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Having a fuel tank made

juddspaintballs

juddspaintballs

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Berkeley Springs, WV
I've changed my mind on what shape I want the tank to be after doing a bit more precise measurements. I think I'm going to do a 13" tall, 13" deep, and 87" wide tank. It will still require two sheets of material, but it will be completely below the bed rails and still leave me just over 8' in the bed to put stuff. Should be a little over 60 gallons worth of capacity too.

Bottom tap is the way I'll go. I'll still use a pump, but it will be external and easily bypassed.

The biggest question still remains: steel or aluminum? I'm going to use 1/8" and steel is considerably cheaper. I might even try my hand at welding it. I'll get as much of it bent as I can so I have less welding to do. I'm strongly leaning towards steel with a fuel tank liner applied at this point unless someone gives me a strong argument to use aluminum that justifies the extra price.
 
Nonotagain

Nonotagain

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juddspaintballs said:
I've changed my mind on what shape I want the tank to be after doing a bit more precise measurements. I think I'm going to do a 13" tall, 13" deep, and 87" wide tank. It will still require two sheets of material, but it will be completely below the bed rails and still leave me just over 8' in the bed to put stuff. Should be a little over 60 gallons worth of capacity too.

Bottom tap is the way I'll go. I'll still use a pump, but it will be external and easily bypassed.

The biggest question still remains: steel or aluminum? I'm going to use 1/8" and steel is considerably cheaper. I might even try my hand at welding it. I'll get as much of it bent as I can so I have less welding to do. I'm strongly leaning towards steel with a fuel tank liner applied at this point unless someone gives me a strong argument to use aluminum that justifies the extra price.
Click to expand...
Judd, If you can make a trip to Baltimore, I probably can get my contact Yolanda to quote a price for both steel and 5052 aluminum.

You dimensions yield a tank holding 63.64 gallons without baffles, which you should have. Also, have you given thought to how you are going to mount the tank to the bed? The easiest method is to weld an "L" bracket to the tank and use a set of die springs as a shock mount.

PM me if interested.
 
A

A/C Cages

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Remember if using disimular metals to mount using a poly or rubber bushing or trouble will soon follow as your tank gets eaten away from corrosion.
 
Prankster

Prankster

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Ponca City, Oklahoma
I have always wanted to use a set of beer kegs for saddle tanks. I even thought I could add an air line to pressurize it in case my fuel pump brakes.

Do you think a stainless steel keg would be better than an aluminum one?
I guess it will take more than a keg tap for the supply lines.
 
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A

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Use SS if you are going to ever run WMO or WVO. There is a higher acidity to these fuels that will eat away at Aluminum in the long run. The food grade aluminum kegs are not the same type of aluminum as tanks are made from different alloy to keep the PH setting. This is only with the tanks made from 92 to present though.
 
Jake0147

Jake0147

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Panton, VT
juddspaintballs said:
What running board at the door? It's got nothing below the frame rails except axle now. The fenders are cut to the bottom of the cab and the cab is the first step from the ground. Fuel tank, tool box, and batteries are all going in the bed. It's a toy, not a daily driver.

I was thinking of doing a top tap with a dip tube and a pump for primary fuel delivery, but have a bottom tap plumbed in with a manual valve for gravity feed as a backup.
Click to expand...

Oooooh... That kind of truck...

Consider taking a hint from Caterpillar and other heavy equipment manufacturers who make machines designed to operate in a sustained fashion on significant inclines-
No baffles at all, to facilitate cleaning the tank if something happens.
Four taps in the tank, one as close as possible to each corner.
Four semi-rigid lines (steel or copper, possibly synflex) to a common point near the center of the tank, but roughly six inches below it. Well within your frame rails still, bring them to one common point and mount the transfer pump (the in-tank pump substitute) at a point just forward of that, towards the engine (at least in the schematic version, probably frame mounted back there somewhere).

This means that as the fuel sloshes, shifts, and what not, the common point ALWAYS remains flooded with non-aerated fuel, and depending how much "drop" you have room for, and how close to centered you can get the common point... You can run the tank to bone dry at very significant angles in ANY direction with uninterrupted flow. And if you run out in that position... a gallon or two will again fill the lines and get you out of where you're at for a proper refueling. The only real drawback to this is you must have and regularly maintain a water separator (which the primary fuel filter can is so in theory it's a non-event here...), and a clear one might be better, because you will give up the non-useable part at the bottom of the tank, below where the stand tube would be if you were to take fuel out of the top of the tank, which is where water first collects.

FWIW, in a steel bed for occasional use, I can see dissimilar metals reacting. If you go with an aluminum tank, make sure it's mountings are equipped to deal with that, and there's easy access for good grip on the fasteners involved. In a lot of ways aluminum would be better, but were it me, for the cost, similicity, and resiliancy to impact, I'd do steel.
 
Prankster

Prankster

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Keg volume

So, how many gallons dose a full size keg hold?


A/C Cages said:
Use SS if you are going to ever run WMO or WVO. There is a higher acidity to these fuels that will eat away at Aluminum in the long run. The food grade aluminum kegs are not the same type of aluminum as tanks are made from different alloy to keep the PH setting. This is only with the tanks made from 92 to present though.
Click to expand...
 
juddspaintballs

juddspaintballs

Member
429
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Location
Berkeley Springs, WV
So it's not exactly the shape I'm looking for, but this might work...

I saw a nice price on a nice aluminum round saddle tank from a freightliner road tractor. It's 24" diameter and 60" long. I want to say something like 110 gallons to boot. It's bigger than I really wanted, but since it's round I'll still be able to put a few sheets of plywood on the floor of the bed. Plus it leaves me room on both sides (since it will be mounted side to side in the front center of the bed) to build a tool box and battery box. For $200, it's fairly difficult to beat that price for a big fuel tank don't you think?
 
Kohburn

Kohburn

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SOMD
BadMastard said:
two cents? if you're mounting a tank there, and it's aluminum and brand new, you should be able to keep that puppy very clean. I'd go with a bottom tap, which would also mean you have gravity on your side for pressure. Not that we NEED a tank pump with the deuce, but every little bit helps. I'd also include a drain valve if you are going multifuel. I always thought it would be nice to drain the tank if you get one full of crap.

I'd agree with 59Apache, tank builder. Might have an idea or two as well.
Click to expand...

bottom taps aren't legal, fyi
 
A

A/C Cages

Guest
Bottom taps are only legal in agricultural farm implement machinery. Never for one road use.
No manufactures even use them on farm equipment anymore just in case they go down the road to the next feild.

John Deere changed thier bottom feed tanks due to this problem back in 1982. But Navistar waited till 1984.
 
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