Here We Go Again Low Voltage M1009

[jplace1011]

Sounds like a bad regulator if the main connections test out good. Solid red, Bat+, should be voltage of both batteries, red with white stripe should be front battery voltage. Measure with engine off, red to red, black to ground.

Thank you for getting back to me fellas. I will still go ahead and fix the Fusible Link and check the end of the other wire. I might as well since it needs to be done anyhow.

One idea I have is to put one of my Old Alternators in. I have one that was in when I purchased the vehicle. I just swamped it out because I figured why not. Let me see if that changes what comes up with the Voltmeter.

@Keith_J man I’m already lost in what/how to do that. I really need Videos on How To. It’s just better for me.

If the New one is broken, I’m going to suspect it could have been damaged during transport. Those UPS guys can really throw the boxes around. I know, I used to be one.

I already reached out to John at Hillbilly Wizard on Monday, so hopefully I can switch them out easy if need be.

I’ll report back.


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[Keith_J]

If the new one is a rebuild, it is possible they left the pin in the brush holder. This would prevent the brushes from contacting the slip rings.

A new, loaded brush holder has this pin holding the two slip ring brushes in against the springs. Once assembled, this pin protrudes out the back of the case and is pulled, releasing the brushes so they ride on the slip rings.

The brush holder is the part on the right, the pin is visible holding the brush holder up.

 

[jplace1011]

If the new one is a rebuild, it is possible they left the pin in the brush holder. This would prevent the brushes from contacting the slip rings.

A new, loaded brush holder has this pin holding the two slip ring brushes in against the springs. Once assembled, this pin protrudes out the back of the case and is pulled, releasing the brushes so they ride on the slip rings.

The brush holder is the part on the right, the pin is visible holding the brush holder up.View attachment 871795

Look at that thing all a part. Awesome.


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[jplace1011]

Look at that thing all a part. Awesome.


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I’ll see if there’s a Pin sticking out. I know what part you mean. I took one alternator apart once before and remember that piece. I thought it was a strange piece.


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[Keith_J]

If the rotor is good, those parts pictured cost about $50. Takes me 30 minutes to overhaul one, new bearings included.

I have one spare alternator on hand, I should order an overhaul kit.

 

[jplace1011]

If the rotor is good, those parts pictured cost about $50. Takes me 30 minutes to overhaul one, new bearings included.

I have one spare alternator on hand, I should order an overhaul kit.

@Squibbly here the cable end that was taped. It’s on there real snug when I pull on it. Should I just tape it back up and leave it?

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[jplace1011]

If the rotor is good, those parts pictured cost about $50. Takes me 30 minutes to overhaul one, new bearings included.

I have one spare alternator on hand, I should order an overhaul kit.

@Keith_J I don’t see anything g like a Pin sticking out of the back of the Alternator.

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[Squibbly]

@Squibbly here the cable end that was taped. It’s on there real snug when I pull on it. Should I just tape it back up and leave it?

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I would make sure that metal is wrapped all the way around the wire and crush it a bit more but once you do that, and it is tight its good with tape. I prefer heat shrink,


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[Keith_J]

@Squibbly here the cable end that was taped. It’s on there real snug when I pull on it. Should I just tape it back up and leave it?

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I would replace the ring. Correct diameters are the only critical dimensions. The insulation should be crimped to the end tabs to reduce stress, copper can fatigue at the sharp edge of the conductor crimp.

 

[jplace1011]

I would replace the ring. Correct diameters are the only critical dimensions. The insulation should be crimped to the end tabs to reduce stress, copper can fatigue at the sharp edge of the conductor crimp.

@Keith_J @Squibbly So it Has to be the Alternator. I just repaired the 2 wires and put it all back together. It didn’t change a thing. I had to Jump Start it again.

Here’s the Test Results:

*I didn’t bother testing anything while it was Off, only While Running Tests.

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[Squibbly]

@Keith_J @Squibbly So it Has to be the Alternator. I just repaired the 2 wires and put it all back together. It didn’t change a thing. I had to Jump Start it again.

Here’s the Test Results:

*I didn’t bother testing anything while it was Off, only While Running Tests.

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I’d try another generator if you have one.


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[jplace1011]

I’d try another generator if you have one.


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I don’t know if it matters, the Voltmeter is bouncing a tad. I don’t think it did that before all my problems.

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[jplace1011]

I’d try another generator if you have one.


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I’ll go ahead and swap out the Alternator, hopefully tomorrow. I also need to switch out the Other Turn Signal Light. Funny how I fixed the First one and all of the sudden the Second one decides it needs replaced too!!


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[ezgn]

@Squibbly here the cable end that was taped. It’s on there real snug when I pull on it. Should I just tape it back up and leave it?

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I don’t know if it matters, the Voltmeter is bouncing a tad. I don’t think it did that before all my problems.

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It is not charging. Once you get it fixed it won't bounce.

 

[ezgn]

I’ll go ahead and swap out the Alternator, hopefully tomorrow. I also need to switch out the Other Turn Signal Light. Funny how I fixed the First one and all of the sudden the Second one decides it needs replaced too!!


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Endure through the trials and tribulations and good will come from it. Look at all the experience and confidence, and the feeling of accomplishment you are acquiring. These mechanical repairs are a good teaching lesson. You have the ability to accomplish most of your own repairs. You seem to be moving forward quite well. If you have the will and the determination, you can accomplish anything you make your mind up to. And don't forget, set backs and mistakes are how you learn. Keep moving forward with the right attitude and you will already be successful.

 

[jplace1011]

Endure through the trials and tribulations and good will come from it. Look at all the experience and confidence, and the feeling of accomplishment you are acquiring. These mechanical repairs are a good teaching lesson. You have the ability to accomplish most of your own repairs. You seem to be moving forward quite well. If you have the will and the determination, you can accomplish anything you make your mind up to. And don't forget, set backs and mistakes are how you learn. Keep moving forward with the right attitude and you will already be successful.

Update! The Old Alternator (the one that was in when I purchased it) was installed and Now things are working as they should.

What a journey it was! I’m glad I cleaned, crimped items, etc. It was all needed and I learned a lot.

I’m still going to switch out that Neg. Bus Bar because of the Stripped Bolt. I think I may just put my New Replacement Alternator on the shelf for now, once it arrives.

One thing my buddy mechanic mentioned. One of the Posts on one of the batteries is loose. You can turn it around. He said it should be that way, it shouldn’t be able to turn at all. Is that true, should I see if I can swap out the battery via my warranty??

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[Keith_J]

Nice! Now to fix the other alternators. Some batteries have screw in posts, try tightening it first.

 

[Squibbly]

Update! The Old Alternator (the one that was in when I purchased it) was installed and Now things are working as they should.

What a journey it was! I’m glad I cleaned, crimped items, etc. It was all needed and I learned a lot.

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Congrats. You troubleshot everything down to "It's the alternator".
Feels good, right?

 

[jplace1011]

Congrats. You troubleshot everything down to "It's the alternator".
Feels good, right?

Friday I tested Both Alternators and Batteries again. Things still look great.

I did end up replacing the Rear Battery, the Threads on the Neg. Post got fried and ruined the threads. That was a result of the Buss Terminal being modified, that’s a whole different issue.


I apologize if I missed anyone But still Thank You for your help everyone. I certainly learned a lot. I tell everyone who has a CUCV to get in on this Forum. It’s worth every penny and invaluable for Wisdom and Help!

@Squibbly @cucvrus @Keith_J
@ezgn


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[cucvrus]

Truthfully you should not use post adapter on 3/8" threaded post batteries. You are asking for trouble anytime you drop size of battery cables and any connections. Plumbing rule is in effect. If you have a 3/8 Stud you get 3/8" current and amps. When the battery post is a solid post it has a solid connection and has not been reduced and expanded. Stick with solid post batteries on the CUCV unless you have altered to studded battery cable ends. Or NOT. But sticking with the tried and true always worked out better for me. Using the correct parts prevents what you have encountered. And if it were my CUCV I would have new cables made. They are inexpensive in comparison to all the work and damage bad cables and loose connections can cause. I had a battery explode under the hood of a CUCV about 10 years ago. It sounded like a shotgun blast and my picture perfect spotless engine was cover in battery acid and never looked the same again. Good Luck.