Having issues removing hydraulic head

[Floridianson]

Would seem like when the G code came out it is a IP just about like any other. Heck might have been even better with the oiling system. There were probably heads still floating around out there and the blocking kits too if the correct head could not be found. One would think that the blocking kit could be made. You have the IP does it look like you could make one up? It has to be correct and never leak / fail. If so then you could be helping others that might just have G and have to replace the head that does not have the oil port.

 

[gringeltaube]

Years ago I was in the same situation: needed a HH replacement (#HD9065A) for a Code G pump (#PSB6A 85EH 5250D1) in an LDS427-2 motor.
At that time the only ones available new were the HD90100A heads, either original AMBAC-USA or their reproductions, made in China.
At the end I was lucky enough to score a US-made part. But when it finally got into my hands I soon discovered that the 100A model head is only good for all -90EH pumps, but not for the 85EH. IIRC, the -100A plunger is about 6mm shorter than the one from the -65A. Meaning, you can install it but it would not pump anything, since the lobe barely touches the button.
The quick solution was to swap the entire IP, by using a Code E pump out of an LDT motor. Worked well, after some adjustments.

 

[Floridianson]

Wonder if Ambac has any different timing buttons. Thought someone got one of the 03's for the 100A head they were stilling. I have not been looking / playing or keeping up with my poor Deuce since I stepped up to the 5 ton / 10 tonners. It has been sitting all alone in the field for years probably crying it's self to sleep. That and trying to keep up with the MTV stuff this is too much for this big dummy.
Please someone make me and offer on everything that is left so I can save some of what is left of my mind!

 

[Greg Schreiber]

I'm covered got a new pump coming. I do not want to mess with another G code pump. Just from my brief search last night. There are no heads. There are no plug kits available. The pump is obsolete of the obsolete. I like driving my truck and not rummaging to all corners of the internet scrounging for parts. Old pump is going back as a core.

Actually I knew how to take it apart since I knew it was a Code "G" pump from the start. Going in blind like you did is a totally different thing. The whole injection pump is in pretty bad shape though. I bought it for the "bridge, cover and stop plate" parts . Also there are a few other parts that can be salvaged. There was a guy selling a so called "NOS" Code "G" pump on ebay. It was actually a rebuild and I told him so, but he wouldn't come down on his price. Maybe he still has it for sell.
I would strongly suggest to "Greg" to buy a good used pump from a member here and forget about this Code "G" pump.

Well I checked on the pump on ebay and it already sold.

Interesting thing is you were telling me to pry out the hydraulic head and just beat the stamping back down. I was going in blind on this G code pump as a newbie. Its unfortunate that someone would know about the oiling aspect of the G code pump into the side of the 9065A head and not share that information. Why would you allow someone to destroy their pump and not share that information?

 

[Greg Schreiber]

I'm covered got a new pump coming. I do not want to mess with another G code pump. Just from my brief search last night. There are no heads. There are no plug kits available. The pump is obsolete of the obsolete. I like driving my truck and not rummaging to all corners of the internet scrounging for parts. Old pump is going back as a core.


Interesting thing is you were telling me to pry out the hydraulic head and just beat the stamping back down. I was going in blind on this G code pump as a newbie. Its unfortunate that someone would know about the oiling aspect of the G code pump into the side of the 9065A head and not share that information. Why would you allow someone to destroy their pump and not share that information?

That in itself is very disappointing.

 

[gringeltaube]

Interesting thing is you were telling me to pry out the hydraulic head and just beat the stamping back down. I was going in blind on this G code pump as a newbie. Its unfortunate that someone would know about the oiling aspect of the G code pump into the side of the 9065A head and not share that information. Why would you allow someone to destroy their pump and not share that information?

In his defense, I don't think that Rustystud knew about yours being a G-pump, when he wrote that...(?)
In your first post you talk about LDT 465. Code G pumps normally don't come on the LDT's.

 

[Floridianson]

Yea I saw that but did not want to say anything. Would have been nice for that info no matter what code pump was in the machine. Maybe someone would have put two and two together. Well we see now that you should never have to pry a head off any pump. If you have to pry then something is wrong. I have never taken out a head with the head scribe and pointer on mark and it not come out easy. I have never seen or heard of a post or thread with any trouble removing the head when the head is on mark but maybe I missed that post.
On a lighter note going through the TM that I wish I would have looked at before maybe I would have seen it and figured it out yep 3-8 remove oil filter or oil duct sealing screw. Also shows but a bad pic of the oil filter and a really bad pic of what the oil sealing duct screw could look like. If I ever meet Jesus and he asked me if I have been keeping up on reading my Bible I will have to tell the truth. I have been trying there Jesus but Doghead wants me to get through the TM's first then from then on keep the Bible handy and well read.

 

[gringeltaube]

Well we see now that you should never have to pry a head off any pump. If you have to pry then something is wrong.

Agree with that - although I have only done it a couple times.

..... I have been trying there Jesus but Doghead wants me to get through the TM's first...

Now, that is funny James - even Jesus might smile a bit after that response...

 

[Greg Schreiber]

That in itself is very disappointing.

Agree with that - although I have only done it a couple times.

Now, that is funny James - even Jesus might smile a bit after that response...

I won't do it again that's for sure.

Yea I saw that but did not want to say anything. Would have been nice for that info no matter what code pump was in the machine. Maybe someone would have put two and two together. Well we see now that you should never have to pry a head off any pump. If you have to pry then something is wrong. I have never taken out a head with the head scribe and pointer on mark and it not come out easy. I have never seen or heard of a post or thread with any trouble removing the head when the head is on mark but maybe I missed that post.
On a lighter note going through the TM that I wish I would have looked at before maybe I would have seen it and figured it out yep 3-8 remove oil filter or oil duct sealing screw. Also shows but a bad pic of the oil filter and a really bad pic of what the oil sealing duct screw could look like. If I ever meet Jesus and he asked me if I have been keeping up on reading my Bible I will have to tell the truth. I have been trying there Jesus but Doghead wants me to get through the TM's first then from then on keep the Bible handy and well read.

Where did you find that at?

 

[Floridianson]

It is in the Deuce TM's section on this board. TM 9-2910-226-34 page 3-8. look on top of any page and see where it says Upgrade, Rules, TM. let your fingers do the walking and the Deuce TM's are just a click away.

 

[rustystud]

I'm covered got a new pump coming. I do not want to mess with another G code pump. Just from my brief search last night. There are no heads. There are no plug kits available. The pump is obsolete of the obsolete. I like driving my truck and not rummaging to all corners of the internet scrounging for parts. Old pump is going back as a core.


Interesting thing is you were telling me to pry out the hydraulic head and just beat the stamping back down. I was going in blind on this G code pump as a newbie. Its unfortunate that someone would know about the oiling aspect of the G code pump into the side of the 9065A head and not share that information. Why would you allow someone to destroy their pump and not share that information?

OK before I go all "Ape Crap" on you, it is your responsibility to know what you have not mine. You did not show us a picture of your injection pump, just some close-ups of the timing marks. You never mentioned anything about a code "G" pump. If you had then I could have told you how to take it off.
As far as "prying' it off. I said to "Gently" pry it out. I have had two that the Quill gear cover had broken the rivets and spun. They had to be pried off. Not knowing you had a "G" pump (since YOU never mentioned it) I offered the best advice I had at the time.
So about "allowing you to destroy your pump", take a good look in the mirror. That is the person responsible.
I'll think twice about offering my help to a person who holds others responsible for their short comings.

 

[rustystud]

I've already come-u

Would seem like when the G code came out it is a IP just about like any other. Heck might have been even better with the oiling system. There were probably heads still floating around out there and the blocking kits too if the correct head could not be found. One would think that the blocking kit could be made. You have the IP does it look like you could make one up? It has to be correct and never leak / fail. If so then you could be helping others that might just have G and have to replace the head that does not have the oil port.

I've already come-up with a simple solution, but since this pump is as rare as Hens teeth I don't think anyone would care. Also as mentioned this pump is almost impossible to get parts for. This last week I've been talking with "AmBac" about parts. They told me this pump was "specifically" designed for the military only. No civilian applications what-so-ever. Most parts have been discontinued years ago.
There are some parts that are shared with the other pumps, but the whole governor assembly and cam and piston and hydraulic head assembly are different.
I know the advance assembly is also different. Basically this is just one weird pump. I wanted one to play with and see if I could modify some parts to fit on my other LDS units. Like swapping out the advance assembly for one.

 

[Greg Schreiber]

OK before I go all "Ape Crap" on you, it is your responsibility to know what you have not mine. You did not show us a picture of your injection pump, just some close-ups of the timing marks. You never mentioned anything about a code "G" pump. If you had then I could have told you how to take it off.
As far as "prying' it off. I said to "Gently" pry it out. I have had two that the Quill gear cover had broken the rivets and spun. They had to be pried off. Not knowing you had a "G" pump (since YOU never mentioned it) I offered the best advice I had at the time.
So about "allowing you to destroy your pump", take a good look in the mirror. That is the person responsible.
I'll think twice about offering my help to a person who holds others responsible for their short comings.

LOL I'm already over it. I just found IRONIC humor in your infinite knowledge after the fact of course. Unlike most I view everything as a learning experience and can admit when I make a mistake. I screwed it up and now I have that knowledge to share with others. I was just questioning your sudden in depth knowledge after the fact is all. If you cant live with being questioned I don't know what to tell you..

 

[Floridianson]

You did remove the "Fuel control" assembly right ?

Then sometimes the "Quill Shaft Cover" can shift and catch the "plunger drive gear" . You will then have to pry out the hydraulic head. This will bend the cover, but you can bend it back once the head is off.

Greg # 2 DID make clear the head was one tooth off. Greg #1 aka Rustystud told him to pry off the head but Greg #1 never said anything about rotating the head back to where the head scribe / red mark and pointer were in line in the first post. Lets pretend that is was not a code G and Greg # 2 just went on what Greg #1 said in his first post Just pry it off. If myself or someone else did not tell / inform Greg # 2 that the head mark scribe/ and pointer must be on before removal then Greg #2 would have done damage to his quill shaft washer on a good IP. Not good with cost, time and trouble. That is why I put a thank you on Greg #2 post as this is what I thought he meant but is true. As for someone bending or finding a quill shaft washer bent then someone who did not know what they were doing tried to pull the head and bent the washer as the head scribe was not line up. Bad mistake and as for just bending it over after you bent it over yea you might get lucky and be able to make it work. If it broke the three tabs then you must go through the trouble of replacing the quill shaft. There is an old saying for those the can not do they go on disability and teach. But to be a good teacher one must think out side of the box and not assume anything with the military stuff . How often have we gone to the TM's but someone has done something dumb and replaced or not replaced whatever so we can not assume anything is correct with the military stuff and any pump could be on any motor.

 

[Elk1111]

On the G pump hydraulic head if you can’t find the kit to seal the oil port just do a light weld over it and very carefully with a dremel tool grind it smooth. Problem solved.

 

[Floridianson]

On the G pump hydraulic head if you can’t find the kit to seal the oil port just do a light weld over it and very carefully with a dremel tool grind it smooth. Problem solved.

It would be the IP housing not the head as the newer heads do not have the oil port. Would seem on the IP housing it would be the inside port. Then guess you could cut of some of the oil filter bolt that extends into head area / head and leave just the bolt with threads and sealing washer for the outside threaded passage. Pain to take out the whole IP but guess you could try and weld the inner port when the IP was still installed on the motor.