Desert Rat
New member
- 2,314
- 5
- 0
We want pics.! We want pics.! We want pics.! We want....................... MORE pics.!
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Help with dash at night
- Thread starter n3uka
- Start date
rmgill
Active member
- 2,479
- 14
- 38
- Location
- Decatur, Ga
Hey Bjorn, wouldn't it make sense to move the headlights to a relay with it's own breaker? That's take the largest amperage draw off the 3 lever switch. You could make it a pretty easy modification with a single relay for each lamp with a separate wire bundle. That way you don't have to cut the harness behind the 3 lever.
mangus580
New member
- 6,010
- 282
- 0
- Location
- Western NY
Ryan, wouldnt that require 2 relays for each headlight? one for each of low and high beam on each bulb?
- 10,350
- 77
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Ryan, posted a schematic last week:
http://steelsoldiers.com/DotNetForum/default.aspx?f=43&m=21064
It's hard to find some of these posts after a few days...
http://steelsoldiers.com/DotNetForum/default.aspx?f=43&m=21064
It's hard to find some of these posts after a few days...
mangus580
New member
- 6,010
- 282
- 0
- Location
- Western NY
I think what Ryan was saying, was to use relays up near the headlights, so as to not 'butcher' the wiring harness to use your schematic. which would work just fine, but require 4 relays... or I suppose you could grab the wires right before the dimmer switch... maybe thats what you were suggesting Bjorn? minds a little foggy, too much programming lately....
- 10,350
- 77
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Mike, one relay will do it. Just "grab" it before the dimmer switch as shown in the drawing.
mangus580
New member
- 6,010
- 282
- 0
- Location
- Western NY
Like I said... too much programming.... :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
Iron Mike
New member
- 11
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Western Missouri
Have you considered soldering halogen 4-12 watt 12V pairing them in series?
I had done this in my M37, but the switch felt hot, so I added a 500k pot.
It made the red gauges jump out too brightly.
I could see my reflection in the windshield better than the hood, on full "power" with the dimmer knob.
You wouldn't believe where I found them the cheapest, only $1.50 ea; Walmart.
Don't forget; wire'em in series - paired up. Lower 4 watters were the lowest heat in the bulb casing.
Step two, the bright LEDs in fixed positon cans, aiming directly at the needles. Use almost no amperage
and can control any gauge individually for priority lighting, wired up seperately. Look for Milspec aviation
clearing houses for the reverse direction bulb "cans" for Jet instrumentation panels. they are also in 24V config.
I had done this in my M37, but the switch felt hot, so I added a 500k pot.
It made the red gauges jump out too brightly.
I could see my reflection in the windshield better than the hood, on full "power" with the dimmer knob.
You wouldn't believe where I found them the cheapest, only $1.50 ea; Walmart.
Don't forget; wire'em in series - paired up. Lower 4 watters were the lowest heat in the bulb casing.
Step two, the bright LEDs in fixed positon cans, aiming directly at the needles. Use almost no amperage
and can control any gauge individually for priority lighting, wired up seperately. Look for Milspec aviation
clearing houses for the reverse direction bulb "cans" for Jet instrumentation panels. they are also in 24V config.