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Headlight swapping to Civi

coachgeo

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On last trip discovered one headlight out. (hi and low).. attempted to pull the light and the wires at each connector to truck harness to test with meter. That was a no go for they certainly did not want to separate even with a solid tug. Are these Pull-a-part, Packard like connectors or crimps? If Pull-a-Part then I'll know to tug harder to shoot for using meter to check which wire is which or if the issue is not the light but further up elsewhere in the harness.

Did search first but if I missed it feel free to point out link or keyword to help find the thread/post. While several post mentioned folks cut wires and spliced in 3 female spade connectors to fit prongs on standard 7" sealed headlight. Seem to recall in the search others spliced in a 3 slotted standard female headlight connectors instead. Unfortunately none of those post mentioned which wire was which.

Since could not last time check with meter, for quick attempt to fix....... Of those who've done the swap .... any hints on which military wire corresponds to which of the three civi headlight male ends..... Looked at it before but forget now if the wires leaving the back of the sealed military light were in a triangle formation or not. Seem to remember they were. If so does the back of the military light wire locations provide a solid hint; such as maybe wires leaving back of military sealed light are in same triangle formation as how they sit in a civi plug?

Since have one not working would like to plan ahead with a headlight ready to go when go to pick up truck in IL is why asking.

Much thanx in advance.
 
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coachgeo

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Here you go. Just tackled this today myself.
Much Thanks.

Did the pigtail off back of military light unplug from each wire in the harness or did you skip trying to pull apart the wires from the harness and just go with cutting and splicing right to the old light's pigtail
 

NDT

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The interior of the headlight bucket has three military bulkhead connectors for the rubber shell connectors. I will be soldering the wires from my broken bulbs to the new ones I just bought from the auto parts.
 

coachgeo

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The interior of the headlight bucket has three military bulkhead connectors....
Thanks. Being that it was after dark when discovered light out and trying to diagnose in dark of night using cellphone flashlight App... At that time didn't see any bulkhead connectors....... just what looked like a military grade wire crimp locking Light's pigtail to Trucks harness. hmmm....

Will investigate deeper when get to truck. IN DAYLIGHT this time lol.

Again THANKS.
 
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ZiggyO

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I might also add that the standard three prong civi socket can be had from a certain site that rhymes with "bay".... get the ceramic ones though--- they take heat better and last longer.......
 

Suprman

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I run H4 conversions with 90/100 watt offroad bulbs. Works great at night. The original 55 watt road lights just aren't enough to see where you are going. I have sets of small 35 watt all metal hid lights with thick glass lens that fit in the bumper cutouts I am gong to be installing them in my trucks when I get a chance. The hids have a longer throw than the LEDs.
 

Suprman

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image.jpgPainted the fronts. They fit in perfectly just take out the blackout light. If you have a winch they wont work though since the winch uses one of the openings.
 

Overdrive

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I swapped in Sylvania SilverStar H4 bulbs using the three prong ceramic H4 connectors and soldered on the military pigtails from the stock military lights. Works great!

OD
 

Oxyacetylene

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I swapped in Sylvania SilverStar H4 bulbs using the three prong ceramic H4 connectors and soldered on the military pigtails from the stock military lights. Works great!

OD
I was thinking about doing this too. I already have H4 conversion housings and wiring, but they are kind of dim with the regular bulbs. I am thinking either silverstars or chance a pair of H4 LED bulbs from the 'bay.
 

coachgeo

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Found finally an image am confident in of the pin out of H6024 Halgen light said to drop in nicely. Obviously the wire colors and schematic are not matching to FMTV trucks but it shows the headlight pin out of the H6024 clearly. Now to find the wire numbers to match

HeadLightCkt.gif
 
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coachgeo

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Just an FYI H6024 sealed headlight specs


  • 65 watt high 35 watt low beam
  • 7 inch diameter
  • 12 Volt bulb
  • Halogen light bulb
 
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coachgeo

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NDT's pic is spot on....... H6024's are a drop in replacement for the
mil headlight (in 12volt for the lmtv)....
Z
ZiggyO's comment saying the photo is correct and the diagram above put together should point you to what wire # matches what function on the bulb. May be needed if you want to swap to bulb with separate housing later like Superman has done. Read a few places where folk who did a sealed beam headlight conversions had to pull from back of socket a couple female wire ends and swap them in the socket to match the bulb that fits the housing they purchased. Ground seemed to fall in a different location on some bulbs compared to their sealed beam lights
 
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Suprman

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Just got a pair made by candlepower. ARB makes a nice one I think if I need more I will
go with those they have good reviews. I prefer the Hella 12volt 90/100 watt bulbs. Use good ceramic sockets you can crimp the mil packard connectors right onto the leads. Stay away from all the ones made to look fancy or have secondary city light bulb or leds in them.
 
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