head lights, blinkers, and brake lights wont work... M998

[par0thead151]

I received my truck yesterday and am very satisfied thus far with its overall condition.
The items needing repair/replace are the passenger front half shaft due to a non existent boot, missing 3 of the 4 doors(may get a slant back kit and X doors so thats a non issue) and the headlights, tail lights, and blinkers dont work. i have read that the ground could be a issue on these... but all 3 not working has me scratching my head...
im going to dig further into this sunday, any advice where to start after checking the bulbs and for voltage?

 

[Mike82ndABN]

I would suggest starting with the light switch, maybe clean up the connections or try swapping in a known good light switch.

On that note are you sure you are have the light switch in the correct position, they can be tricky to figure out if you haven't ever used it before. It disables the lights and horn for tactical reasons.

Also, don't wiggle or remove bulbs while the switch is in the on position, these 24v can arc pretty good and burn out a plastic disc in the base where the spring is. Ask me how I found that out.

 

[ari]

I had a similar situation with one of mine. there was water intrusion in both of the front turn signals and all the wiring inside was corroded I replaced them and all the lights started working. And the brake lights was a bad switch at the pedal.

 

[par0thead151]

roger that. i will take a look at the above. and avoid removing bulbs when the lights are in the ON position
is there a manual explaining the operation of all the switches? i would hate to assume its on while debugging it when its not.
the switch does have about 5 options, and only 2 of them are able to be flipped to.
im going to remove the switch housing and see if its corroded. also removing the other blinkers and headlights to check for water intrusion.
thanks

 

[Mike82ndABN]

If you can only get to two of them, then you probably arent on the right settings. The ones that turn on lights are locked out for tactical reasons. Move the unlock switch up, and while holding it up, move the top switch all the way to the right into the SERVICE DRIVE position.

 

[par0thead151]

the lock switch wont budge. i didnt want to force it... as switches should not need a ton of force to move it.
should have mentioned that lol

 

[Mike82ndABN]

It's spring loaded and should move up about half an inch. If you can't move the top switch to the right, then you aren't going to get lights.

I would trying wiggling the lock lever, while moving the top one around, maybe something inside the assembly is jammed, they kind of work together.

I think that before you go tearing into the wiring and chasing bad grounds, you should get the switch into the "service drive" position somehow. No idea if you can open the whole thing up.

 

[bikeman]

Try pressuring the Lock lever as you mess with the Service Drive switch. you might be able to feel the mechanics inside the switch work. If the only options you are able to get is the BO Light / BO Drive you won't get the normal lights. IF not, you'll need a new switch. You can read over the discussion of the push button versions vs. the lever versions.

Don't chase grounds or other issues yet. Sure you cna check to make sure they aren't corroded, but the switch needs to work first. Don't forget to check the TM for the troubleshooting for light issues.

 

[par0thead151]

well, im just a bit slow, my brother in law just showed me how to use the headlights. it was indeed locked out with the lock switch. that just needs to be lifted a little and the other switch moves to allow headlights to be on.
the blinkers were a bit odd as they were constant not blinking.
thanks everyone for the help. i cant wait to get the half shaft and get this vehicle 100% again

 

[par0thead151]

one more item found to be in need of repair is the rear tailgate. its rusted in place. i dont want to force it or it may bend where it should not.
i soaked it in penetrating oil. any other tips to get that free?

 

[Mike82ndABN]

on the end of the chains are two hooks. Unhook them.

 

[Mike82ndABN]

These trucks are pretty tough, 18 year old privates try to break them, pretty much anything stupid you can think of has probably already been done with your truck. So i wouldn't worry too much about prying the tailgate, it'll be fine, we airdrop these things.

If yours came from McCoy, it probably saw units rotating in and out each month, using them for annual and predeployment training. I guarantee they were rougher with it than you will ever be, like privates deliberately trying to break it.

Since you seem new to the platform, some things to keep in mind...
disconnect the battery when playing with electrical, especially the PCB start box
if you plan on taking off a wheel, its the inner 8 lug nuts, not the outer nuts, if you take off the outer nuts it can kill or maim you (unless you deflate the tire and remove the valve core for safety)
don't drive with the transfer case in L or HL, leave it in H
if the parking brake isn't adjusted, it will roll away
don't leave your lights on, you will kill your batteries
don't use starting fluid
don't leave the truck in the run position, unless its running
when you do the halfshaft, replace the 6 lock washers on the differential side, and the lock washer on the hub side. if any of those back out, it will break things.

 

[par0thead151]

thank you for the information. i do have quite a bit to learn before i dig into the half shaft, short of finding a step by step tutorial on the swap.
as for the tailgate, i did remove the 2 clips that hold it in place, the hinge is what is seized.

These trucks are pretty tough, 18 year old privates try to break them, pretty much anything stupid you can think of has probably already been done with your truck. So i wouldn't worry too much about prying the tailgate, it'll be fine, we airdrop these things.

If yours came from McCoy, it probably saw units rotating in and out each month, using them for annual and predeployment training. I guarantee they were rougher with it than you will ever be, like privates deliberately trying to break it.

Since you seem new to the platform, some things to keep in mind...
disconnect the battery when playing with electrical, especially the PCB start box
if you plan on taking off a wheel, its the inner 8 lug nuts, not the outer nuts, if you take off the outer nuts it can kill or maim you (unless you deflate the tire and remove the valve core for safety)
don't drive with the transfer case in L or HL, leave it in H
if the parking brake isn't adjusted, it will roll away
don't leave your lights on, you will kill your batteries
don't use starting fluid
don't leave the truck in the run position, unless its running
when you do the halfshaft, replace the 6 lock washers on the differential side, and the lock washer on the hub side. if any of those back out, it will break things.

 

[bikeman]

Soak it in PB Blaster, or something similar... then get in the truck and kick it...

If your turn signals aren't flashing I think it's the sender unit on the column. Do the hazards work? Wait for someone a tad more familiar to confirm the part diagnosis.

 

[turnertmb91]

1985 m1009 cucv k5 blazer: The Fuses are good, relays are good, bulbs are good, brake light switch good. All replaced. I have headlights, high and low beams, back up lights, parking lights, and tail lights, but still have no brake lights or turn signals.What did I overlook

 

[Action]

1985 m1009 cucv k5 blazer: The Fuses are good, relays are good, bulbs are good, brake light switch good. All replaced. I have headlights, high and low beams, back up lights, parking lights, and tail lights, but still have no brake lights or turn signals.What did I overlook

You may have overlooked the CUCV forum...

 

[BdotC]

Mike82ndABN - I have a problem with my three prong switch. The headlights won't turn on but brake lights/turn signals work. I took apart the switch and found a copper connection point was corroded. Problem is, the little copper contacts have fallen out from there positions in front of springs and I didn't get a chance to see where they go. Do you know where each contact goes in relation to the plastic portion of the switch? 5 contacts have fallen out (2 with three contacts and 3 with two contacts). I'll try to link a photo.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/album.php?albumid=4229&attachmentid=654303

I have a '94 M998A1