Help - Water drained from rear oil pan plug

[pitpawten]

Any news? Did you get it fired up?

I'm helping to run a VBS at our church this week so have had little time but my torque converter wrench came in the mail yesterday which is basically like a boxed end crowfoot wrench for torquing the head studs underneath the rocker arm

I'm right now taking a load of tires and rims to the tire place to have them swapped out for the deuce and looks like tomorrow morning will be my retorque and button up morning

 

[rustystud]

I'm helping to run a VBS at our church this week so have had little time but my torque converter wrench came in the mail yesterday which is basically like a boxed end crowfoot wrench for torquing the head studs underneath the rocker arm

I'm right now taking a load of tires and rims to the tire place to have them swapped out for the deuce and looks like tomorrow morning will be my retorque and button up morning

Helping out at "Vacation Bible School" can be a lot of fun and extremely draining all at the same time !

 

[pitpawten]

Bolt number three in the torque sequence on the rearward head was the only one that was not to spec torque it also happens to be the one right over top of the cylinder that had the coolant in it

I retorqued to 140 lbft but stopped short of the recommended 157 because it didn't seem like it was getting any tighter and I didn't want to stretch or break a head stud (maybe already stretched?)

 

[cattlerepairman]

If your engine block is a "TD" casting, the bolts should all be tightened to the higher specs. One reason for re-designing the block and going to the "thick deck" was that the engines were blowing head gaskets like they were going out of style. The clamping force provided by the head studs was not sufficient on the earlier design. I believe - and may be wrong - that the old style gaskets on non-TD blocks called for 130 ftLbs.

Yes, over-tightening is not a good idea, but tightening to spec is. Whether 140 vs 157 makes a real-world difference, I can't say.

 

[pitpawten]

Got it buttoned up to the point I could spin the motor today with injectors out and expelled coolant from number 5 cylinder.

Injectors are back in as well as return lines working on cleaning up the fuel filter assembly before reinstalling and bleeding the fuel system for the help of the first start tomorrow morning

One slight mishap was me misreading pound inches for pound feet and over torquing two of the valve cover bolts and slightly deforming the cover not to the point that I believe the gasket was damaged or all the RTV seeped out but kind of a DOH moment

 

[cattlerepairman]

The suspense is killing me! lol

 

[pitpawten]

Just now in bed at the end of the evening after starting it 7:30 so not a lot of energy left for a write-up but got everything blood out and buttoned back up and after diagnosing a dead start switch it came right to life and sounded great.

No gases to speak of at either the oil or radiator caps but haven't crack the bottom of the pan to see if there was any water / coolant in it either.

I do know that checking the oil looked absolutely clear on the dipstick after having run it.

Just filled with water at this point from the hose to start getting the system to flush so need to drain it again and put coolant in and will check the oil at that point

Right now it's barefoot since I'm doing the seals bearings brakes on everything but was able to drive it to a shop location to work on it which is the first time it's moved in 3 years

Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions

 

[pitpawten]

Closing the loop, ran the truck last Saturday and then had it on jack stands all week while doing hubs.

This morning I cracked the oil drain plug and no water or coolant just nice oil so nothing drained down over the week.

Here's to running it and torquing the heads having sealed up whatever had been slowly leaking...time will tell.

I will say that it barely even gets up to temp unless I run it for now than 15 minutes or so, so definitely no issues with cooking it doesn't seem.

 

[87cr250r]

At idle it can take engines quite a while to come up to temp. This isn't ideal. It can also be caused by bad thermostats.

Since the water in the oil isn't back it's probably ingestion through the intake or exhaust.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Glad to hear that you are back up and running!

 

[ToddJK]

Sounds normal, mine takes a bit to get up to temp, about 15-20 mins, give or take depending on the days temperature.