had questions about price of getting lift kit w/tires

[Ranger_J]

Hey guys, currently typing this on my phone in between training events...busy days. Anyway, putting my first lift kit onto my m1009. Ii have never had one installed ever and I was just hoping to find out what a price would look like if I where to do the following....
4 to 5 inch lift
Steele brake lines
Put 36 inch irocs (I already own)
Cross over steering
Something about skyjacker stuff. (I think that's what he is going to use for the lift kit)

Like I said, this is my first go at all this. Iam going to have it done at a shop called columbus custom in columbus/ft. Benning, ga (referd to it by a friend)
Iam just trying to toughin out the truck...getting ready for the zombpacolypse...

Also just want a base price so I know iam not getting over paid

 

[skateabrock]

shops are going to charge an arm and a leg. if you can change your own oil, you can lift your truck. do some research and make a weekend out of it. you can put a 4 inch lift on your truck for 3-500 bucks. steering id take to the shop if you have never done it before, and you dont need to worrk about your brake lines if your on lifting it 4 inches. good luck man

 

[motormayhem]

Stock M1009 + 36's = cooked tranny

The gearing in the axles of a m1009 are 3.08. With the oversize tires the gearing becomes ever higher. This is good for top end speed, but makes the engine and transmission work harder which builds up heat. The engine can handle it and stay cool with a properly working system, however the stock radiator cooler is no where near enough to keep the transmission cool. If you plan to run 36" tires I would highly recommend a BIG external cooler in front of the radiator or run 3.73 or 4.10 ratio axles and a cooler. Which brings me to my next point.

If you plan to keep those 10 bolt axles your going to need to be careful. 36" tires are going past the limit of those axles (33" tires). However, if you plan to keep it on pavement they should hold out, but if you want to off road this your going to want to start thinking about something like a 14 bolt rear and a d44 or convert the front to an 8-lug 10 bolt and run that with the 14 bolt rear. This should work and stay relatively cheap. The best option would be a dana 60, but that gets expensive.

Trust me I know what I am talking about. I bought my m1009 a year ago from a guy who did the exact same thing you are going (4" lift and 35's on a stock drivetrain). I wheel the truck and daily drive and for the last yearl I have been able to do some good rock crawling on the 10 bolt axles, but the transmission would overheat when driving at speed on the highway or trips to the mountains and eventually "hot baked" itself and the truck is currently in the shop getting a rebuild and a 8"x22" cooler (a little overkill, but this truck is going to be pulling my camping trailer that is in the process of being built to the mountains so...).

My advice is lift it run the tires and get a BIG cooler. Crossover steering is on my list of things to do and is a great upgrade if you plan to wheel, but if it will stay on the street it is not needed. Also make sure your rear driveshaft is still within specs once it is lifted sometimes they are too short and while it may be fine for the street, get it stuck and pump some torque into it and you may find yourself breaking a transfercase when the truck starts bouncing and the driveshaft comes out too far as the springs unload and the axle drops. Sorry if this makes the idea sound intimidating, but im sure you want to know everything before going ahead with it. In my opinion 4" lift 36's and a little fender cutting is the way to go and I love my truck with this setup.

 

[4bogginchevys]

I ran six lug with 3.07s/35s/6 inch lift for 2 years without a problem. TH350/203/corp 10/corp 12. I didn't have the transfercase yoke issue to worry about like the 208, but everything is the similiar otherwise. 6/8 lug front ends are the SAME strength/corp/dana44.
the truck had a cooler on it already when stock so I didn't even mess with it. I broke 2 gov. loc 12 bolts and never broke the corp front, wheeled the **** out of it too. Truck only had a 2 core radiator too, I kept it clean and the only time it overheated is when I didn't. I would bet that mayhems tranny had a problem that ultimately caused the failure, although the tire size/gears didn't help. The 1009 comes with a near best drive train, it can handle some wheels and tires. When I stepped up to 3.73/14 bolt/44/ 38's is when stuff started breaking. Seemed the same mud holes I beat with half ton gear would break the 44, and once a 14 bolt. I think the 2 lugs per wheel just make you want to put it to the rugs more because you think it can handle it, not likely. good luck, there's no wrong way....cheap isn't a bad thing to get it in the air, and then take your time eliminating weaknesses as needed or wanted.

 

[motormayhem]

6/8 lug front ends are the SAME strength/corp/dana44.

I was just saying if you are gonna throw a 14 bolt FF in gonna wanna run 8 lug hubs on the 10 bolt, but ya the d44/10 bolt are almost the same strength wise and thats what everyone I know runs with their 36-38's no problems.

Add a cooler, check the driveshaft, and dont get too heavy on the skinny pedal when wheeling. Go for it!

 

[Nico]

i run the 35s (bfg at`s) since 9 1/2 jears.
what i convert:

- 4" bds springs front and rear
- transmission cooler
- hawk carbon/ ceramic brakes & drilled and slotted rotor
- ord`s steering box brace kit
- high angle driveline driveshaft
- rancho r9000 shocks

i never had any problems.
so i would recommand these combination.
i killed some u-joints with the small stock driveline in the beginning so i changed it too. i also had a 1 1/2 - 2 " add a leaf kit at first, but it makes the ride uncomfortable, so i decided to look for a liftkit with a lower spring rate. the bds springs are . but they are more 3" i like that. sometime less is more.


i soon (monday) change to 36" with the 16.5 kelsey hayes 6lug wheels. to my surprize you almost can`t see a different to the 35" in the whole size.

 

[motormayhem]

i run the 35s (bfg at`s) since 9 1/2 jears.
what i convert:

- 4" bds springs front and rear
- transmission cooler
- hawk carbon/ ceramic brakes & drilled and slotted rotor
- ord`s steering box brace kit
- high angle driveline driveshaft
- rancho r9000 shocks

i never had any problems.
so i would recommand these combination.
i killed some u-joints with the small stock driveline in the beginning so i changed it too. i also had a 1 1/2 - 2 " add a leaf kit at first, but it makes the ride uncomfortable, so i decided to look for a liftkit with a lower spring rate. the bds springs are . but they are more 3" i like that. sometime less is more.


i soon (monday) change to 36" with the 16.5 kelsey hayes 6lug wheels. to my surprize you almost can`t see a different to the 35" in the whole size.

Are those the wrangler rtII bias ply's your putting on? I just put a set on my truck and they ride nice. Just keep them down at about 30 psi or they like to follow grooves in the road and bounce right around 60, but other than that they ride real nice.

 

[skateabrock]

good point on the axles, 4.10 are still a little "high" for 36's, but i did run some 37's with 4.10's on my jeep for 2 years without a problem.

go find a "camper special" 3/4 ton chevy and snag the axles, they are VERY cheap, 14ff and a hp44, both 8 lug, and if your lucky some did have 4.56 gears.

just for giggles, here is my 1028 on 42's

 

[4bogginchevys]

all of the trucks I have seen with 4.56s that you mention were 25's, before they changed to 2500 on the trim package, I have seen 20's with 3.07s, 3.73, and 4.10s....I still cant figure out why they would put 3.07s in a 3/4 ton pickup. They made a ton of those camper special trucks but thier scarce around here in the 4wd version, why would they make a 2 wheel drive camper special anyways, just something to get me excited from 3 or 4 rows away at the junkyard.

 

[scrambled]

I checked with some friends at 4 wheel parts in marietta and they said a 4 inch kit with brake lines and steering goes for 450. install is 425.

this does not include the crossover steering.

Hope this answers your question

 

[paramilusmc]

For 2.5inches of lift, installation and 33" BFgoodwrench At's its going to cost me $1900.00. That should give you something to gauge your project off from.

 

[Mudstone]

i just peed away 3g at ord and trail worthy... 4 inches... plus and add a leaf in the rear... steering correction pitman arm... rims humvee tires... steering braces... stainless break lines... the works..

 

[paramilusmc]

i just peed away 3g at ord and trail worthy... 4 inches... plus and add a leaf in the rear... steering correction pitman arm... rims humvee tires... steering braces... stainless break lines... the works..

And how does it look/perform now?