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Has anyone installed a cooling system upgrade?

2INSANE

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That doesn't make sense.
Sorry. My voice text wrote without it twice… LOL!

My personal testing on the motor stand with a running 6.2 and 6.5 shows the back of the motor gets hotter then the front of the motor without the PBD kit. Since the temperature sensor is located more in the front, it is not reading the true temperatures of the back of the motor. So if your gauge is reading 200 degrees then the back of the motor will be anywhere between 210-240. Does that make sense now?

So say you are pulling up a steep hill and your gauge temperature peaks at 240 degrees which is the front temperature of your motor right? Well, the back of your motor temp would be actually 250-280 degrees toasting the back portion of your motor.
 
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87cr250r

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Take a look at your head gaskets. Most of the flow in the block goes to the rear and then into the heads where it flows through the heads to the thermostat housing. The rear of the block will run warmer always because it's further from the water pump. The heads are not as sensitive to the coolant temperature differential. The thermostat measures the average coolant temperature of the engine. If your cooling system is performing properly as long as the average temperature is in spec, you have nothing to worry about.

Almost all the 6.2 6.5 engines fail because the head gasket fails at the rear of the head where this most important water passage is that moves water from the block to the head. However, it fails because it doesn't have a lot of clamp load from the bolts. The bad news is that the 6.2 6.5 engines experience deck wear from the fire ring of the head gasket.
 

2INSANE

Well-known member
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Location
Belgrade, Montana
However, it fails because it doesn't have a lot of clamp load from the bolts.
I am not trying to troll this topic but only state the facts.

1. Gm knew there was an issue. In the manuals you will see that the ring gaps in cylinders 7-8 are larger to compensate for the overheating of the rear of the block.

2. Gm tried to fix this issue with their newer improved heads. But that did not help much. The Optimizer and P400 heads are still cracking between the valves. There is not as many reports about them because they have not been available to the general public for very long.

3. My personal testing confirms overheating of the rear of the block on a test stand which is open to air. Now imaging how much hotter it gets once installed against the firewall.

4. Twisted Steel confirmed the poor flow design of the early 6.2 blocks by cutting up different years of 6.2/6.5 blocks and comparing the coolant passages.

5. The failure is from the constant expansion and contraction from the overheating making the gasket soft overtime. Clamp load on the head bolts does play a small part with the issue but is not the main cause. The main cause is from the overheating of the rear of the block.

6. The reviews of everyone that has installed the PBD kit or made their own kit has reported improved lower overall coolant temperatures and balanced temperatures though out the motor.

7. The very early 6.2’s had an extra coolant passage that did not give enough clamping surface area and made for premature failure from the overheating. There was a recall on this where that passage port got capped over.

So in a nutshell… It just makes sense to have the PBD kit or make a similar one. Such a simple upgrade that helps solve so many problems.

Edit: I am not paid by PBD or get any deals or sponsorship from PBD to say these things. I am defending this simple upgrade because I know it works!
 
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79Vette

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The scenario that you are talking about could happen to any motor of any make. Running heads dry of coolant would for sure crack the heads or cause serious damage of almost any motor. Lol.

The PBD kit is simple to understand. It balances the heads coolant temperatures. Without it, say your gauge is at 200 degrees, the back of the motor will be more in the tune of 210-240 degrees. With it, say your gauge is 200 degrees, the back of the motor will be 200 degrees. Make sense? So a cautious driver monitoring the gauges with the kit can have piece of mind.
My solution was to install gauges in both the front and the back of the head to monitor what is happening in my engine, in real time, and use that data to decide for myself what upgrades are warranted. Instead of relying on speculation or reports from others' applications which may be different from my own

I have not observed a temperature difference of greater than 10 degrees between the front and rear of the head. Maybe that is different for other engines or applications. All I can speak to is the testing I have performed on one specific 6.2, with a specific turbo, in a heavily modified M1009. I cannot promise my results would be duplicated in anyone else's truck.

Like with any modifications, If anyone thinks they need something for a specific application I encourage them to install it. But make that decision based on understanding of what the need is and data showing how the current system is deficient.

I'm sure others have different test results than mine based on diffuse cases, different installations, etc. In those cases, based on data, I would definitely install any upgrades that make sense
 
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