hints to remove and torque to install m35 temp sending unit

[recon]

I need to replace the temp sending unit on my m35. I've been putting PB buster on the fitting. Anything else I can do to ease getting the old unit out? I've found a lot on testing temp sending units and temp gauges but nothing on torque for installing sending unit. Should a sealent be used? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Recon
Dutchess County, NY

 

[doghead]

Should I find the TM section on the replacement?

 

[M35A2-AZ]

PB Blaster and maybe a little heat.
I would use some sealant to Teflon tape.

 

[m-35tom]

is it pipe thread? in which case the thread seals by interferance fit, and some sealant would be a good idea, or does it have straight thread and a washer to seal. by the way 'sealant' on pipe threads is not really to seal, as much as it is for ease of removal in 20 years.

 

[NDT]

Use a box end wrench to remove and replace. It is brass and easy to round over the flats. Use a dab of pipe sealant.

 

[shenkmen]

I need to replace the temp sending unit on my m35. I've been putting PB buster on the fitting. Anything else I can do to ease getting the old unit out? I've found a lot on testing temp sending units and temp gauges but nothing on torque for installing sending unit. Should a sealent be used? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Recon
Dutchess County, NY

Heat. Warm your motor up and try removing it. The TM will tell you the proper torque setting. I would use teflon tape.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I agree, heat it and remove. If you don't feel like running the motor for an hour, use a torch. Just a quick heads up, you will probably have coolant spray out. For some reason the coolant likes to stay pressurized.

 

[shenkmen]

I agree, heat it and remove. If you don't feel like running the motor for an hour, use a torch. Just a quick heads up, you will probably have coolant spray out. For some reason the coolant likes to stay pressurized.

Good point about the pressure. I had a similar issue with a plug I needed to remove to install my cab heater. It didn't want to move while the engine was cold. I warmed it up and loosened it while still hot. Came back after it was cooled down and did my work.

 

[Streetgliderx]

by the way 'sealant' on pipe threads is not really to seal, as much as it is for ease of removal in 20 years.

I've heard this for years. And I've worked in the pipe business all my life,.... We pressure test pipelines to 3800psi before and I'll promise none of the threads would seal if we didn't thread tape and thread dope them. Old plumber used to preach to me I used too much on house plumbing,..... I never had a leak tho. Not trying to contradict just heard that before. Never understood it tho.

 

[patracy]

Righty - Tighty
Lefty - Loosey

 

[m16ty]

I'd think using too much sealant could interfere with the sending unit ground. I've found that most brass fittings will seal fine dry in a low pressure application such as a cooling system. As Tom said though, some sealant should aid in removal later.

 

[doghead]

I'd be willing to bet that if sealant is needed, it would mention it in the TM. I would also bet that if sealant inhibited the electrical connection that they would not recommend(warn not to use) it in the TM.

Remember, the TM is written so that a person with tools (and little to no experience) and the ability to read, can fix the truck in a standardized manor that provides acceptable performance and reliability.

In other words, the TM can talk an "idiot" through a procedure.

 

[porkysplace]

I'd be willing to bet that if sealant is needed, it would mention it in the TM. I would also bet that if sealant inhibited the electrical connection that they would not recommend(warn not to use) it in the TM.

Remember, the TM is written so that a person with tools (and little to no experience) and the ability to read, can fix the truck in a standardized manor that provides acceptable performance and reliability.

In other words, the TM can talk an "idiot" through a procedure.

DH, you might be on to something there. Somebody needs to create a audio CD book out of the TM's so they can have it read to them.

 

[doghead]

Funny you say it like that, I often have calls from members asking for help.

Many times I simply read the TM to them and solve the issue!

 

[doghead]

This should help with one issue discussed.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Funny you say it like that, I often have calls from members asking for help.

Many times I simply read the TM to them and solve the issue!

Sounds like me!

 

[HanksDeuce]

I used a long breaker bar and a deep socket to remove my temp sender. If you don't have that you can use a box end wrench and double up on the open end with another box end wrench for more leverage. You could remove the radiator cap while cold, crank the engine, and get it up to temperature. That way it wouldn't build pressure. Course my temp sender came out when the engine was cold with the breaker bar and deep socket. A lot of leverage and a gentle bump will almost always get the stuck fitting loose. Another route would be a deep socket and a normal ratchet + a bump with a heavy sledge hammer. Don't go overboard with it because the fitting is brass.

Not my video, but it shows the double combination wrenches used for more leverage:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ja7Ax45DGT8