Helpful Reminders & Tips - Driving/Owning MVs - To Other Newbies

[Bhpdbrad]

I'm sure I'll be adding to this list... Feel free to contribute also. These are just some of the things that I encountered on my 1st trip in the 925a2.

1) Turn Signals - non cancelling. (And the blinking light is designed to hide behind the steering wheel). Even though I'd remind myself of this for every turn - I'd still find that I'd occasionally had left them on - for miles on end . More often on lane changes. I see there are ones to buy that have a beep - not sure I'd actually hear it though...

2) Doors can lock from the inside. Don't accidentally close them in the locked position... (See #3)

3) Door handles (exterior) are easily removed -- and a flat blade screwdriver can open the door mech.

4) Plan routes / destinations with wide lanes & turning radius. These things use a lot of real estate. Stay on solid surfaces - you don't want to leave a tire ditch on someone's yard.

 

[Coffey1]

Believe me you will hear that beeping turn signal.
I've had no problems with tight places I could take mine in any parking lot you will also get the feel where your corners are.
Now my new one might be different since it's 8ft longer lol.
Put some locking door handles on with security screws.

 

[AZK9]

... 3) Door handles (exterior) are easily removed -- and a flat blade screwdriver can open the door mech. ...

... Put some locking door handles on with security screws.

I added locking handles and screws on both my doors. It was a very easy job.
They look similar to the originals, are keyed alike and beef up basic security a lot.

I've done several 'anti-theft' modifications to my deuce in hopes of slowing the
bad guys down a bit. You can never do enough, but IMO... every little bit helps.

 

[Bhpdbrad]

I added locking handles and screws on both my doors. It was a very easy job.
They look similar to the originals, are keyed alike and beef up basic security a lot.

I've done several 'anti-theft' modifications to my deuce in hopes of slowing the
bad guys down a bit. You can never do enough, but IMO... every little bit helps.

Thank you. Just purchased the locking handles too. Your photo just reminded me of another question. What is the standard handle position? (Horizontal or vertical - as in your photo?) Or is it just preference? My original handles were vertical.

 

[Ue413]

What is the source of your handles?

 

[theeDIZ]

I put locking door handles on the minute I got my truck . You can hear the beeping light in my unmuffled deuce with a c turbo.

 

[AZK9]

Thank you. Just purchased the locking handles too. Your photo just reminded me of another question. What is the standard handle position? (Horizontal or vertical - as in your photo?) Or is it just preference? My original handles were vertical.

Hi Bhpdbrad...

This question has been talked about before on a different thread (about an M35A2).
Below you can link directly to that thread, but here's some of the info I added at that time:

Originally Posted by JohnnyBM931A2 : I'm curious.. Why do some people like to have the door handles vertical instead of horizontal? That just seems a little more awkward to me.

I think that it's probably just become a personal preference type of thing for some folks.

Still... from my own experience, the placement has been vertical on most of the 2 1/2 ton trucks that I've seen
over the years on military bases. On my last trip up to Fort Dix... that was overwhelmingly the case. Vertical on
the trucks most similar to mine.

It's funny that you brought this up, because as soon as my new lockable handles arrived, I was researching
how best to mount them (even though the originals were also vertical). I took special notice of the handle
placement and it was obvious that vertical won out after counting the vehicles parked as surplus at Fort Dix.

I still wanted more info before installing them, so I checked my go-to book to see if I could verify what I had seen
firsthand on base. In the 2nd edition of David Doyle's, standard catalog of U.S. Military Vehicles, I looked at the photos
provided in the 2 1/2 ton section. Almost all of them were placed in the vertical position. So... that was all I needed. I
put them in the vertical way. I'm pleased with how they look on my 1970 M35A2.

Now... after all that... as long as they function properly, I think it's just one of those things that's up to the individual
deuce owner!

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?67703-What-did-you-do-to-your-deuce-this-week/page469 #4682

Hope it helps a bit!

 

[pitpawten]

What I read was that vertical did not allow someone to grab the handle and put their full body weight on them.

Granted there are a million ways to get into a deuce otherwise, however you gotta start somewhere.

I'm getting better on my turn signals, but without a buzzer it sure is was to forget.

Thinking about a "Shock collar" mod similar to training a dog. Something to shock me when i forget the blinker or to drain the air tanks etc

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

BRAKING DISTANCE: If you are unaccustomed to large, old-design vehicles (i.e.: Vietnam and prior vintage models) you will quickly learn that they DO NOT stop-on-a-dime (or even on a quarter) unless you plan ahead.... like a $1.38 ahead if you plan on hitting that dime.

HIGH CG: These vehicles have HIGH CENTERS OF GRAVITY, hence ANY impulsive or reactionary jerk-steering may result in a ROLLOVER incident. B-E-W-W-A-R-E and be aware AT ALL TIMES.

MINIMAL LIGHTING & REFLECTIVITY: Other drivers will find you are difficult to see at night. These vehicles were designed and painted to NOT BE NOTICED. Hence, YOU MUST be aware of the other guy's low probability of having seen you first. I always drive with lights ON, even in daylight.

Enjoy the hobby. Be safe and tell us of your experiences.

 

[Zadvark]

MINIMAL LIGHTING & REFLECTIVITY: Other drivers will find you are difficult to see at night. These vehicles were designed and painted to NOT BE NOTICED. Hence, YOU MUST be aware of the other guy's low probability of having seen you first. I always drive with lights ON, even in daylight..

+1,000,000 on this. The first thing I noticed is the truck just doesn't jump out and grab you in broad daylight and forget it in the dark. I replaced all of the lenses as the old ones were pretty frosted over from oxidation, paint overspray, acid rain, etc. Another cheap fix for behind are the larger Delineator Plates for the rear mud flaps. Pretty darn efficient and cheaper than LED lights.

I do want to thank the OP for the thread. Yes, I've read the forum from stem to stern and read the PMs but this is a great thread on the things that don't generally get covered or concepts that we forget or take for granted.

 

[Bhpdbrad]

What is the source of your handles?

I purchased the locking handles from TMG (Those Military Guys).
They look and work great.

 

[pitpawten]

I purchased the locking handles from TMG (Those Military Guys).
They look and work great.

That's where I got mine too. TMG were great and rekeyed two different colors alike (3 color camo on the truck).

That being said, if you are enterprising you can get some Chinese screen door handles, a couple of security screws and some Rapco rattle cans for the same thing...and probably pay the same price and waste some time to say you did it yourself (my typical MO doesn't sound so good when I write it out like that : )

 

[Bhpdbrad]

A Simple Solution For "5-ton's" of Sound.

I just threw a Bluetooth speaker in - linked to my iTunes. Worked great! No need for a radio install and 24v to 12v conversions.

Here ya go...
http://youtu.be/o-sQ99m7jRk

 

[M813rc]

MINIMAL LIGHTING & REFLECTIVITY: Other drivers will find you are difficult to see at night. These vehicles were designed and painted to NOT BE NOTICED. Hence, YOU MUST be aware of the other guy's low probability of having seen you first.

If you want to maintain your stock military look for shows, etc., but still be seen in low light conditions, this is easily done with magnetic reflectors. (This is good for parking too)

I buy 2" strips of magnetic sheet material from hobby stores (Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc.) and stick 2" reflective tape to it, either white, yellow, or red, depending on where I intend to place it.
Cut them to whatever length suits you, I usually go with 8" and 4" strips.

You can put as many as you want on the vehicle, then when you get to the show, pop them off and put them inside your vehicle. I usually stick them inside the toolbox door on trucks, or in a .50cal ammo can in the V.

You're not limited to 2" strips, you can make the reflectors as big as you want.

As regards door handles, they re usually vertical for the reasons listed above, but I moved mine to horizontal on the M931's because I got tired of pinching my fingers between the handle and the grab bar! That also allows me to put a short piece of chain and padlock around the handle, and the air intake bracket. This keeps the idle curious from opening your doors while you are in a restaurant, or whatever. Won't stop a determined thief, but not much will.

Cheers

 

[Gunzy]

One additional security item is a keyed ignition (start/stop) switch. I have locking door handles too. So first you have to get my doors unlocked/open, then you will have to unchain/free my steering wheel, then you will have to "Hotwire" it. Oh, then you have to sit in that noisy beast while it builds air pressure. I think by that time I have apprehended the dip turd.

 

[archmark]

I ordered and installed 2 sets of the locking door handles from TMG on my M185A3 and my M934 almost a year apart and guess what, they're keyed the same. Also if you'll turn the handles over and look inside the recess you'll find the country of origin, and it ain't Uncle Sucker.

I wonder how many of the parts on our MV's, both original and aftermarket, are produced by the Chi-Coms...

Mark

 

[Bhpdbrad]

This is is an easy solution for 12v power supply to a cigarette lighter/charger for the iphone.
I simply made a clamp-on device to one 12v battery by using a small set of alligator clip/jumper cable clamps soldered to small gage insulated (+ & -) wire - to a 12v charger. Ran the cord out the passenger battery cover seat and it worked like a charm. I took it off (disconnected) whenever I would leave the truck parked for more than a day as it does pull some energy - however slight. But this is an easy way for power w/o adding a converter and/or tapping into fuses.

 

[71DeuceAK]

Could do the same for a radio, GPS, etc. However, you don't want too much of an unbalanced load on your battery bank since otherwise the charging rate will be uneven, which can/will lead to battery issues.

When/if I get one myself I plan to install a "normal" stereo system but will just add a second, 12v alternator and battery.

 

[Bhpdbrad]

Could do the same for a radio, GPS, etc. However, you don't want too much of an unbalanced load on your battery bank since otherwise the charging rate will be uneven, which can/will lead to battery issues.

When/if I get one myself I plan to install a "normal" stereo system but will just add a second, 12v alternator and battery.

Yes, correct...that's why I just did this for the phone chargers. No risk of unbalanced loads drawing 5v DC 1 amp.