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HELP - stranded in Petaluma CA

*Petaluma* - clumsy fiingers!

Was rebuilding my passenger side alternator - was being the operative word. The rear case is now cracked (badly) - my faullt while trying to remove the end bearing per TM's by pressing inward. Well, lightly tapping with a hammer and socket actually. Roadside repair in a parking lot at my PT job so not in a proper shop with tools etc.

Also while removing the alternator one of the wires hit the case and arced - sending smoke up from the upper buss bar. So what have I likely fried......

DOH!!!

So I am now in need of a rear case casting - anyone have one they could FEDEX? Or pickup in the North Bay area? And I'm guesing a fusible link as well...

also - the CUCVElectric kit only has one large capacitor - and the TM's ony show one, but I had a second on the OUTSIDE of the case. Does this also need to be replaced? If so, what size is it so I can get one.

Need to be on the road by the PM of the 19th if I want to keep my FT job. I know I can run it for a while on battery - assuming it will start with whatever I shorted out not yet replaced - but not far enough (to Portland at night) I think.

Ken 800-800-1419 (cell)
 
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cpf240

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The external cap is a noise suppressor, and is not needed unless you get noise over your radio. So, its fine to leave it off.

Cart, horse, barn door, etc.... should always disconnect the batteries when doing electrical work.

I'm sorry, but I don't have a spare to send. The passenger side alt is responsible for the rear battery, which only runs the starter and glow plugs. You may get a several starts out of it before it won't turn over anymore.

You could buy a "normal" alternator and install it on the drivers side, and use the drivers side alt on the passenger side, assuming the drivers alt is still an isolated ground one.

Good luck!
 
But by your own sig line, I guess you don't own this truck?
Judging by my stupidity in not disconnecting the batteries first - maybe I shouldn't!

Although I did find signs of old arcing inside the alternator I was planning to rebuild... Probably that's why I always lost charge on the rear battery - the alt was dead. But still wondering what I fried - glow plugs? controller board? fusible link? nothing just overheated before current was shut off? Relays?

Changed both the GEN 2 and voltmeter relays. Don't have a spare glow plug relay though. Starts for now, but no glow plug lamp or relay click.... Weirdly, the voltmeter is now nicely in the green wheras before when GEN2 was in the truck it was always in the yellow.
 
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Warthog

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If the wire that touched was the Red with Wt\hite stripe taht attaches to the passenger GEN2 ground post, it should be only be the fusible link for that wire. It attaches to the 12v Engine Wiring Harness Block next to the master cylinder.

It it was the solid red wire then it is the 24v feed and attaches to the 24v terminal block behind the rear battery. (rereading your first post, it sounds like this is the wire).

Both of the fusible links are a light blue color and are size 12 gauge.
 

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@Warthog: Lets hope the fusible link did it's job and protected the glow plug controller! Thatks for the info will save me a bunch of hassle trying to figure out which one fried - hard to stay clean and do that while working... Now to NAPA.

@CUCVNut: If you are in the area that is great - I'm on the CCT ambulance so am all over the N Bay area but mostly between Santa Rosa and UCSF and east to Vacaville. If you have one to sell that would be sweet! Don't get to San Jose that often but could likely arrange a drop off or meet to save you some driving. Or could even fedex - it would probably arrive by Tuesday-ish What would you want for one plus your time?
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Schertz TX
I may be able to weld the cracked case if you have all the parts. Even if the bearing bore has to be machined out, it will save an alternator from the junk heap.

Castings like this weld easily.
 

skark_burmer

Member
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18
Location
San Jose, Ca
*Petaluma* - clumsy fiingers!

Was rebuilding my passenger side alternator - was being the operative word. The rear case is now cracked (badly) - my faullt while trying to remove the end bearing per TM's by pressing inward. Well, lightly tapping with a hammer and socket actually. Roadside repair in a parking lot at my PT job so not in a proper shop with tools etc.

Also while removing the alternator one of the wires hit the case and arced - sending smoke up from the upper buss bar. So what have I likely fried......

DOH!!!

So I am now in need of a rear case casting - anyone have one they could FEDEX? Or pickup in the North Bay area? And I'm guesing a fusible link as well...

also - the CUCVElectric kit only has one large capacitor - and the TM's ony show one, but I had a second on the OUTSIDE of the case. Does this also need to be replaced? If so, what size is it so I can get one.

Need to be on the road by the PM of the 19th if I want to keep my FT job. I know I can run it for a while on battery - assuming it will start with whatever I shorted out not yet replaced - but not far enough (to Portland at night) I think.

Ken 800-800-1419 (cell)
Ken, still need one?
I can take one off my truck for you and sell it for whatever the market rate is for these so i can replace it. (i have no idea)
No charge for my time. I am also in San Jose and can deliver it this weekend for a 6 pack of delicious beer. :)
Lemme know
Jeff
 
Update: 2 busy days at work left little time to do much - but was able to get the fusible links replaced (I think I got all the damaged ones) so now I have glow plugs and their timer/lamp etc working, power to the Gen 2 leads as it is supposed to be) and it starts! So as long as I have a battery charger I should be good to go if I don't start it too often.

Hoping to link up with a couple of very helpfull SS members by phone/email or in person to buy or borrow an alternator,. Also was linked up with a very helpfull tech at Lehr Auto electric in Sacramento who thinks he can find not only a rear case half - but likely an uprated stator etc that will allow future upgrading to a higher current output. More on this development later - we are hoping to get 200amps out of each alt...

Lehr Auto Electric & Emergency Equipment - Service Repair - Sacramento, Rancho, Cordova, Folsom, Citrus Heights, Woodland
 
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