Here We Go Again Low Voltage M1009

[jplace1011]

It's an open circuit until you plug the lighter in, so no, a lighter wouldn't not generally draw power in that state.

Thank You @Squibbly that’s good to know.

I did notice the Red Wire on the back of that Plug needs to be repaired. An easy fix.

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[Squibbly]

Thank You @Squibbly that’s good to know.

I did notice the Red Wire on the back of that Plug needs to be repaired. An easy fix.
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Here you go. I filmed a short 3ish minute video explaining the concept. (Another quality video professionally filmed...lol)

Note: As discussed in this thread, if the draw in your truck is more than 10 AMPS or whatever your multimeter is capable of it will blow that fuse in your multimeter. You have been warned.

 

[jplace1011]

Here you go. I filmed a short 3ish minute video explaining the concept. (Another quality video professionally filmed...lol)

Note: As discussed in this thread, if the draw in your truck is more than 10 AMPS or whatever your multimeter is capable of it will blow that fuse in your multimeter. You have been warned.

@Squibbly awesome job buddy! Thank you for this video and the previous link to the other video.

I will do the Parasidic Test soon. I’m just waiting on a Kill Switch to arrive for my Rear Buss Bars. I’m thinking of adding a Kill Switch to my Front Winch as well.


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[jplace1011]

@Squibbly awesome job buddy! Thank you for this video and the previous link to the other video.

I will do the Parasidic Test soon. I’m just waiting on a Kill Switch to arrive for my Rear Buss Bars. I’m thinking of adding a Kill Switch to my Front Winch as well.


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As you know, I installed the Additional Ground Cable last week. So far I’ve had zero issues with starting the vehicle. It is now starting how it should!

This may very well have been what the issue was. It makes me wonder if there originally was a Ground Cable mounted on the frame and why did it get removed?

Thank you for all your input. I’ll still be checking for Parasites once a part I ordered arrived. It’s a great excuse to learn how to do that.

I fixed that Plug behind the Plug as well. While I was there I found another lose wire. It didn’t take much to just pull it apart. I fixed it as well.

I’m really realizing a lot of mechanics must hurry through their work.

I’m trying to do my best, I heard a great saying years ago.

“If you don’t have time time to do it right, then you have time to do it twice.”

 

[ezgn]

As you know, I installed the Additional Ground Cable last week. So far I’ve had zero issues with starting the vehicle. It is now starting how it should!

This may very well have been what the issue was. It makes me wonder if there originally was a Ground Cable mounted on the frame and why did it get removed?

Thank you for all your input. I’ll still be checking for Parasites once a part I ordered arrived. It’s a great excuse to learn how to do that.

I fixed that Plug behind the Plug as well. While I was there I found another lose wire. It didn’t take much to just pull it apart. I fixed it as well.

I’m really realizing a lot of mechanics must hurry through their work.

I’m trying to do my best, I heard a great saying years ago.

“If you don’t have time time to do it right, then you have time to do it twice.”

You are absolutely right about shoddy workmanship. No one will take more effort and pride in their vehicle then you will. I see you steeped up to some quality connectors. That is where a lot of shorts are in wiring when a connector looks good but you can't be sure how well the connection is. If in doubt cut it off and replace.

 

[jplace1011]

You are absolutely right about shoddy workmanship. No one will take more effort and pride in their vehicle then you will. I see you steeped up to some quality connectors. That is where a lot of shorts are in wiring when a connector looks good but you can't be sure how well the connection is. If in doubt cut it off and replace.

Son of a Biscuit!!! I drove my M1009 Monday, it started fine. Then I started it yesterday (Thursday) and again today. Both times it was clicking and struggling to start. WTF?

So maybe there’s a parasitic draw, which I will test for. Or could it be the starter or flywheel, etc. causing the clicking?

This epic journey just keeps going and going and going…..

@Squibbly @ezgn @cucvrus @Keith_J


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[ezgn]

Son of a Biscuit!!! I drove my M1009 Monday, it started fine. Then I started it yesterday (Thursday) and again today. Both times it was clicking and struggling to start. WTF?

So maybe there’s a parasitic draw, which I will test for. Or could it be the starter or flywheel, etc. causing the clicking?

This epic journey just keeps going and going and going…..

@Squibbly @ezgn @cucvrus @Keith_J


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You know already by now, if all you're getting is clicking, the first thing you need to do is eliminate the batteries as the problem, and if they test good then you look elsewhere. If the batteries are low, then it sounds like you're back to square one. My guess is, since you have already corrected and checked so many other things is you might have a draw on your system. If your driving it for a few days and it starts okay and gradually becomes harder to start, you aren't getting a charge to your batteries, or you have a sizable draw somewhere.

 

[Keith_J]

Batteries can have self discharge, internal and external. Charge fully and disconnect, measuring voltage over a few days. Remember that voltage will be high fresh off the charger but should stabilize to 12.8 volts after 24 hours for flooded types and as high as 13.2 for AGM.

 

[jplace1011]

Batteries can have self discharge, internal and external. Charge fully and disconnect, measuring voltage over a few days. Remember that voltage will be high fresh off the charger but should stabilize to 12.8 volts after 24 hours for flooded types and as high as 13.2 for AGM.

Today I tested the Batteries with the Vehicle Off. They looked good, both were around 12.7 Volts. I also Tested for Parasitic Draw. The Multimeter was at 0.003. I think that’s good?

The reading didn’t change when I pulled out every fuse.

Then I re-connected the power to the Buss Bar in the cab, Via the Kill Switch/On Off Switch I just installed. The Power Inverter and the Rear KC Lights are connected to that Buss Bar. Once they were reconnected the Multimeter went went up to 0.005. *Those 2 devices aren’t actually turned On.

I turned the Kill Switch Off and it dropped back down to 0.003.

Would the 0.005 be enough to drain/cause the issues I’m having at start up?


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[Keith_J]

.005 amps is 5 milliamps, the battery has 80-100 amp hours capacity at 1/20th draw rate (4 to 5 amp draw). 80 divided by 0.005 is 16000 hours or about 670 days. Self discharge is a greater rate.

 

[jplace1011]

.005 amps is 5 milliamps, the battery has 80-100 amp hours capacity at 1/20th draw rate (4 to 5 amp draw). 80 divided by 0.005 is 16000 hours or about 670 days. Self discharge is a greater rate.

It’s been starting normally the past two days. I’ll keep an eye on it and see how it starts after it’s sat a couple/few days.


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[jplace1011]

It’s been starting normally the past two days. I’ll keep an eye on it and see how it starts after it’s sat a couple/few days.


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After all of this time, I believe I figured out what the issue was. The Starter Needed to be Replaced.

Thread here:

M1009 Starter Sparks

M1009 Starter Sparks

The starter in my M1009 began sparking when I started it the last two attempts. I don’t know how old the Starter is, I’ve only owners the vehicle 2 years. I’m assuming the Starter needs to be Replaced. Could it be anything else? Also is there anything tricky about installing the New Starter...

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Ever since it was replaced, the M1009 is starting up every time with no issues!

I’m still glad that I tried all of those other things. It taught me a lot!!


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