Harmonic Balancer

[Tinstar]

Split the difference and do 175

 

[scottladdy]

I have several editions of the GM Service Manuals for these trucks from '83 - '86. They all list 200 lb ft which matches the -34 TM.

I have always torqued this to 200.

Hope this helps.

Which manual did you find the 150 ft lb figure in?

 

[ranger1950]

Used GM 1 6015.05-1c. Found out on another blog that GM changed the torque spec to 200ft lbs on engines after 1985.

 

[vanaisa]

Old thread but still relevant (like most here).
Today i saw that crank pulley on my ´86 M1009 is wobbling ca 1.5mm. So time to change it and when already there, also harmonic balancer. 63k miles and sure it looks original.
Is this GM OEM kosher?

More Information for GM GENUINE 14022671

www.rockauto.com

I am in Europe, so i looked rockauto - they ship here. If there is better place, let me know.

About pulley - where find new? Or should i look used one? Are they same on 6.2 Chevy Vans?

 

[Dave Kay]

Old thread but still relevant (like most here).
Today i saw that crank pulley on my ´86 M1009 is wobbling ca 1.5mm. So time to change it and when already there, also harmonic balancer. 63k miles and sure it looks original.
Is this GM OEM kosher?

More Information for GM GENUINE 14022671

www.rockauto.com

I am in Europe, so i looked rockauto - they ship here. If there is better place, let me know.

About pulley - where find new? Or should i look used one? Are they same on 6.2 Chevy Vans?

Buy new! Harmonic balancer is NOT something you want to buy used and take a chance it is as bad or worse than your original balancer. Unless you are going to get rid of your vehicle and just need to keep it running until sold--- buy new!

On my M1008, I replaced my balancer with only 68,000 miles on it because it looked really bad and the inside rubber was rotted. My suggestion: look for AC Delco balancer if you can pay their higher price. Their quality control is much better than any part that is made in China.

Rock Auto is good and may have the AC Delco harmonic balancer.

Good luck.

 

[vanaisa]

yes, this GM OEM is ACDelco, balancer will be new of course.
About crank pulley i asked where to find it and is used (and straight of course) will be OK.

 

[Keith_J]

Lots of AC Delco is made in China. Just saying..
The dampers I have bought from O'Reilly's are made in Australia.

Nothing special about the steel parts, the key component is the rubber ring and its bond to the steel.

 

[Mullaney]

Lots of AC Delco is made in China. Just saying..
The dampers I have bought from O'Reilly's are made in Australia.

Nothing special about the steel parts, the key component is the rubber ring and its bond to the steel.

.
Dang-it-all...

Shame that AC Delco parts are being made in china.
Maybe eventually people can just buy their Chevrolet there and have it shipped over on a boat.

One of these days we are going to get irritated with some foreign country.
Guys are going to walk over to the armory to draw supplies - and be told - Oh, those munitions were made in (insert NOT HERE).
Or how about the chips - the non classified stuff - in a missile isn't made here and we can't go kick butt because we have no supplies...

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

yes, this GM OEM is ACDelco, balancer will be new of course.

Not from RockAuto. They sell a lot of NOS. When it comes to rubber parts, that is NOT what you want. Age matters.

 

[Dave Kay]

.
Dang-it-all...

Shame that AC Delco parts are being made in china.
Maybe eventually people can just buy their Chevrolet there and have it shipped over on a boat.

One of these days we are going to get irritated with some foreign country.
Guys are going to walk over to the armory to draw supplies - and be told - Oh, those munitions were made in (insert NOT HERE).
Or how about the chips - the non classified stuff - in a missile isn't made here and we can't go kick butt because we have no supplies...

While i agree, I say no shame; just business. As I mentioned earlier, AC Delco parts made in China are manufactured with higher quality control standards and hence, they are demonstrably better quality then most run-of-the-mill Chinese parts, as per my own personal experience.

BMW uses Chinese manufacturers to build certain engines for their motorcycles and as related, their accept/reject quality control program is of a higher standard as well. A reputation I'm sure BMW is very careful and conscientious to maintain.

It does pay to research the origin of aftermarket parts you may put on you vehicles, firearms, whatever.

Regards,

 

[vanaisa]

Not from RockAuto. They sell a lot of NOS. When it comes to rubber parts, that is NOT what you want. Age matters.

Well, what brand harmonic balancer you recommend then?

 

[ezgn]

Well, what brand harmonic balancer you recommend then?

Just get a G.M. brand balancer from rock auto. I bought one and they are great. There is no way anyone can state Rock Auto sells inferior parts. Show me the proof and quit scaremongering.

 

[ranger1950]

The AC Delco is the way to go. Some guys recommend Dorman but they are not made the same. The AC has 7mm of rubber between the hubs. The Dorman 4mm. Make sure you use a new bolt and replace the front seal. The ultimate is a Fluiddampr, but that will run you about $400. The AC is a little over $100. Torque to 200ftlbs.

 

[Sharecropper]

If you can spare the cash, I recommend the Fluidampr. It is by far superior, by using a gel instead of rubber to dampen the torque curves. When I first got my M1028 in 2010, that was the first thing I replaced. My original engine ran strong, however there was a definite "shake" when running. I installed the Fluidampr and all the shakes went away instantly. Now I am building a P400 / 700R4 / NP241 drivetrain to replace the original drivetrain. I have already replaced the new OEM damper with a Fluidampr. I pulled the OEM damper off with a puller, then ordered a new M16-1.5x70 bolt from McMaster to get the Fluidampr started, then replaced the 70mm bolt with the original 50mm bolt and tightened her up. The trick is how to torque the bolt to 200 foot-pounds. I had a piece of angle iron in the shop, so I drilled 2 holes and milled out a center hole. Then I let the end of the angle iron rest on the shop floor and set my torque wrench to 200 foot pounds. It was pretty easy. Just takes a little thinking about it. I posted the process in Post #264 in my rebuild thread -

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/kinda-got-carried-away-m1028-rebuild.54469/post-2175994

 

[vanaisa]

thanks guys, Delco it is then.
There is Dorman too, in rockauto, but i had pretty bad memories about their steering pumps and alternators some times ago.
Front seal change is good hint - mine is OK but sure, when we are there, why not to do that too.
Fluiddampr is probably overkill for my truck use.

I dont see any shake on engine or other anomalies but when i must change wobbly crank pulley, it is wise to do everything together.

 

[ezgn]

thanks guys, Delco it is then.
There is Dorman too, in rockauto, but i had pretty bad memories about their steering pumps and alternators some times ago.
Front seal change is good hint - mine is OK but sure, when we are there, why not to do that too.
Fluiddampr is probably overkill for my truck use.

I dont see any shake on engine or other anomalies but when i must change wobbly crank pulley, it is wise to do everything together.

If youy want to buy the right tools to replace the balancer and you can lay out the cash Gearwrench Harmonic Balancer installer #36790D $74 dollars at Amazon Gearwrench Puller #41600 $51 dollars at Amazon. G.M. ACDelco Bolt #14022672 $10.56 at Amazon.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Just get a G.M. brand balancer from rock auto. I bought one and they are great. There is no way anyone can state Rock Auto sells inferior parts. Show me the proof and quit scaremongering.

Maybe you should get acquainted with RockAuto. Their business model includes selling a LOT of NOS. This is not exactly a deep dark secret. It's one of the primary reasons for their success.

Do you know what NOS means?

 

[vanaisa]

Marcus - in my case, this part is not NOS, it is "genuine GM original equipment"

More Information for GM GENUINE 14022671

www.rockauto.com

And i find explanation about that labeling here:

GM announces new packaging for GM Genuine Parts, ACDelco

General Motors on Wednesday announced new parts packaging for GM Genuine Parts and the automaker’s ACDelco brand. “We’re executing a focused, disciplined strategy to improve our core business…

www.repairerdrivennews.com

Anyways, i ordered one, we´ll see what packaging arrives and how balancer looks.

 

[Rutjes]

If youy want to buy the right tools to replace the balancer and you can lay out the cash Gearwrench Harmonic Balancer installer #36790D $74 dollars at Amazon Gearwrench Puller #41600 $51 dollars at Amazon. G.M. ACDelco Bolt #14022672 $10.56 at Amazon.

For the damper, I recently put Dayco on my K1500 6.5 and one on my friends M1008. I made my own puller and installer. Do you have a welding machine there? It's not too expensive and since you want to do it right, just change it. Get a new crank pulley to go with it, it has a large rubber part in it as well. You'll know for sure the damper isn't going to destroy your crank.

You'll need a long M16x1.5 bolt, I believe mine was 100mm long, I'd go a bit longer next time and 2 nuts. The thread is very important. This is fine thread, you do not want to use the wrong thread and strip the thread from the crank!. Use a fairly thick flat piece of steel and drill 3 holes. Center hole to fit the M16 bolt through and 2 10mm holes to attach it to the damper. Weld one of the M16 bolts on-top of the center hole (lock it in place with the bolt and remaining nut). You are now ready to pull the old damper off. Take the crank bolt out, remove the washer and put the crank bolt back in all the way. Mount the puller and start turning the M16 bolt until the balancer pops off. Remove the crank bolt. Btw, you might want to chamber the tip of the M16 bolt a bit.

For the installer, I re-used the M16 bolt. Get the balancer going by hand. Now put the nut on the M16 bolt all the way and slide the big washer on. Thread the installer bolt in as far is it will go. Now start turning the nut. You might want to put some lubricant between the bolt and washer to limit rotational force, we want it to push only. I used a bearing. My installer bolt did not bottom out in the crank so the further the damper was on the more I threaded it into to the crank just to make sure I didn't strip the crank thread. The further the damper goes, the tougher it will get. Just keep going till it bottoms out.

Keep these tools in your CUCV specific toolbox.

Oh, find a way to keep the engine from turning over when removing and torquing the crank nut. I used a long piece of angle iron and drilled 2 holes to mount it to the damper.

View attachment 837794 View attachment 837795 View attachment 837796

 

[frank8003]

interesting
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