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Highway handling

montaillou

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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788
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Location
W.WA
I've put over 2k highway miles on my deuce and it's a struggle to keep it in the lane if the road is rough.

Fortunately, I live in a state (WA) with generally good roads. There have been a few instances where I've had to drop my speed to keep it from careening out of my lane and potentially killing someone.

Would the A3 power steering solve this issue? I wasn't planning on getting power steering because well, I've gotten used to the manual steering Though power steering would be convenient it's pretty far down my list atm.

From what I've read about hydraulic power steering assist options - these would probably make it worse.

Any other ideas?
 

Welder1

Active member
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Location
Albany Ga
What tires are you running? If you have switched to radials you probably need to increase the caster. That is a common change on these trucks when using radial tires.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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IN
I agree with Welder1, that it's the caster angle. Put "deuce caster angle" into the search.
 

goodwithwood35

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Bakersfield, CA
Sometimes mine hits potholes and wants to jump to the next lane. I’ve done the caster mod and power steering and G177 radials.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

jasonjc

Well-known member
5,325
283
83
Location
Gravette Ar.
I've got 3 truck that I drive a lot. 2 with NDT's and one has Michlin 12.50 XL's. All 3 handle just fine. The one with the XL's had a blowout had it still handled just fine , pull off to the side with little problem.
 

montaillou

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
W.WA
I am running 395 radials...will look into the caster angle and see if that helps.

A search did come up with a few threads about wandering deuces. Thanks for the ideas!
 
Last edited:

sandcobra164

Well-known member
2,999
287
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
Welder1 has identified the issue and if I had good search abilities I'd link a post of the thread member Gringletaube posted some good pictures on. Since I'm unable, you basically need to remove the spring spacers from the top of the axle. Unbolt the U bolts that secure the axle to the leaf spring, install a bottle jack to the leaf spring itself and remove the spacer. Grind the leading edge roughly 5/32" of an inch and re-install and repeat for the other side. This procedure will add some positive caster and make your truck track the road smoothly again. Mine drove great on the stock 9-20 NDT's but became a handful once I installed some Firestone T-831's in 11R20.
 

Attachments

goodwithwood35

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
327
51
28
Location
Bakersfield, CA
FWIW, I replaced the dog bone ends with the Heim type joints (Erik's surplus) and the rear end is way less jumpy than it was with the rubber encased OEM type joints. I run 11.00-20 radials, at 65 psi in the rear.

Here is the thread with a link to the "gringeltaube" mod: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...caster-angle-solved-problems-with-G-177-tires
I always thought that would be the next step to replace with that style. It’s coming from the rear like you said. They’re pricey but will definitely last longer than the factory rubber bushing type. Mine are starting to crack, so looks like that job is coming soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,387
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I've put over 2k highway miles on my deuce and it's a struggle to keep it in the lane if the road is rough.

Fortunately, I live in a state (WA) with generally good roads. There have been a few instances where I've had to drop my speed to keep it from careening out of my lane and potentially killing someone.

Would the A3 power steering solve this issue? I wasn't planning on getting power steering because well, I've gotten used to the manual steering Though power steering would be convenient it's pretty far down my list atm.

From what I've read about hydraulic power steering assist options - these would probably make it worse.

Any other ideas?
Besides doing the Caster Angle mod, you should also check your "Toe-In" . On all Radials you should run "0" toe-in, or as close as possible.
 

sue

Active member
384
285
43
Location
tulsa OK
We put a TAS 80 powersteering box on ours
( got it new from vanderhags) $400, it’s
off of a big snow plow. a cat
hydraulic pump. $129( bolts to the back of the
aircompresser) a unjoint from borgelesons?
$35 and could not be happier. Would not change
the feel by a ounce rather way.
plus we put the big 53” tires on ours, again
love them.
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,166
3,068
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
We put a TAS 80 powersteering box on ours
( got it new from vanderhags) $400, it’s
off of a big snow plow. a cat
hydraulic pump. $129( bolts to the back of the
aircompresser) a unjoint from borgelesons?
$35 and could not be happier. Would not change
the feel by a ounce rather way.
plus we put the big 53” tires on ours, again
love them.
Could you post some pics of your setup? That is interesting.
 

sue

Active member
384
285
43
Location
tulsa OK
I am sending you a PM, because I have no
idea how to post pictures, feel free to post
them though.
 

exhogflyer

Active member
156
129
43
Location
Albany NY
Besides doing the Caster Angle mod, you should also check your "Toe-In" . On all Radials you should run "0" toe-in, or as close as possible.
Negative, that's incorrect. Mechanic here with over 25 years exp. ALWAYS a little toe in, keeps the vehicle from wandering and helps " point it" down the road straight. No more than 1/8" total toe in.
 
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