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HHMWV Fuel tank leak

Ajax MD

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Looks like 1 and 5
But not sure that is the correct drawing, what model truck?
It's an early M998 that has been re-engined with the 6.5l but kept the 3-speed TH400. To my eyes, the fuel tank is original. The truck has the driveshaft parking brake which means the tank is the early style.
 

Mogman

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It's an early M998 that has been re-engined with the 6.5l but kept the 3-speed TH400. To my eyes, the fuel tank is original. The truck has the driveshaft parking brake which means the tank is the early style.
Then that would be correct, 1 and 5
 

TNDRIVER

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I could use some assistance interpreting this parts drawing.

Basically, I want to purchase the two metal fuel lines coming directly from the fuel tank. These connect to rubber sections a little further upstream which then possibly turn into metal sections again if I interpret the diagram correctly. The exploded diagram doesn't show the fuel tank at all, it's kind of a disembodied view.

Which numbers do I need?

View attachment 889327
If you have a hydraulic line shop near, you can carry those in and they can replicate them easily. Just saying.
 

Ajax MD

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Ok, tank is fully removed. I've removed the crushed section of metal fuel line. Hopefully I'll have the section made tomorrow.

I should expect to have to purge air from the fuel system after all of this? I've read the procedure and even found an old Army training video but I haven't actually done it yet.
 

Coug

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it may or may not be an issue. There should still be fuel in the lines and filter, so you might find it fires right up with minimal cranking.
When I dropped and reinstalled my tank I don't remember doing anything special to get it running again.

If it does have issues, then yes, you'll need to do something to purge the air.
 

Mullaney

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Ok, tank is fully removed. I've removed the crushed section of metal fuel line. Hopefully I'll have the section made tomorrow.

I should expect to have to purge air from the fuel system after all of this? I've read the procedure and even found an old Army training video but I haven't actually done it yet.
.
Air pressure (a rag at the filler nozzle tube and 3 to maybe 5 pounds of air) will help.
Cranking and if it will run - a high idle is a good plan too.
Otherwise the video will be your plan... Hope it goes easy.
 

Ajax MD

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OK, I got 'er did.
NAPA had sections of steel line with the correct ferrule for $10. I used my handheld tube bender to give it contours similar to the factory tube.

Engine started with no purging or troubles. I appreciate all the advice.
 
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