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Head Gaskets/Freeze Plugs....It begins

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Garandfan

Member
278
3
18
Location
Northfield, Ohio
Well there was a delay on working on Big Ugly..... I had to have the 3/4" freeze plugs ordered! ARGHHHH! Order your freeze plugs prior to doing the work! I feel better about swapping them out though! They may look pretty on the outside, but man! The crud on the inside looked like barnacles on a ship! I did find a permatex type of sealer in ALL the bores and cleaning it out was tedious! A dremel with wire brush tip at low speed worked well along with acetone for final prep. I used the black permatex as a back up. One thing I did learn: The socket may work on some when installing, some on the other hand required driving them in with a brass hammer. These buggers took some sharp hits. Then when flush with the head, I used the rim of the socket against the rim of the freeze plug and tapped the plug into the correct depth. I'm sure some one here will tell me I did them all wrong, but I did not know a better way. Four more plugs to go cant stop now!
 
G

Garandfan

Member
278
3
18
Location
Northfield, Ohio
As for cleaning the pistons and sleaves, I was told by several good mechanics not to mess with them. Just vaccuum the crud out the best I can and WD-40 since they are dry.... Then install new head gasket and heads...... Should I duck and cover from the coming comments?:-?
 
G

Garandfan

Member
278
3
18
Location
Northfield, Ohio
ALSO. A BIG THANKS TO MY BUDDY WALT-DIESELSMOKEM35A2! YOU HAVE BEEN A HUGE HELP! AND THANK YOU AGAIN TO ALL THE MEMBERS WHO ARE CONTRIBUTING TO THIS POST! :beer: AND AGAIN, GET TO WORK ON YOUR HEAD GASKETS!:p

More info and pics shortly!
 
Last edited:
charlietango

charlietango

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
505
20
18
Location
Winnipeg
ooh this is what I wanted to know. The sleeves are apparently REALLY easy to change in these and I thought it would be worth while doing the wrist-pin bearings, rings and sleeves if the pistons are still in good shape. If it needs a re-bore at least you know now and not 100 miles later after all this work.

my opinion is it might be worth the inspection. it would be a **** shame after all the work you have done. I read the TM on removing that whole assembly and it looks simpler than the tasks you have already done. If it were me I would be taking that short block to a shop for bore analysis. easy for me to say but I also have a phantom engine tick that the turbo shop figures could be one of 6 things, 3 of them I just mentioned.
 
G

Garandfan

Member
278
3
18
Location
Northfield, Ohio
Just gonna leave well enough alone! If it came to the rotten shame of the motor grenading itself, the winch would go, the IP, the radiator, the compressor, the new master cylinder and brake booster, the cargo cover/top, the new doors, fenders, glass, etc, etc would be sold then rest for scrap. I then would open an account on GL and have a very healthy down payment and would max bid another good deuce in the tri-state area. I think I have learned enough to do a recovery.:grd:
 
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Garandfan

Member
278
3
18
Location
Northfield, Ohio
Worked on the truck Thursday and Friday... The oil pan sucked.... It does not go on the way it came out. Had to remove the oil pickup tube. Now it's just putting everything back on. Having a hard time with local parts stores not having the radiator hose sizes I need.
 
G

Garandfan

Member
278
3
18
Location
Northfield, Ohio
So I did NOT bust the wrench. Everything torqued to 157..... What a slow going process! The oil cooler, the tappet cover, the compressor, the manifolds and turbo, the rods, rockers (44 psi torque) are all back on. I am now in process of removing the radiator to clean and check. I'll have pics tomorrow. Am replacing all belts and hoses. 2" for radiator/water pump/turbo (need 18" long). 1" for turbo to oil drain (6" long), 1 5/8" for water outlet manifolds, better stock up! Using NAPA 7372 for lower radiator hose. Will cut off 1" on each end per another post from here.
 
G

Garandfan

Member
278
3
18
Location
Northfield, Ohio
Wife has the camera with my pics...... Will have to post later. I took the fan and the radiator off to accomplish a few things. 1. Turn the crank to adjust the valves (read TM 2815-210-34-2-2) using a 1 5/8 socket. Adjusting the valves was not that bad, just had to be patient. 2. To clean the radiator-what sludge! 3. To loosen the compressor pulley. I should have worked on it when the compressor was off, but I figured the PB Blaster would have worked.... It didn't! So I worked the dog ears apart with flat head screw driver... CAREFULLY! Then it finally came loose after an hour! 4. After the pulley nightmare, I put new belts on. After cleaning radiator, I then installed the lower hose on the block. I put the radiator with the screws resting on the mount. This allowed me to work the hose on the radiator. I think pulling the radiator makes it a ton easier to do the hose and belts. Plus you get to clean on the sludge.
 
G

Garandfan

Member
278
3
18
Location
Northfield, Ohio
I then reinstalled fan and the valve covers and made sure the TAC cable was out of the way of everything. I filled up the oil and coolant. After that, I hooked the exhaust pipe back up to the turbo. What a job! That flex line sucked and the clamps took awhile to cooperate. Then I hooked up the slobber tube and reinstalled the airbox with new filter. Then it was putting the brush guard back on, hooked up the batteries and bled out the fuel lines. I did a final check to make sure I didn't leave any tools anywhere.

I pulled the engine shut off and turned the motor over to work the compressor pulley and the cylinders a couple times. I was listening for any clanks or thuds. I rechecked the compressor pulley.

THEN PUCKER TIME! I said a quiet prayer and pushed the button. It took 3 times to fire up then she stayed running!!!! I was relieved. I let the motor run for about 20 minutes. Then filled in more coolant. I fired it up again and let it run for another 5 minutes then shut it down for the night. Tomorrow I'm gonna go thru it again.

One person can do this job. It took about 70 hours. And I am by no means a mechanic. Next I get to do this :driver:
 
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