Head Gasket Repair

lino

Member
148
0
16
Location
Wake Forest, NC
There are many threads out there about fixing your head gasket, and I encourage all to search and find them. Lots of great info out there.

That said, I just did mine, and I collected a bunch of stuff I found and put it in one place (this thread) as well as adding a list of what I bought to do the repair.
(I didn't bother to credit where I got stuff. This is a mix of mine and other's info. Use at your own risk)
So, without further ado...

TM Numbers and sections:

Head Gasket Replacement:
TM 9-2320-209-34-2-1 Pages 72-135

Cylinder Head inspection/Repair
TM 9-2185-210-34-2-2 Page 227

From reading other posts:
"Check to be sure you have a TD marked block before you waste your time on an older engine. Have the injectors checked while they are out. Replace the freeze plugs in front and rear of the heads with. Have heads machined even if they look perfect, just a few thousandths. Check the valve seats by filling the ports with some solvent. you might as well do i right the first time and never have to do it again."


Tools:
1/2 drive rachet
9/16 socket
11/16 socket
7/8 socket
11/16 wrench with offset closed end
3/4 ratchet for head bolts
Small and large regular screwdriver
Extensions short and long for 1/2 drive
Containers for bolt sorting
Torque Wrench
Custom Head Bolt tool

Chemicals:
Copper spray gasket
penetrating oil
header paint
never-seize
Engine paint
distilled water
Anti-freeze



Parts:

Head Gasket Set.
Memphis Equipment $266
Part Number 5702678
includes all gaskets needed for headgasket repair

Coolant Hose:

Lower Radiator hose
Memphis Equipment $36
Part Number 10872023
Correct shape formed lower hose


All of the other hoses were common sizes available as straight hose. The large hoses are 2" and the manifold hoses were 1-3/4" (possibly 1-5/8, I reused old). The heater hoses (if you have a heater) are 5/8". I used silicone hose from Amazon (McMaster was expensive)


Thermostat:

thermostat is NAPA part number 358-180
THermostat Gasket NAPA 4662 (hard to get, I was able to use old one)


McMaster parts:

3/8" Square Drive 7/8" box end wrench
55015A29
$23
This tool was mentioned as viable for cyl head tightening. Was supposedly a rare find on ebay for $25 or so. McMaster in stock for less. BUT, it's too long. However, it worked great as the donor wrench for custom tool. See below for details.

Hardware:
I replaced a great deal of the hardware I removed as it was getting rusty. Not required, but I'm a picky guy. Here's what I bought. Don't have the list of where it went...

92620A582 50pcs $9.83
Grade 8 Steel Cap Screw, 5/16"-18 Fully Threaded, 7/8" Long, Zinc-Plated

91257A592 25pcs $8.07
Grade 8 Steel Cap Screw, 5/16"-18 Thread, 2-1/4" Long, Zinc-Plated

91257A593 25pcs $8.62
Grade 8 Steel Cap Screw, 5/16"-18 Thread, 2-1/2" Long, Zinc-Plated

91104A030 100pcs $3.63
Plated Split Lock Washer, Grade 8 Steel, 5/16" Screw Size, 0.322" ID, 0.583" OD

98023A030 50pcs $4.83
Plated Steel Flat Washer, Grade 8, 5/16" Screw Size, 0.344" ID, 0.688" OD

94895A810 100pcs $5.29
Plated Steel Hex Nut, Grade 8, 5/16"-24 Thread Size, 1/2" Wide, 17/64" High

94820A247 5pcs $9.91 You'll need 3 or 4 packs
Plated Steel Flex-Top Expanding Locknut, Hex, 7/16"-14 Thread Size, 5/8" Wide, 15/32" High
These are the exhaust manifold nuts - THESE MAY NOT BE RIGHT SIZE. I ordered wrong size at first, so check thread. These are the correct STYLE of nut.

54235K58 10pcs $14.40
301 Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Clamp for Soft Hose & Tube, 1-9/16" to 2-1/2" Clamp
Diameter Range, 9/16" Band Width

5097T41 $0.68/ft 25' min
D.O.T. Choose-A-Color Nylon Tubing for Air, Nonreinforced, .170" ID, 1/4" OD, .040" Wall
For injector return lines

Fittings for injector return lines:
Supplyhouse.com

1/4" Brass Compression Insert, Lead …
SKU: C74-100TLF Brand: Jones Stephens
$1.99
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-St...-Brass-Compression-Insert-Lead-Free-Bag-of-10

1/4" Lead Free OD Brass Pilot Line…
SKU: C74-158LF Brand: Jones Stephens
Part of Box of 10
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-Stephens-C74-158LF-1-4-Lead-Free-OD-Brass-Pilot-Line-Breakaway-Nut


Freeze Plugs:

The Dorman Part #'s are
555-012 (3/4" x 0.25”), Intake side of head, three per head
555-018 (1" x 0.26”), Front and back of head, two per head
555-024 (1 1/4" x 0.28”), Under rocker arms, three per head
555-069 (2” x 0.42”), block, five total

Worth noting is that Dorman plugs are made in China and are labeled as such. Perfectly fine quality, by all appearances, but the label bugs me. It was not a trivial cross reference, but the plugs I got from Napa were not stamped "China".



Custom Torque tool details:

Torque Wrench Adapter Calculator - CNCexpo.com
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx

C=D(A/A+B)

A=Length of wrench (measured from center of lug to center of handle)
B=Length of adapter (measured from center of lug to center of nut)
C=Torque Wrench setting
D=Desired torque at fastener

And some pics:
20151226_083307.jpg 20151226_083312.jpg 20151226_083324.jpg 20151226_083741.jpg

And here are some notes on the dimensions. The corner grinding was just enough to allow clearance.
20151226_083704.jpg 20151226_083429.jpg


Anyway, that's about the extent of my notes. I may try and come back and edit in some more details...

Hope they help.

ciao
lino
 

lino

Member
148
0
16
Location
Wake Forest, NC
So what is the best head gasket to get? Is there a certain brand, vintage, or revision that is preferred?


There are two types. The original, which has separate fire rings, and the "new style" which has integrated fire rings.
I didn't see evidence of different brands (but I could have missed that)

What I read, suggested that the new style is better, but I never found any real reason why.

Seems that both styles are still available.

The gasket that blew on my engine was the old style. It took out a 1" portion of both rings (and gasket) between #5 and #6. (and I never found the pieces)
What I put in was new style. 200 miles on it so far...

My heads took about 0.003" to clean up.
 

country

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,285
83
48
Location
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
The reason people seem to prefer the style with integrated fire rings is because the possible error of installing the rings upside down is removed

Otherwise they serve the identical purpose and the older style is considerably less costly

Dave
 

cowboyballer

New member
91
0
0
Location
monroe nc
Hey I got a quick ? I welded a wrench together
photo inclosed. Being the angle that is on the extinction does that effect the length that I enter into the calculator on the post on measure E do I just measure on the bottom of the tool from the center of the wrench to the center where the extinction is welded on if so I know that is 1 inch. Sorry not trying to confuse anyone if so I'm just asking about the angle it's welded on
 
Last edited:

WillWagner

Loose Nut
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,745
420
83
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
The reason people seem to prefer the style with integrated fire rings is because the possible error of installing the rings upside down is removed

Otherwise they serve the identical purpose and the older style is considerably less costly

Dave
Old style are old school, like 1930's technology and rely on compression to seal oil and coolant passages. the new style are like FelPro type gaskets, the oil and water passages are grommeted for sealing. They also do not require re torqueing.
 

helm1008

Member
59
4
8
Location
Maine
There are many threads out there about fixing your head gasket, and I encourage all to search and find them. Lots of great info out there.

That said, I just did mine, and I collected a bunch of stuff I found and put it in one place (this thread) as well as adding a list of what I bought to do the repair.
(I didn't bother to credit where I got stuff. This is a mix of mine and other's info. Use at your own risk)
So, without further ado...

TM Numbers and sections:

Head Gasket Replacement:
TM 9-2320-209-34-2-1 Pages 72-135

Cylinder Head inspection/Repair
TM 9-2185-210-34-2-2 Page 227

From reading other posts:
"Check to be sure you have a TD marked block before you waste your time on an older engine. Have the injectors checked while they are out. Replace the freeze plugs in front and rear of the heads with. Have heads machined even if they look perfect, just a few thousandths. Check the valve seats by filling the ports with some solvent. you might as well do i right the first time and never have to do it again."


Tools:
1/2 drive rachet
9/16 socket
11/16 socket
7/8 socket
11/16 wrench with offset closed end
3/4 ratchet for head bolts
Small and large regular screwdriver
Extensions short and long for 1/2 drive
Containers for bolt sorting
Torque Wrench
Custom Head Bolt tool

Chemicals:
Copper spray gasket
penetrating oil
header paint
never-seize
Engine paint
distilled water
Anti-freeze



Parts:

Head Gasket Set.
Memphis Equipment $266
Part Number 5702678
includes all gaskets needed for headgasket repair

Coolant Hose:

Lower Radiator hose
Memphis Equipment $36
Part Number 10872023
Correct shape formed lower hose


All of the other hoses were common sizes available as straight hose. The large hoses are 2" and the manifold hoses were 1-3/4" (possibly 1-5/8, I reused old). The heater hoses (if you have a heater) are 5/8". I used silicone hose from Amazon (McMaster was expensive)


Thermostat:

thermostat is NAPA part number 358-180
THermostat Gasket NAPA 4662 (hard to get, I was able to use old one)


McMaster parts:

3/8" Square Drive 7/8" box end wrench
55015A29
$23
This tool was mentioned as viable for cyl head tightening. Was supposedly a rare find on ebay for $25 or so. McMaster in stock for less. BUT, it's too long. However, it worked great as the donor wrench for custom tool. See below for details.

Hardware:
I replaced a great deal of the hardware I removed as it was getting rusty. Not required, but I'm a picky guy. Here's what I bought. Don't have the list of where it went...

92620A582 50pcs $9.83
Grade 8 Steel Cap Screw, 5/16"-18 Fully Threaded, 7/8" Long, Zinc-Plated

91257A592 25pcs $8.07
Grade 8 Steel Cap Screw, 5/16"-18 Thread, 2-1/4" Long, Zinc-Plated

91257A593 25pcs $8.62
Grade 8 Steel Cap Screw, 5/16"-18 Thread, 2-1/2" Long, Zinc-Plated

91104A030 100pcs $3.63
Plated Split Lock Washer, Grade 8 Steel, 5/16" Screw Size, 0.322" ID, 0.583" OD

98023A030 50pcs $4.83
Plated Steel Flat Washer, Grade 8, 5/16" Screw Size, 0.344" ID, 0.688" OD

94895A810 100pcs $5.29
Plated Steel Hex Nut, Grade 8, 5/16"-24 Thread Size, 1/2" Wide, 17/64" High

94820A247 5pcs $9.91 You'll need 3 or 4 packs
Plated Steel Flex-Top Expanding Locknut, Hex, 7/16"-14 Thread Size, 5/8" Wide, 15/32" High
These are the exhaust manifold nuts - THESE MAY NOT BE RIGHT SIZE. I ordered wrong size at first, so check thread. These are the correct STYLE of nut.

54235K58 10pcs $14.40
301 Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Clamp for Soft Hose & Tube, 1-9/16" to 2-1/2" Clamp
Diameter Range, 9/16" Band Width

5097T41 $0.68/ft 25' min
D.O.T. Choose-A-Color Nylon Tubing for Air, Nonreinforced, .170" ID, 1/4" OD, .040" Wall
For injector return lines

Fittings for injector return lines:
Supplyhouse.com

1/4" Brass Compression Insert, Lead …
SKU: C74-100TLF Brand: Jones Stephens
$1.99
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-St...-Brass-Compression-Insert-Lead-Free-Bag-of-10

1/4" Lead Free OD Brass Pilot Line…
SKU: C74-158LF Brand: Jones Stephens
Part of Box of 10
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-Stephens-C74-158LF-1-4-Lead-Free-OD-Brass-Pilot-Line-Breakaway-Nut


Freeze Plugs:

The Dorman Part #'s are
555-012 (3/4" x 0.25”), Intake side of head, three per head
555-018 (1" x 0.26”), Front and back of head, two per head
555-024 (1 1/4" x 0.28”), Under rocker arms, three per head
555-069 (2” x 0.42”), block, five total

Worth noting is that Dorman plugs are made in China and are labeled as such. Perfectly fine quality, by all appearances, but the label bugs me. It was not a trivial cross reference, but the plugs I got from Napa were not stamped "China".



Custom Torque tool details:

Torque Wrench Adapter Calculator - CNCexpo.com
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx

C=D(A/A+B)

A=Length of wrench (measured from center of lug to center of handle)
B=Length of adapter (measured from center of lug to center of nut)
C=Torque Wrench setting
D=Desired torque at fastener

And some pics:
View attachment 600576 View attachment 600577 View attachment 600578 View attachment 600579

And here are some notes on the dimensions. The corner grinding was just enough to allow clearance.
View attachment 600580 View attachment 600581


Anyway, that's about the extent of my notes. I may try and come back and edit in some more details...

Hope they help.

ciao
lino



Hello did you use copper spray on the new style head gasket? I've always love that stuff but was unsure weather to use it, looks like the new gasket already has sealer for water ports.
 

Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
330
231
43
Location
Denver, Colorado
Hello did you use copper spray on the new style head gasket? I've always love that stuff but was unsure weather to use it, looks like the new gasket already has sealer for water ports.
Negatory on the spray... From what I understand with the new-style gaskets, you want the surfaces clean and dry so the freshly mill-marked surface of the heads can "bite", emboss, and hold onto the gasket, and you want to get every spec of the old gasket, carbon, oil, etc, off every square milimeter of the deck to give the gasket the best chance it can have to seal. Scotchbrite pads work well to clean the last remaining remnants from the deck after scraping.
 
Last edited:

pitpawten

Member
175
19
18
Location
Centreville, Maryland
Hey I got a quick ? I welded a wrench together
photo inclosed. Being the angle that is on the extinction does that effect the length that I enter into the calculator on the post on measure E do I just measure on the bottom of the tool from the center of the wrench to the center where the extinction is welded on if so I know that is 1 inch. Sorry not trying to confuse anyone if so I'm just asking about the angle it's welded on
I'm also curious about this, I read about making a adjustments to torque calc for use of extensions and adapters but then when I watch guys online theyre typically just torquing without compensating for any of that
 

Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
330
231
43
Location
Denver, Colorado
I'm also curious about this, I read about making a adjustments to torque calc for use of extensions and adapters but then when I watch guys online theyre typically just torquing without compensating for any of that
I figure them engineer folks call out specific torque values for a reason, I'd use the calculator to get the proper torque...
https://belknaptools.com/extensions-calculator/
 
Last edited:

ldmack3

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
177
127
43
Location
Idaho
Found this:
" In the real world, when talking about extensions bars and their extremely high spring constants, that delay between applying force on one end and it being fully applied at the other is in a matter of milliseconds. For those paranoid, once the force is applied, hold it for one second and you will have given the bar many magnitudes more time than it needs. "

This pertains to a straight extension.

The offset you are rferrering to is measures as such :
1609952697736.png
With a 38" wrench and a 1 " offset 1 lb would be 1.02.

Couldn't find anything referring to less or greater than a 90deg.
 
Last edited:
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