H6054 is the correct headlight? What is the most OEM-looking assembly?

[nyvram]

One of the headlights is yellowed on our CUCV (the other looks fine) but upon closer inspection they are two different lenses.

I see prices ranging from $9 to $50 and up from Napa to Autozone..Amazon..etc. "Napa Light" is $9..Autozone sells a Sylvania model for $11...

If we are just looking for a good set that matches OEM (and won't yellow over time) what would you recommend?

Not looking for anything crazy..just want the lenses to put out good light and match but don't want to go too cheap and get something that will look bad in a year.

Would love a bulletproof assembly that will last another 30 years.

After having been looking for parts we can't seem to find anywhere..the headlights are the exact opposite problem..everyone and their dog sells a version of this lens so how do you know what's good and what's crap?

 

[tim292stro]

The issue with yellowing is the material. Get a glass-based fixture. Sylvania H6054 should be a glass reflector and lens, with a Halogen capsule inside for the filament.

If you're doing a bulb replaceable fixture, either Hella (I don't personally like these) or Cibie (these are my favorite, but are ECE/SAE-M only - your area may not allow these) with H4. Both are glass lens, with metal reflectors.

If you do either, run a relay kit to ensure that you are powering the bulbs with the whole system voltage - bulbs are designed to run at ~12.8V (with a do-not-exceed of 13.2V), if your alternator is putting out 14.4V to charge the battery, your wiring should only drop 8-9% of the voltage. If the bulb is getting only 11V or less, the light output will fall quickly below design spec and you'll be very unhappy with the light output. Measure at the bulb terminals with is partially plugged in, since unplugging it removes the load and stops the loaded voltage loss.


If buy into the cheap easy fix of buffing the fixture clear again, what you are doing is grinding off the outer UV burned face of the material - doing this does not re-introduce the UV stabilizer that has degraded. It will yellow again in a few months. Glass doesn't have this issue, but you have to be careful of rock strikes if you want your fixture to last.

 

[nyvram]

thank you! i had about decided to go with 'cheap, reliable glass sylvania' when you replied. sometimes you just want something simple and reliable.

 

[tim292stro]

Sylvania H6054 are cheap and fairly reliable, but I also like a good beam pattern.

A way of putting it is like the difference between a just out of boot camp infantry grunt who had never held a gun before enlisting shooting at the enemy vs. a 6-tour Marine Scout Sniper who had to kill dinner every week to feed his family as a kid killing the enemy. Sure you can say they both shoot at the enemy, but you can appreciate the quality difference and effectiveness in the kills I'm sure

The $11 H6054 Sylvania is your first deployment grunt, the $80 Cibie is your 6-tour sniper. Once you go E-Code, you never go back

 

[nyvram]

ok ok..one day maybe a $80 cibie is in the future. and i did buy the 'xtravision' version of the sylvania ($14 instead of $11) as it says it has a little better pattern.

that rockguard is cool (but not oem!) ..might not be a bad idea..

 

[rsh4364]

Even with stock headlights I would upgrade the headlight harness.

 

[tim292stro]

Indeed. Still want to measure that voltage drop, and then move the load out of the rest of the wire harness (yes it's not 100% stock, but it's less likely to overload the OEM wiring like it would when it left the factory).

...

that rockguard is cool (but not oem!) ..might not be a bad idea..

They are removable without tools, the mounting clips are screwed down with the retention ring for the headlight itself. You can just pull them off when you want to clean your headlights (which you do when you clean your windshield every time you fill up right?), or at shows.

 

[rsh4364]

Thanks for the rock guard tip Tim,Im gonna look for those.

 

[loosescrews]

I use the silverstar version of the h6054's, and redid the grounds on all lights. They throw light as good as my wifes '03 deville now. Proper aiming is key. I also have a set of "blinders" made of reflective stainless that cover the top half of the bulbs. They provide a more focused (height wise) beam, putting more light on the road instead of the trees. Ill grab a pic of them when I can for you.

 

[cucvrus]

LED' never leave home without them. Never updated a headlamp harness and the LED's draw less amps and provide twice the light without offending oncoming traffic. Direct plug in and by the time you buy the Chinese harness hack the wiring apart you are 1/2 way there so go the rest of the way and do the LED's. I ran the truck light H4's with the LED bulbs. Pretty good but these trump the HID's and the H4 with LED bulbs.

 

[rsh4364]

Love those LEDs,and will have a set as $ allows.And just to let you know the upgrade harness is completely plug and play,no cutting or butchering of factory harness at all.And it will improve lighting even with factory lights.Might just save a fuse box also.In fact after seeing yours I want a set for both 1009s and the 79 Malibu.!

 

[nyvram]

Can you point me to harness upgrade thread or provide a link to purchase the parts? Thanks

 

[Warthog]

CUCV Helpful Threads sticky. Many good threads are referenced there.

 

[nyvram]

Thanks warthog! I forget about the helpful threads sticky.

Just read both the lmc thread and your original thread as well. Seems like a no brainer no matter what headlights you upgrade to.

 

[rsh4364]

Indeed. Still want to measure that voltage drop, and then move the load out of the rest of the wire harness (yes it's not 100% stock, but it's less likely to overload the OEM wiring like it would when it left the factory).



They are removable without tools, the mounting clips are screwed down with the retention ring for the headlight itself. You can just pull them off when you want to clean your headlights (which you do when you clean your windshield every time you fill up right?), or at shows.

Dick Cepek #09775. Thanks Tim.ooops messed that up,thats the part# for the stoneguards for headlights.

 

[nyvram]

What paint and # did you use for that tan?

 

[cucvrus]

Who are you asking? Me?

 

[nyvram]

LOL yes you. we need touch up paint for our tan m1009 and you're the man

 

[cucvrus]

I am spraying 686 TAN. I found Krylon has a Camouflage color that matches perfect. SAND. I bought 2 - 6 pack cases of it and have been doing the rear bumper numbers and painting small parts for my Mule. It sprays nice and dries quickly. I did some spraying of Gillespie paint also on Mr Rusty's parts. Easy paint to work with and flows nicer then CARC. CARC has the look I wanted. It looks dry / flat and has an abrasive finish. It is easily soiled and it cleans up well with a scrub brush and Simple Green. Just about anything you use on CARC will clean it. I like the wear resistance that CARC adds to floors and still cleans easily with a pressure washer and Simple Green. Good Luck with the painting. It is getting to cold in PA for painting outside. I have several things I am sneaking in the garage and painting before the dead of winter.

 

[nyvram]

Thank you!! That's exactly what I needed. We have a few spots to sand and repaint and are on the fence about painting the antenna bracket and mast. They're od now so it might look odd on a tan cucv