Heater core replacement

[acesneights1]

No prob, hope it helps. I always do lot's of pics.

 

[lindyp38]

when u replaced ur inner fender well.....did u have to drill new holes for battery supports....?

any additional info....as ill be replacing mine.........thanks

 

[ARYankee]

Lucky for me, mine has already been taken apart I need to find a heater core and blower unit. Any ideas where I can get NOS or a take out instead of the aluminum one.

 

[cjtroutt]

Not that bad just use PB blaster on the studs where it bolts on the bulk head.

 

[TCUCV]

I think my heater core is starting to leak, where would I take it to get it rebuilt?
If I can't rebuild it, has anyone tried this NAPA replacement?
NAPA AUTO PARTS)

 

[kenz5380]

I used the replacement and it sucks. It puts out about half the heat of the stock piece. If I was you I would take my original in to a radiator shop to see if they can repair it.

 

[Aramark]

I too would like to know where to get a heat core rebuilt.

 

[cliffyp]

I recently replaced mine. I don't use heat, so I can't attest to how well it works. I can say that it is the exact same size as the original. As someone stated earlier, the inlet & outlet are just slightly moved and the strap doesn't quite fit right. I just bent the strap a little and it all went together fine.

One thing I'll mention is to make sure you ask for a heater core from a k30 WITHOUT A/C. I didn't specify this at first and there is no way what they gave me was going to fit. No big deal, just an extra trip to the store.

 

[CPAPPY]

Just put one in mine and took less than a hour . I bought one from Oriellys auto part and it was all alum. and came with seals . I also bought one from Autozone it was copper and was real nice I decided to use the one I bought for Autozone it was the correct size also. Both was approx. $ 24.00 . It actually took a little longer that a hour because I wash all the mice crap out of the box. Removing the battery is the best way.

 

[natemccabe]

I have also replaced my heater core with the aluminum POS core. I am now regretting it having highs of 0 around here at the moment. Anyone know of where to get a NOS replacement?

 

[Hasdrubal]

5 years ago mine failed. I went to my local parts store and they had a copper one in stock. Looked the same, pumps lots of heat. If someone wants I could look up the part number.

 

[stationjj]

I replaced my heater core recently. As per the advice on this site I wanted a copper/brass heater core. I pulled a heater core from a junk yard and had it cleaned, Flushed, and repaired. Cost me $45 total.

CycleJay recently did a heater over haul. In his post he listed part numbers. Just FYI if your going to replace motor and such.

stationjj

 

[CycleJay]

StationJJ,

Thanks for the mention.
So far I just replaced the blower motor switch, but I plan to work on the rest within the next couple of paychecks..
What caused my blower motor to not function was a bad switch, the old switch was burned and melted.

Now I get heat when it is on, but not much, it just blows warm, but comfortable. So I am going to have my heater core redone at a local radiator shop,
instead of buying one of those aftermarket POS cores, unless I can find a copper core locally that will fit correctly.

But I still plan on replacing the blower motor, fan, resistor/capacitor (what the wiring harness connector connects to).

So that way, when all is said and done, nothing should be able to go wrong with it, since it will all be new and/or rebuilt.
And then I should be able to cook a Thanksgiving turkey too.. LOL

Just my $0.02 cents...

 

[stationjj]

CJ

Yea, all heater electrical should be great now? A CUCV with electrical problems imagine that! HAHA! If it wasn't for the electrical gremlins I would be bored.

I got my heater overhauled it works so much better now. I replaced heater core, heater switch, blower motor and fan, and the motor resistor.

I bet your heater core is clogged. The heater on the CUCV was clogged and sprung many leaks in the coils. It was beyond simple repair. So I pulled one from a junk yard $15. It was clogged, and 1 minor repairable leak. The cleanup, flushing, and repair cost me $30.

They repair shop advised me I might be able to buy a new one cheaper. I told them I didn't want a china made aluminium heater core. They laughed and said don't you know everything is made in China? SAD!

Good Luck,

stationjj

 

[cpallme]

My heater seems to work fairly well, blows hard and fairly hot air for the most part. I think the switch may be on the way out because the air will go from hot to cold at random intervals. I haven't gotten the chance to tear into it and see what could be the problem but while I'm down there should I get the core flushed as well? Just for good measure? Also open to any suggestions about the possible switch failure or other causes to my problem.

Thanks in advance,
cpallme

 

[ARYankee]

The replacement that I got from a fellow member is now leaking. I'm going to pull it when I get home and have some time. I'll try and see if it is salvageable, if not I'll pick up one from Autozone. I will be removing the battery and holder plus the glovebox to make it easier to remove.

 

[Keith_J]

The original heater cores are a bit different than what civy parts catalogs list. This is another part that differs. I have one that I am getting ready to fix and stumbled on this thread.

 

[CycleJay]

Keith_J,

I have read about that, and noticed it too.
That is why when I get to working on the heater, I will have my heater core serviced at a local radiator shop.
So I can keep my original core if possible. Because it blows now, just lukewarm, not hot enough to cook a turkey. LOL

Just to let everyone know, I have not replaced any of the heater parts yet, except for the blower switch.
But I will as soon as time and money permit. I have looked at my heater box behind the battery, read the TM's,
and it does not look that difficult to replace the blower motor, and the blower resistor and capacitor, etc.

Just my $0.02 cents...

 

[Keith_J]

So where is the typical failure point? Header tank or core? Corrosion or pressure failure? I would feel leery with fixing corrosion damage.

 

[Skinny]

I just pulled mine after seeing a pool of antifreeze on my passenger floorboard. To anyone that is searching how to do this...you DO NOT need to pull batteries, fuel filters, inner fender liners, etc.

If you have a long 1/4" drive extension and swivel you will be living the dream. Only a handful of nuts and bolts, this core practically jumps out in your lap compaired to anything else on this planet. Every core I looked up was an aluminum unit which looked nothing like the OEM unit. I took mine down to the local radiator shop. After he explained a replacement would be $20, he then apoligized and said most customers are not intelligent. We got the OEM unit recored for $80 and I should be picking it up on Monday. Score!