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HAUNTED CUCV, SMOKE, AND STRANDED Starter Relay???

M1028A1ShelterCarrier

Active member
230
76
28
Location
Mammoth Lakes Ca.
Attempted to start my M1028 today and there was no power sent to the starter. I went inside the house and had the keys in my pocket. A short time later while I was on the phone, I heard a truck cranking. After about twenty seconds, I still heard the cranking and I realized it was my truck. I ran outside and it was smoking. I pulled the negative to prevent a fire.

So what went bad to for that to happen? I replaced the starter and the starter relay recently. I am by no means an electrical engineer. Did the new relay go bad and send power to the starter? Any ideas would be welcome as I plan to tear into it tomorrow morning. Although it was smoking, I hope my new hi-torque starter is no fried.
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Houston Texas
There is a starter relay under the dash right by where the civi radio would mount. Its a rectangle relay with 4 wires comming out. Mine quit a coulpe of months ago. There is a thread on this with pics. I ordered a new one from GM and paid about $40. But afterwards i realized it's the same relay as the heater blower motor relay on the civi trucks with AC. About $13 at autozone.
 

acetomatoco

New member
2,198
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0
The famous failure to start... the dreaded purple wire... you can cut the wire and insert a pushbutton like an old ford...and do the same thing... turn key to start and push the button... or you can replace the 2 bit relay with a heavy duty one like the glow plug relay and mount it in the engine compartment near the fuel filter and feel safe again....
 

Michael

Active member
1,348
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Location
Fulton, MS
Strange it waited until he got inside to make connection. I have had two fail in the open position. I have some pics of mine here:

http://1plant4u.smugmug.com/gallery/1345801#63505867

You would be amazed at how many trucks get released from GL with no windshields or doors. This leads to a lot of the corrosion issues some of us have.

This part seems to have been just barely getting by in 1984 when the parts might have been made in the USA. The made in china replacement for this part just don't seem to be doing the job.
 

M1028A1ShelterCarrier

Active member
230
76
28
Location
Mammoth Lakes Ca.
My relay is only two months old. I pulled the gear reduction starter and could smell the problem. I pulled the solenoid off and it (solenoid) reeked. The starter does not smell. Do you think I should just replace the solenoid and give it a try? I will start looking for a supplier for this solenoid. Thanks
 

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Michael

Active member
1,348
24
38
Location
Fulton, MS
Did you get the starter locally or did you order it from a surplus dealer? If you got it locally, I would take it back and try to get it replaced under warranty. The relay under the dash may not even be the problem in this case.

All of the relay problems I have heard about have been that it stops making contact and won't start or the contacts weld together and won't release. It should be a simple mater to test the relay under the dash to see if it is still working. If it opens and closes as it should, I would blame the part in the picture as being defective.
 

Bobert

Member
472
9
18
Location
Des Moines/ Iowa
My M1009 did about the same thing. Got the AC40 5 prong relay from Advance auto parts. Worked like a charm, except the first start drained the batteries. Next up, alternator work!

Also, Might want to get a battery cut off switch so you don't cook the starter too long.
 

M1028A1ShelterCarrier

Active member
230
76
28
Location
Mammoth Lakes Ca.
I replaced the starter and a GM starter relay. I spent the extra money for the made in china GM part to prevent this from happening again. Good idea one the battery cut off switch. Thats cheap insurance so I think I will install one. Thanks Guys
 

deepseeman

Member
80
0
6
Location
San Diego, ca
So lets see if you can answer this one.
My truck ran great. parked it, then the next morning it wouldnt start. She had all dash lights bright except for gen 2 and the volt gage was barely reading. I turn the key and the starter barely responds then nothing. here is a list of things I did;
batteries-check good
starter cables replaced
starter tested fine
power to starter @ 26volts
cleaned battery terminals
checked all fusable links-good
checked for loose wires and connections-none found

I dont know what else it could be. Any ideas out there?
 

deepseeman

Member
80
0
6
Location
San Diego, ca
fuses all checked out. I am replacing the relay tomorrow, I figured if it was bad I wouldnt get any juice to the starter. I guess its the process of elimination.
 

mangus580

New member
6,010
282
0
Location
Western NY
If the relay is bad, you wont get anything to thet starter only when you turn the key.

BTW, please update your location to more specific than USA.... make it at least state level please.
 

underdog

New member
135
1
0
Location
Sunbright,TN
on the 24 volt power distribution block threre are 2 orange wires together on a stud.
after mine had a simular problem, It would not crank and the volt guage had quit working.
One of those orange wires was burned in two at the distribution block.
Patched the wire and changed the relay (have another CUCV) that loaned its.
All is right with the world again.
 
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