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- Thread starter JeffStaff
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gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Welcome. What are you wanting the truck to do for you? For a daily driver, the 1009s(blazers) are better on milage.
Bozor1000
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I am very happy with my purchase. The thing that the M1008 has over the M1009 (I own a M100
is that it has a and a Dana 60 in the front and a 14bolt full floater in the rear with a locker. The gearing is at 4:56 which is good when you move up to big tires. Mine was a runner from www.govliquidation.com. It came out of Barstow and was a California National Guard truck so it was kept up really well. The dpwn side is that you can only carry yourself and two other passengers. The M1009 has the 1/2 ton drivetrain. Overall the decision is up to you on what its use is going to be. My truck is going to be strictly an offroad play truck. The 1ton drivetrain on it is a perfect platform for what I am going to do with it. Everyone has their own opinion on these trucks and these guys are very helpful with any problem that arises. If you do get one, don't forget to download the TSM's on the maintenance on these trucks. Welcome aboard! Steve
is that it has a and a Dana 60 in the front and a 14bolt full floater in the rear with a locker. The gearing is at 4:56 which is good when you move up to big tires. Mine was a runner from www.govliquidation.com. It came out of Barstow and was a California National Guard truck so it was kept up really well. The dpwn side is that you can only carry yourself and two other passengers. The M1009 has the 1/2 ton drivetrain. Overall the decision is up to you on what its use is going to be. My truck is going to be strictly an offroad play truck. The 1ton drivetrain on it is a perfect platform for what I am going to do with it. Everyone has their own opinion on these trucks and these guys are very helpful with any problem that arises. If you do get one, don't forget to download the TSM's on the maintenance on these trucks. Welcome aboard! Steve
Bozor1000
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Check www.govliquidation.com and search by state!
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If you're planning on hauling "stuff" then M1008. Ditto on planning to use a M101 trailer.
Plan on just driving back and fourth to work and back and only occasionally carrying somewhat lighter loads or rare trailer use and not max'ing out the trailer--M1009.
M1009 is faster, better mileage, carries 4 people, and enclose cargo space that locks albeit with the same key that every CUCV owner has.
That's my opinion.
Plan on just driving back and fourth to work and back and only occasionally carrying somewhat lighter loads or rare trailer use and not max'ing out the trailer--M1009.
M1009 is faster, better mileage, carries 4 people, and enclose cargo space that locks albeit with the same key that every CUCV owner has.
That's my opinion.
motorolanut
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Howdy and Welcome....The 1009 Blazer is more user friendly as a daily driver...The 1008 series are good if you intend to haul loads in the bed or tow a trailer...Basically Ditto to what everybody said above...LOL
Hey Jeff welcome to the site, first where in west tn are ya. For GL pickups you can look at Fort Campbell up by Clarksville, Tn off 24, If your down by Memphis then theres the places out in Arkansas. If you got the money you can buy one out right from Memphis Equipment but trust me it wont be cheap! ( relativly) Maybe you can talk your folks into helping you pickup the truck where ever you buy it from. The recovery is half the adventure in claiming your military rig! But I hope you relize to these trucks are pretty spartan no A/C no radio, no electric windows. If you got the money and time you can add them. Or you can just get by with out but your prom date may b!tch. Do what ya want and Hope it works out let us know where in TN, my family lives outside of Memphis off 40 so if you need some help I will be up there in a couple months when I get out the Army. Good Luck Captain
I live in Tipton County, TN if you know where that is and yeah I've done my research on these trucks. I know that they've got no A/C, radio, etc. Once I've saved up enough money (if I ever get a job) I might be willing to travel if it isn't that far. Anyways what's the average prices of these trucks?
Bozor1000
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Jeff, how old are you. And yes they don't have the comforts of a civilian truck or blazer. Plus they are all diesel and are 24volt which is for the starting system. Good luck and happy hunting. Steve
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The idea is to get one, fix it up, and keep it in fuel. I set my budget for 1st year of purchase, title, tags, insurance, and fixing at $5,000. I actually came in under that to about $4,000 give or take a few hundred. I think I got off cheap because I had a lot of free help and was even given some pay it forwards on suspension parts that probably saved me hundreds.
You don't want your first experience to be a bad one. If you are set on buying one, inspect it good and set your budget. Be prepared to work on the truck and hire out what you know you can't do. I don't have the stuff to weld and it's been too long since I did welding to be any good at it. I hate painting and don't think I have the skills to do that. I can read a -20/-34 military technical manual, can turn wrench, and if I think something is too deep for me, I know folks who can answer questions and/or help me directly. So I hired out the welding and the body work which together cost well over 2X what I paid for the truck. My truck had some rot so I expected to pay for that. It's all a balance, you either pay a higher price for a nicer truck and HOPEFULLY pay less in intial fix ups. Pay a lower price for a junker and you have to pay for the parts and labor to fix it which can run a lot more than the cost of the truck plus the fact you aren't driving it yet. Mine took 6 months of putzing around to fix up. Two months were waiting for the body work to be done. I'm now at 18 months post purchase and just shy of a year since it hit the road and I am still at about $5,500 in total outlay including purchase price. I have yet to complete the interior and put the radio in it and a bunch of other stuff that I'll probably sink another $2,500 to complete. Of this cost, rust proofing and actual radios will probably be the biggies. Another decision for buying the truck I got was that I can work on it and successfuly fix things. That was a big decision for me to finally get what I wanted.
Also don't forget the cost of insurance and fuel. Your young age works against you for insurance but then again the vehicle isn't going to be a porsche so that will help save some. Diesel is going over $5/gal so that will be a big hit to the wallet. Mileage on a M1009 should be around 19 mpg +/-3 gal so figure out if you can keep this in fuel after you buy it and fix it up. Don't forget you will have to get it home after you buy it. The likelihood of driving it home is...well very unlikely. There's a lot of threads on this website about this very subject so you may want to do some seaching before you buy.
So key points:
Inspect it
Decide what you can and can't do to fix it
Have a plan to get it home
Determine if you can afford it
Make sure you can pay for the upkeep
Hope this helps.
btw I wanted a military vehicle since I was very young. I've always been enthralled by green iron. It wasn't until I turned 40 that I had my mid-life crisis and finally bought my "army truck".
You don't want your first experience to be a bad one. If you are set on buying one, inspect it good and set your budget. Be prepared to work on the truck and hire out what you know you can't do. I don't have the stuff to weld and it's been too long since I did welding to be any good at it. I hate painting and don't think I have the skills to do that. I can read a -20/-34 military technical manual, can turn wrench, and if I think something is too deep for me, I know folks who can answer questions and/or help me directly. So I hired out the welding and the body work which together cost well over 2X what I paid for the truck. My truck had some rot so I expected to pay for that. It's all a balance, you either pay a higher price for a nicer truck and HOPEFULLY pay less in intial fix ups. Pay a lower price for a junker and you have to pay for the parts and labor to fix it which can run a lot more than the cost of the truck plus the fact you aren't driving it yet. Mine took 6 months of putzing around to fix up. Two months were waiting for the body work to be done. I'm now at 18 months post purchase and just shy of a year since it hit the road and I am still at about $5,500 in total outlay including purchase price. I have yet to complete the interior and put the radio in it and a bunch of other stuff that I'll probably sink another $2,500 to complete. Of this cost, rust proofing and actual radios will probably be the biggies. Another decision for buying the truck I got was that I can work on it and successfuly fix things. That was a big decision for me to finally get what I wanted.
Also don't forget the cost of insurance and fuel. Your young age works against you for insurance but then again the vehicle isn't going to be a porsche so that will help save some. Diesel is going over $5/gal so that will be a big hit to the wallet. Mileage on a M1009 should be around 19 mpg +/-3 gal so figure out if you can keep this in fuel after you buy it and fix it up. Don't forget you will have to get it home after you buy it. The likelihood of driving it home is...well very unlikely. There's a lot of threads on this website about this very subject so you may want to do some seaching before you buy.
So key points:
Inspect it
Decide what you can and can't do to fix it
Have a plan to get it home
Determine if you can afford it
Make sure you can pay for the upkeep
Hope this helps.
btw I wanted a military vehicle since I was very young. I've always been enthralled by green iron. It wasn't until I turned 40 that I had my mid-life crisis and finally bought my "army truck".
davidkroberts
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jeff,
I live in Dyer County and can help you if you ever need it ( provided im in the United States at that moment) The Milan Arsenal ( Lavinia) yard is your closest bet but the pickings are slim and im not sure how many CUCVs are pulled out from there. Outside of that Fort Cambell is close but ive never been personally. As far as the Arkansas yards ive never been and dont know anyone personally whose gotten anything from them.
I live in Dyer County and can help you if you ever need it ( provided im in the United States at that moment) The Milan Arsenal ( Lavinia) yard is your closest bet but the pickings are slim and im not sure how many CUCVs are pulled out from there. Outside of that Fort Cambell is close but ive never been personally. As far as the Arkansas yards ive never been and dont know anyone personally whose gotten anything from them.
Bozor1000
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I agree with medlog on what he said.
Bozor1000
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Any kind that your heart desires. Depends on the lift if any and what are you using it for.
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Don't forget the price paid for the tires though. As long as the ones that come on the vehicle are functional, you may want to hold off on tires until you get other issues straight and if the budget holds.
jimm1009
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I have an '84 M1009 that I have been driving to work every day since late '95.
I have put about 110,000 miles on it over that time.
The very BEST thing that I did for myself was go to the 33/12.50x15 all terain tires.
With the THM400 tranny and 3.08 gears (OEM standard for M1009) the larger tire really makes a difference on the road. More speed or same speed and lower RPMs.
31/10.50x15 tires are OEM standard for M1009 from factory but some units have even gone so far as to add 33's down the road depending on mission and availability of local purchase tires. I have driven my truck up to see my family in Indiana (900 miles & 13 hours) driving 70 to 72 the whole way (no the wife would not go) (don't understand it either). Made that trip 5 times since owning it. With 33's you will get about 19 to 20 miles per gallon at 65 miles per hour with everything else being correct, ie; bearings, tire pressure, etc.
Good luck on your purchase.
Jim in Louisiana
I have put about 110,000 miles on it over that time.
The very BEST thing that I did for myself was go to the 33/12.50x15 all terain tires.
With the THM400 tranny and 3.08 gears (OEM standard for M1009) the larger tire really makes a difference on the road. More speed or same speed and lower RPMs.
31/10.50x15 tires are OEM standard for M1009 from factory but some units have even gone so far as to add 33's down the road depending on mission and availability of local purchase tires. I have driven my truck up to see my family in Indiana (900 miles & 13 hours) driving 70 to 72 the whole way (no the wife would not go) (don't understand it either). Made that trip 5 times since owning it. With 33's you will get about 19 to 20 miles per gallon at 65 miles per hour with everything else being correct, ie; bearings, tire pressure, etc.
Good luck on your purchase.
Jim in Louisiana
CCATLETT1984
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i would suggest that if your looking for a larger tire simpley to help with the gear ratio, that you look at some narrow 36" tires like the wrangler R/T II's used on the humvee. you may have to have the front springs replaced if they have sagged a lot, but other than that you shouldnt have any issues, if you want a wider tire then you will have to lift the truck to clear them while turning or with the axle articulated.