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Headlights flashing on and off

pbrstreetgang

Member
114
0
16
Location
Kentucky
head light issue

lights going out, 30 amp fuses burning out.
pulled lights, found a short, taped it up, cleaned all terminals and battery terminals with brass brush and diaelectric grease - also did the same for all of the in dash bulbs, ground wires under the hood, rear brake and reverse lights.

Fuses not popping anymore, but lights were doing crazy things so I pulled the old switch and put in a new one.

all of the weird stuff is now ok with wires patched and the switch replaced

now lights are flashing, power on - power off. when the lights are on high beam the high beam indicator light also flashes on and off which tells me they are losing power somewhere at a short.

Where do the lights receive power from so I can check for a short
 

1986Blazerk5

New member
443
1
0
Location
Brighton,MI
This might sound weird but mine did this, the problem was not a short, but a bad conection between the fuze and fuze block if i jiggled the fuze it would come back on
 

Jonas

New member
53
0
0
Location
Stockholm/Sweden
Ive had the same problem, no lights/turn signals.
The fuseholder for the 30amp fuse for the ligths had gotten "soft" not holding on to the legs of the fuse too well.
 

airmech3839

Member
842
5
18
Location
Augusta, GA
check grounds as well.. i was having issues with a buddies 1009 and his block ground was broken and the only ground that was hooked up was a small wire by the radiator to the block... made lights dim and flicker... If the block is melted or has damaged terminals then you should try and replace it. You could adjust the prongs for the fuse a little by diconnecting batts and using small flat tip screwdriver and try and pry them back together... just be real careful not to break the prongs and not damage holder...

just my opinion and am not to be held accountable for damage to persons or property.... that should make you trust me huh....:grin:rofl
 

Rich Johnson

Member
175
0
16
Location
San Diego CA
your current problem sounds like a bad connection.

If you kept blowing 30 amp fuses before, your fuse prongs are likely soft from heating up and loosing thier "Spring" ability to grip the fuse. Try this, find both of the wires out of the fuse block that go to that fuse. Go to The auto part sotore and get an inline fuse block, some spade plugs, and some clip on wire connectors,(they clip over a wire so you can attach another wire to them). Attach add these clip on connectors to the leads in and out of the fuse block, then put the new inline fused wire into the two clip on plugs. You will now havce a new fused circut bypassing the bad one in the box.
 
408
0
16
Location
Colo.
I'm having the same problem, although I haven't been blowing the 30amp fuse. I've added another substantial ground from the bus to the block, checked all wires leading to the lights, cleaned up all the other grounds, and am scared to drive at night. I think I'll rig accessory lights directly as a backup to see if that solved the problem, that way when (if) they go out again, I'll be able to see enough to pull over.

Please keep me updated on your progress and I'll do likewise.
 

1986Blazerk5

New member
443
1
0
Location
Brighton,MI
I'm having the same problem, although I haven't been blowing the 30amp fuse. I've added another substantial ground from the bus to the block, checked all wires leading to the lights, cleaned up all the other grounds, and am scared to drive at night. I think I'll rig accessory lights directly as a backup to see if that solved the problem, that way when (if) they go out again, I'll be able to see enough to pull over.

Please keep me updated on your progress and I'll do likewise.
Happened to me when i was going down a dark dirt road, but i had off-roading lights and turned them on and pulled over and fixed it
 
408
0
16
Location
Colo.
Happened to me when i was going down a dark dirt road, but i had off-roading lights and turned them on and pulled over and fixed it
Let's just say mine went out at a perfectly inopportune time as well, coming down a narrow curvy steep grade at 1 a.m. out of Telluride with no room to pull over.

The weird thing was that if I kept the rpm's really high, they would come back on. I don't know if it was just the rattling of the engine that created some jiggle factor, or just the CUCV god's offering me a twisted proposition: either drive at a prudent speed for the grade and be blind, or floor it and see my fate.
 

wallew

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,520
18
38
Location
San Angelo, Tx USA Planet Earth
Could be a specific ground wire under the drivers side dash.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/36339-electrical-gods-smiled-me-today.html

And don't feel bad, I too had problems figuring my electrical problems out. But after a while you get used to where to look and what to look for and well, you know, you fix it and just keep on goin...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/30979-cucv-alternators-im-still-confused.html

But these trucks ARE easy to work on. Once you get it all straightened out and back to it's original 24v configuration you SHOULD get years of pleasurable service from it.

At least that's what I have experienced. Don't let the frustration get to you.

And has been said here before:

If it's RUBBER - REPLACE IT

If it's ELECTRICAL - REBUILD IT

just sayin...
 

pbrstreetgang

Member
114
0
16
Location
Kentucky
Checked the TM - not there

Two months in, still no driving at night because lights go in and out and flash. The power is getting
interrupted somewhere. I have been through all of the grounds in the truck, brushing, cleaning, diaelectric grease.
All relays have been pulled and greased. Went trough entire blackout system and cleaned all terminals up.

Headlights let on do not flash. When the vehicle is started and left running and heated up for 10 minutes they start
flashing away. I have enjoyed working on this truck. I have done my due dilligence in seeking out the cause to
this problem and I cant find the problem, but i know that it will be small and obvious when I do.

i am now thinking of bringing in proessional help

any suggestions
 

Hogg

New member
93
1
0
Location
Ardmore, OK
Not trying to steal this thread, but I had something odd happen in my M1009 Sat night, was driving on the deer lease and ALL my lights went out completely for about 15 seconds while shutting a gate. Then I saw a small spark under the dash on the drivers side and everything came back on and stayed on all the way home... (35 miles)... Any suggetions as to what could have caused it or what happened???
 

2deuce

Well-known member
1,453
116
63
Location
portland, oregon
If its just the headlights flashing on and off and your truck has been sitting its probably the high/low switch getting corrosion in it. (That can happen in your light switch also). Work that thing 100 times and it will get better. If they go out when your driving flick that switch a couple of times, if they come back on, that's probably it. The more the switch is worked the less the problem. That's my experience. If its tailights, turn signals, anything other than headlights you have another problem.
 

2deuce

Well-known member
1,453
116
63
Location
portland, oregon
You don't need to remove it just work it. I was told to do this and my switch and headlights now work like they should. I would at least give it a try. The switch is mounted on the outside of the column. Work the lever, you'll see the rod move and work the switch.
 
Last edited:
408
0
16
Location
Colo.
Except in my case the pull towards you bright lights plastic thingie is broke. I'm stuck on high. I can't believe for an 80's vehicle there isn't a floorboard high beam. I've got an '89 F250, and that is on the floor. Were they trying to thing beyond their time?

More crap in the steering column = fail. I think I'll just wire a dedicated switch. On my CUCV, there is a lot of failure going on right there. Want to see the lamest windshield wiper, or God forbid, fluid. Just look to that little lever on your left.
 
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