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HF542996 Power Steering conversion geometry questions, 1943 G-7123
Ok folks I am calling on the collective wisdom here to help me do this conversion right the first time.
Why not run of the mill, It's not an M35, but a G-7123 NN WWII Chevrolet cabover.
Criteria of the build in general to get us on the same page:
The whole plan for this truck is to first become my daily driver then eventually build a removable WWII military looking box on the back for family expeditions.
It must exteriorly look WWII motorpool mechanic hot rodded stock Think any thing a motorpool mechanic could get his hands on from the wrecks..it was already modded with a Federal 2 1/2 ton hoist/dump setup.
It must also be safe for my family and be able to be driven by my wife who is under 5' (ok she's 4' 11" and 105# wet) Thus the need for power steering.
It is also getting a Cummins 6BTA and an Eaton 6 speed.
I have gotten a Ford remanufactured 4 port HF542996 (for $350 Ford remanufactured and NO core charge!) to replace the small manual gearbox...thus the start of the problems. Simple physics states 2 solid objects can't occupy the same space with out explosive consequences and living in Lost Angels means I need extra cooling for the freeway parking lot commute
Question 1) I know I need to make the drag link as level as possible to minimize bumpsteer, but how long or short can it be?
Question 2) Also how far inboard or outboard of the frame rails can I place it with yet unsourced pitman arm? How much angle can I get away with in the horizontal plane can I have tho minimize contact on full right turns?
Question 3) I think the pitman arm should rest straight down at steering gearbox center position, right? I say this as the angle on the box is around 60* instead of the normal 30* of the M35 conversions.
Here is a pic showing what we are up against
Thanks in Advance
Ok folks I am calling on the collective wisdom here to help me do this conversion right the first time.
Why not run of the mill, It's not an M35, but a G-7123 NN WWII Chevrolet cabover.
Criteria of the build in general to get us on the same page:
The whole plan for this truck is to first become my daily driver then eventually build a removable WWII military looking box on the back for family expeditions.
It must exteriorly look WWII motorpool mechanic hot rodded stock Think any thing a motorpool mechanic could get his hands on from the wrecks..it was already modded with a Federal 2 1/2 ton hoist/dump setup.
It must also be safe for my family and be able to be driven by my wife who is under 5' (ok she's 4' 11" and 105# wet) Thus the need for power steering.
It is also getting a Cummins 6BTA and an Eaton 6 speed.
I have gotten a Ford remanufactured 4 port HF542996 (for $350 Ford remanufactured and NO core charge!) to replace the small manual gearbox...thus the start of the problems. Simple physics states 2 solid objects can't occupy the same space with out explosive consequences and living in Lost Angels means I need extra cooling for the freeway parking lot commute
Question 1) I know I need to make the drag link as level as possible to minimize bumpsteer, but how long or short can it be?
Question 2) Also how far inboard or outboard of the frame rails can I place it with yet unsourced pitman arm? How much angle can I get away with in the horizontal plane can I have tho minimize contact on full right turns?
Question 3) I think the pitman arm should rest straight down at steering gearbox center position, right? I say this as the angle on the box is around 60* instead of the normal 30* of the M35 conversions.
Here is a pic showing what we are up against
Thanks in Advance
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