Help. Electrical Problem After IP Change.

[dagsurplus]

After installing new IP, I attached everything but the intake manifold in order to check for leaks before total reassembly. Attached the three wires near the fuel filter--the large ground wire coming from 24 V negative block, the gold braided wire, and the other one-- to the engine block. Hooked up the new batteries that got charged last night; got 24 and 12 volts at appropriate blocks, solenoids, and relays I checked in the engine compartment. but absolutely nothing in the cab. Nothing at the fuse block. Turn the key on and there's nothing; no sounds, no clicks; nothing; as if batteries disconnected. Fuses all OK. All electrics worked perfectly before I started IP removal/installation. Any help is sincerely appreciated.

 

[Warthog]

You need 12v from the battery to the diamond shaped 12v terminal block next to the master cylinder.

Are you positive on hoocking up the batteries correctly?

 

[dagsurplus]

Warthog. There are 12V at that terminal block.

 

[bigginstactical]

Check then recheck all your grounds. As stated before are you sure your batteries are hooked up properly? Did you ground the the alt on drivers side? Its supposed to ground to the intake manifold which you state you left off.

 

[dagsurplus]

Biggin. It's approaching 100F so my thinking may be a bit clouded but I think the batteries are connected properly; I do get 24V at 24V block and 12 at 12V block. The driver's side alternator is grounded at the front of the engine to the cooling water manifold; was not disconnected during IP replacement.

 

[doghead]

Check you fuses, especially the bottom most fuse.

 

[dagsurplus]

Check you fuses, especially the bottom most fuse.

All fuses checked. All look fine. Bottom one (10A) replaced anyway. Nothing.

 

[doghead]

Did you remove the batteries prior to the work?

What wires were removed during the work?

Can you post some pictures?

 

[bigginstactical]

I was probably mistaken. Long day chasing my electrical gremlins also. Any voltage change with the ignition on? I agree pics would be helpful.

 

[dagsurplus]

In trying to think about what I could have done during the IP removal/installation to cause this problem, the most obvious things are electrical connections, which I've cleaned and rechecked and they all seem fine. The only other seemingly material things I did during the IP stuff was lay on the engine, jostle some electric lines during injection line removal, and move the truck 1 ft by pushing it in N. To do this, I had to fiddle with the column gear shifter since the gear indicator is broken; you have to fish for N to find it. I wonder if there is a switch in the steering column that enables starting only in P and N that somehow is now screwed up.

 

[dagsurplus]

Batteries disconnected during IP work. Only wires removed were the three attached to the IP and the three at the back of engine near fuel filter: large black 24V ground, gold mesh, and other wire. All now connected to block. Here are some photos:

 

[2002ford]

Try the Dog Head Mod. If the factory part goes bad or is disconnected it will do the same thing. If you do the mod you will at least take out an issue before it happens. I found this out on my M1031. Good luck.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

No, don't start swapping parts!

Your voltmeter will tell you if the starter relay is good or bad. IF it's bad, THEN replace it.

All fuses checked. All look fine. Bottom one (10A) replaced anyway. Nothing.

"Looks fine" means nothing with glass tube type fuses. Check them with a meter. If there are no jolts at all anywhere at the fuse box, your problem is somewhere else.

 

[dagsurplus]

Try the Dog Head Mod. If the factory part goes bad is disconnected it will do the same thing. If you do the mod you will at least take out an issue before it happens. I found this out on my M1031. Good luck.

Totally agree; that the first things I did when the truck first came of the trailer; Doghead Mod. Doubt that the new Doghead relay has gone bad with 0 miles.

 

[dagsurplus]

No, don't start swapping parts!

Your voltmeter will tell you if the starter relay is good or bad. IF it's bad, THEN replace it.





"Looks fine" means nothing with glass tube type fuses. Check them with a meter. If there are no jolts at all anywhere at the fuse box, your problem is somewhere else.

All fuses already checked for continuity.

 

[bigginstactical]

Where the three wires near the fuel filter grounded to the block before the change or the fire wall and you just grounded them to the block?

 

[dagsurplus]

Where the three wires near the fuel filter grounded to the block before the change or the fire wall and you just grounded them to the block?

They were grounded to the intake manifold.

 

[dagsurplus]

PROBLEM SOLVED. I must tell you that all my Volt Meter investigation did not solve the problem; it was solved with DIVINE INTERVENTION. After about 3 hrs of Volt Meter work, I decided to start at the beginning, at the batteries, check these new ones (manufactured Feb., 2013) under a load. I searched all local stores for a good load tester; nothing. Ordered a Midtronics one to arrive on Tues. After an hour of thinking about the truck, I knew I could not wait until Tues. so I loaded those monster batteries in my car for a trip to the auto parts store for testing. As I lifted the one closest to the firewall out and started to hobble away, I noticed the bare end of a large, red jacketed wire pointed straight out of the engine compartment. See Photo 1. It was the wire from the Neg. side of that battery; the 12V supply for the diamond-shaped 12V block near the master cylinder that Warthog had earlier said to check and I did. It was 12V; it was always 12V each of the probably 6 times I checked today. However, it was NOT the 12.8V measured at the battery. These 12 volts simply did nothing under even a minor load. It took the unseen hand of the Devine to let that wire slide out of the poorly crimped cooper connector at the battery terminal (see photo). Got my trusty, mega power crimper to do the job right, shined everything up, attached battery connections, tried lights and wha lah; light. Timidly started truck, got starter action. After about 10 off/on starter tries, the engine roared to life. Big bonus; no leaks detected at the IP; will check further tomorrow in the sun.

I want to thank all of you who took the time to offer advice. It was all sincerely appreciated.

 

[bigginstactical]

Yay!

 

[doghead]

Could you post a picture of the crimper you used?