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highback driver seat install

ohiohmmwv

Member
450
16
18
Location
Columbiana, Ohio
I've followed the instructions included with the kit to install the drivers highback front seat. It uses a reference point of 3.25" from the rear set of old rivet holes from the old base that gets removed. I haven't bolted/drilled anything too permanent in the floor yet though. Has anyone tweaked their install for a better fit or are the instructions accurate for a good fit and future seat adjustments? I thought I'd check with the forum before drilling a ton of holes in my truck.
 

DatGuyC

Member
537
22
18
Location
Essex, Maryland
I followed the instructions exactly and when my seat is adjusted all the way back it hits the cross over, so I think you are more limited by that than anything else.
 

Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,559
113
Location
East Tennessee
Moving the mounting rails forward or backward won't really accomplish anything, because the slider moves the seat both ways.
 

ohiohmmwv

Member
450
16
18
Location
Columbiana, Ohio
Ok thanks guys. I think I'm good on the positioning then. I was thinking of just using rivets to secure the plates to the floor instead of all the small bolts. Any reason not to? I figure the original seats are secured that way and less steel to aluminum contact would be good too.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,220
72
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
I used the screws. Thought about using rivets, then used the screws. The kit I got had "extra" rivets, and TWO bags of the 8-32 screws/nuts, but NO allen screws. If you had enough rivets long enough to fit through both plates (inside floor and bottom backer) plus floor panel, go for it. I'd be concerned about those rivets cinching up tightly enough. The ones the instructions said to use for the extra holes in the floor were loose, rattled around which I thought was really odd. took a chisel to them, popped 'em out, and put in some stanley 3/16 rivets - they're solid.

Once I got the line drawn for the rear plate (3.25" forward of the old set of holes) the rest of the install went by faster than I'd thought.

You'll be happy with the seat and its adjustments. I'm still going to get around to increasing the tilt of the seat back like I did on the commander's (PAX) seat. Just to be consistent and comfortable. I posted on this earlier.

Today I'm in the throes of pulling the transfer case to replace with an AMG242. Fun.
 

ohiohmmwv

Member
450
16
18
Location
Columbiana, Ohio
I used the screws. Thought about using rivets, then used the screws. The kit I got had "extra" rivets, and TWO bags of the 8-32 screws/nuts, but NO allen screws. If you had enough rivets long enough to fit through both plates (inside floor and bottom backer) plus floor panel, go for it. I'd be concerned about those rivets cinching up tightly enough. The ones the instructions said to use for the extra holes in the floor were loose, rattled around which I thought was really odd. took a chisel to them, popped 'em out, and put in some stanley 3/16 rivets - they're solid.

Once I got the line drawn for the rear plate (3.25" forward of the old set of holes) the rest of the install went by faster than I'd thought.

You'll be happy with the seat and its adjustments. I'm still going to get around to increasing the tilt of the seat back like I did on the commander's (PAX) seat. Just to be consistent and comfortable. I posted on this earlier.

Today I'm in the throes of pulling the transfer case to replace with an AMG242. Fun.
Good info. Thank you. I've been putting this install off for a while now but now that I dug into it it's not bad at all. The included instructions are terrible though. Makes it seem so much more difficult than it is. My problem right now is that I just wanted to test sliding the seat front and back to double check position but for some reason seat won't go. I think it's hanging up on the one side even though I pull up on the leaver pretty hard.
 

Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,559
113
Location
East Tennessee
Good info. Thank you. I've been putting this install off for a while now but now that I dug into it it's not bad at all. The included instructions are terrible though. Makes it seem so much more difficult than it is. My problem right now is that I just wanted to test sliding the seat front and back to double check position but for some reason seat won't go. I think it's hanging up on the one side even though I pull up on the leaver pretty hard.
Are you pulling the correct one? The wide bar is for sliding. The small handle is for up / down.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,220
72
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
I put those plans/pictures on a laser copier at work, one figure at a time per 8-1/2x11 page, pumping up the contrast/density settings until I could actually read it.

STILL took me a while to figure out the 3.25" number.

SAME issue with the commander's seat cutting on the battery box frame. I looked at it, had several people at work look at it, used a 4x magnifier hood, my WIFE looked at it, we all agreed on the dimension necessary to cut for clearane on that one seat screw.

Wouldn't you know it, when I put the seat in place, it wouldn't drop, so I sat on it. Took it out and, yeah, the cut needed to be BACK by about another inch.

Someone in DoD land should lose their job over that. I imagine poeple have los their LIVES over discrepancies like it.
 

ohiohmmwv

Member
450
16
18
Location
Columbiana, Ohio
When installing pieces like this where it calls for caulking panels and putting primer down over exposed aluminum, what will work? Is there a primer that works fine with carc that is compatible. If possible I'd like to get some primer in aerosol can so I can quickly spray down and then it'll be ready for final carc paint(way down the road). What's the oem panel sealant that was used?
 

Jericho

Well-known member
1,180
69
48
Location
Landaff NH
I use Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. or one can use a quality Self Etching primer. I prefer GE black silastic silicone RTV , . works good, ( look for the "takes paint" on the container )
 

ohiohmmwv

Member
450
16
18
Location
Columbiana, Ohio
Any install pics?
Here's a few. Not complete though. Removed old seat and base. Secured base plates to new seat. Positioned seat in truck. Drilled a couple holes in each plate to get proper position. Removed seat. Now I can secure plates with the first couple holes I drilled. Then drill remaining holes and bolt everything down, including seat.

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