Harmonic Balancer

[motormayhem]

Whats required to remove and install one? I know you need a puller and installer, but do I need to change the front oil seal and does the radiator or anything need to be removed in order to change it?

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Thanks

 

[rlwm211]

from mitchell on demand

"Remove belts and lower pulley.

Remove Harmonic damper with puller.

Pry old seal from cover.

Drive new seal in with open side towards the engine using a driver (J22102)"

I suggest that you can use a deep socket to drive the new seal in. In no case directly strike the seal itself. Always try to use something to prevent distortion of the seal when you install it. It is better to apply the force over the entire face of the seal as opposed to one area.

You can download the tms for the CUCV at WWW.JATONKAM35s.com including the 34 series which will be for the depot maintanence that this would come under.

I did check the manuals and they approach the engine from a total disassembly reassembly pooint of view so the diagrams and illustrations might be useful in this case, but the proceedure to specifically replace the front crankshaft seal was not to be found, or at least I could not find it.

Hope this helps

RL

RL

 

[reloader64]

You don't have to change the front seal, but this would be a good time to do it, if you are considering it. IIRC, you will need to remove the radiator shroud, but I think there is enough room between the radiator and the balancer to fit your puller.

Scott

 

[K9Vic]

Read through this post, page three has the best tech tips for this repair.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?44202-check-you-balencer-3.html

 

[Flyingvan911]

Put a couple of layers of cardboard against the radiator to protect the fins and tubes while you are working. If a tool slips, the cardboard will usually save the radiator.

 

[motormayhem]

Thanks for all the info. Does anyone know the part number for the front oil seal? Mine doesn't leak, but I guess if I am gonna change it I may as well do it when I do the balancer. Also is the stock balancer fine or is there something better. I know about the $400 fluid dampener one but I don't want to spend that much money.

 

[markinnh]

I sure this is a silly question, albeit more vibration than normal (whats that this is my only 6.2) what are the symptoms of a bad balancer please.

 

[motormayhem]

I sure this is a silly question, albeit more vibration than normal (whats that this is my only 6.2) what are the symptoms of a bad balancer please.

It absorbs vibrations in the crank cause by the engine running. It is directly behind the front crank pulley. When they fail the crank snaps or cracks from excessive vibration. Look at it when it is running. If it is not turning true then it is going bad, also look at the rubber layer in the middle of it and see if it is squishing out or cracking or otherwise deteriorated which will indicate.

 

[344lbsofgetdown]

changed mine today found that someone before me used a glue like compound on the key and drilled into the crank onder the old key new key and harmonic also belts and a seal will fire it up tommorow night also found 3 glow plugs swollen will change them in the spring

 

[maxim]

TheDieselPage.com - 6.5L Crankshaft Harmonic Damping - Fluidampr's Viscous Fluid Vibration Damper - Published September 2007

 

[JUNKYARDJOHN]

Its a $3 seal..... REPLACE IT. John

 

[leisman7]

Whats the best replacement part for the harmonic balance?

 

[344lbsofgetdown]

bought mine at autozone dorman is the maker looks like a OEM replacment paid like 67 bucks

 

[IdahoPlowboy]

I should probably do this also.

 

[Warthog]

Whats the best replacement part for the harmonic balance?

Here are the stock numbers and the aftermarket numbers

Balancer -
GM 14022611
NAPA - BK 6005282 which is a Dorman - 594-128

Timing Cover Seal
GM 3860095
NAPA - 23300
National - 3945

I sure this is a silly question, albeit more vibration than normal (whats that this is my only 6.2) what are the symptoms of a bad balancer please.

Here is an attchment that covers some of the symtoms. It is from Dorman who is a parts supplier

 

[combatmech]

Just as an after thought...I had mine replaced ( harmonic balancer ) back in March. Problem #1 My crank pulley was trashed.
Problem #2 The part the shop got from the chevy dealer is different from the stock crank pulley. One less belt groove. According to the GM parts guy, the crank pulley is an updated one from GM as per the VIN code.
We ended up running two belts instead of three. I'll post pics and part numbers for the belts and crank pulley later if anyone is interested.
Thus far the configuration is working. Get a little belt squeel on the first start of a cold morning. After about two min....shes fine.
I ended up getting a crank pulley from Eastern surplus in the event I switch back to the stock config.

 

[ixpacman]

Replace key damper and seal.Just blew a perfectly good 6.2 three weeks ago.Two months ago I noticed excessive wobble at crank pulley.Mistakenly assumed pulley was bad. Had a bad feeling but motor had no unusual vibration that I could detect until one day alternator light came on followed by immediate seizure of motor. Bummer.scratched my head. synthetic oil and high level of maintenance and motor just blew with no warning. Started disassembly and found motor pristene including all bearings cylinder heads and valves perfect one small problem.Block destroyed and crank in three pieces. Pulled crank damper and key sheared and damper bolt was still tight. Go figure. Note to self.First thing to do on any 6.2 is check damper key and replace everything if rubber is cracked or if there is any wobble in crank pulley. Expensive education.
Harry

 

[ChiefMinion]

Just finished replacing the damper in my M1009. A lot of great tips and info via search. I'll take a crack at rolling some of them up and adding a few of my own. Remember, I'm not a professional mechanic so use your own judgment. YMMV.

Removal:
- I removed the belts, fan and pulley, and fan shroud.
- Before removing the belts, loosen the nuts on the fan clutch/water pump pulley 1/4 turn. Don't remove them yet, just loosen them a bit. This is easier to do with the belts holding the pulley for you.
- Others suggested covering the radiator with cardboard. I used a piece of masonite. The quality of the protection should match the size of the klutz. I'm a pretty big klutz. Given the expense and PIA factor associated with a radiator repair/replace, this is cheep insurance.
- I have the good fortune to have an impact wrench to ease crank bolt removal. If you go with the pry bar method, then radiator protection is a must. Also, I would try it with longer bolts than the stock ones you just removed.
- Got a puller from Craftsman. Not pimping Sears, just saying it worked nice at $17-18. Did have to get a few M10-1.50 x 75 bolts and washers though. There were none in the kit that fit our damper. These bolts worked fine with the Craftsman puller.
- You have to pull the damper just over 1" before it clears the oil seal. One might consider stopping just short of that for some cleanup in the oil seal area with a scraper, toothbrush, and/or air. The more dirt removed at this stage, the less to deal with during seal replacement.
- Personally, I wouldn't consider replacing the damper without replacing a 25 year old seal. They are cheap.
- Be sure to account for the spring in the oil seal. It should come out with the seal. Make sure. You don't want that in your crankcase.
- The old seal left some residue on the timing cover. Some brake cleaner sprayed onto a rag with elbow grease took care of that. I would not spray cleaner directly onto the cover lest it enter the engine, but that's just me.

Install:
- The PVC fitting section of your building products store is a treasure trove for seal drivers. PVC unions in particular have a lot of nice parts of various sizes that can be used as drivers.
- Personally, I would never use a hammer on my crank. You can manufacture the tool referenced in the Fluidampr article. However, keystonebuilder70001 suggested a M16-1.5 x 100mm bolt. That with a nut, washer(s), and a couple of wrenches made a great installer. My Fastenal didn't stock this bolt so deal with it ahead of time if you are looking for a one day project. (Thanks keystonebuilder70001. That was a great tip.)
- Used anti-seize in lieu of grease on the shaft and bolt.
- I didn't have a friend (available) to hold the fly wheel so I drilled a hole in a piece of steel bar and bolted it to the damper. (See picture.) This rested against the bottom of the right front spring, making the final torque pretty easy. Since it was bolted to the damper, I didn't have to hold it.
- I also used a single drop of blue thread locker on each bolt on the main pulley. Probably overkill.

Attached a picture of the back of my old damper to show just what bad shape the rubber ring was in.

Went with the FLuidampr. Wish I had taken before and after video. It runs noticeably smoother now, quieter, less vibration. Happy so far.

 

[ixpacman]

How much was the fluid damper?

 

[ChiefMinion]

Part number 800191. Summit lists them for $435.35

I had the coin and wanted to give one a try. Can't tell you how it stacks up against an OEM damper. Can tell you it is a lot smoother than when I started. (I suspect the original was in pretty bad shape.)