem is I don't have Oxy/Acet set and I don't think a propane soldering torch will get hot enough.

Don't suppose a cycling of the GPs would help with the heat process would it. I could cycle/arc them with a battery one at a time.

Well if rusted-stuck is your first problem then I'd just keep soaking them dogies and like Warthog said, do a little tighten then loosen action to see if they'll wink. A few probably will.

Cycling the gp system might not be advisable but that's just me 'cause I'd be afraid of making more probs fer myself.

Otherwise, I don't see what a 5-sec arc would hurt on a single plug, then cross yer fingers and give gp a twist. But I would caution that a fire extinguisher might be kept handy in case the penetrating lube wants to ignite... good luck to ya' buddy and keep us posted.

Wishing a Happy Thanksgiving to all!

 

[48cj2a]

I did a quick google search and my local O'Reillys carries CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant so I will get a can in the morning and give it a try.

Yes the tap does not seem to be common, Just checked my small metric set and it has M10 but not the 1.0.

Hopefully they have the 10X1.0 metric taps as well.

 

[The G Man]

BTW; if you DO get those plugs to move without wreaking your heads, here's 'The Ticket' when it comes to pulling swollen GP's. When I did mine, 4 were seriously stuck/swelled and I was getting ready for some serious headaches. But I found this guy's puller (from another SS thread) and BOY---- did it work like a charm! Didn't break one gp and I did the job in about 30 mins. Hope this helps. Check it out;

(ooops! I see Mr. Doghead was one thread ahead of me----dittos!)

Dave,

This extractor is sweet. I have never used this kind but I am gonna pick one up. Looks like its alot better than the type I use and posted here earlier

 

[JAsher45]

the ones that i have had to deal with that were known to be seized into the head.... some one forgot anti-seize.... i have a cordless 1/4 drive impact and use that to shock them loose... if they break off like you are dealing with just get the left hand cobolt drill bits and extractors.... painful process but not many options

 

[48cj2a]

I did a quick google search and my local O'Reillys carries CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant so I will get a can in the morning and give it a try.

Yes the tap does not seem to be common, Just checked my small metric set and it has M10 but not the 1.0.

Hopefully they have the 10X1.0 metric taps as well.

Went to several places today including HArbor Freight, Tractor Supply, Farm & Fleet, O'Reillys, Advanced Auto Parts, Fastenal and ended up finding the tap in stock at Car Quest for $7.03 w/tax

Got the CRC Freeze-Off at O'Reilly's for 4.99

Sprayed down the remaining three on the left bank several times and snapped off #3; #5 and 7 backed out after a few tighten and loosening sequences.

Began drilling #3 for extraction and ended up snapping off my good Snap-On 1/4" extractor. Tried welding 6 nuts to the GP and each twisted off.

So now I'll back to square one with a broken extractor in the drilled GP. Any thoughts here?

 

[mf5129]

once you get them out use a anti seeze compound on the threads upon reinstall.itwill save a lot of future grief.

 

[48cj2a]

Got the remaining 6 GPs broke free and chased the treads in the first broken one. Made a big difference after chasing the threads.

Tried drilling the broken extractor with Cobalt bits and does not seem like its ever scratching it.

Anyone have any other ideas, I really do not want to pull this head to take to a welder or machine shop to extract.

If I have 7 functioning GPs is the eighth one going to make that much difference?

 

[dstang97]

some people have started the motor and sometimes they blow out. i would tap it into the pre chamber then fish it out.

 

[48cj2a]

I only drilled down until I hit powder so technically its still sealed. Should I just leave it alone or try and drive it in?

 

[ODdave]

Ditch the penetrates , the best / fastest rust breaker, muratic acid and a syringe. $5 a gallon and it goes a hello of a long ways.