What is the community view on how long the Lift Pumps last. I have a 2007 (mfg date) M1165A1 and Im wondering if i should throw a new lift pump in it as a preventative measure. Rubber degrades over time and this thing is 15 years old. Im replacing all the hoses on the truck and thinking maybe i should just do the pump while Im at it.
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HMMWV 6.5 Lift Pump Life
- Thread starter GTUnit
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I have a m1165 that had 83 miles since 2014 reset and it needed a lift pump. I believe it failed and put fuel into my oil. After taking it off it was like auto parts store item that Melton uses. The new pump that I got from HPG was heavy duty and had zero travel in it. My m1123 had 132 miles on it and pump started leaking at 1,500 miles. I would say that it’s probably a good idea to change it.
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Buy a quality one.
40 bucks worth of insurance, CAMO
40 bucks worth of insurance, CAMO
blutow
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I replaced mine, it have basically no miles since rebuild in 2009, but figured it was dumb not replacing it when I was doing all the hoses. I’d bet a pump failure from age is much more likely than a hose failure since there is actual movement of the rubber diaphragm in the pump.
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I think lift pump can fail and put more stress on your injection pump.
This is one of those things where hours are most important. It is the rubber seals that fail in the DB2 pumps. There isn't much deterioration that happens when the engine is cold. It is closely related to the amount of time the engine spends running.
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Just remember to get the gasket for the access plate behind the pump. you need to remove that plate and grease up the pump rod so it stays up in its hole in the block or you will break the pump rod.
All early SB chevy engines had that plate so it is not hard to find.
All early SB chevy engines had that plate so it is not hard to find.
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Once the pumps are introduced to ULSD Diesel, it’s a matter of time before the diaphragm gives up and it starts
to leak from the seam. I keep a stack of pumps on the shelf, I only stock the AC Delco brand…
not that I’ve found it makes a difference.
to leak from the seam. I keep a stack of pumps on the shelf, I only stock the AC Delco brand…
not that I’ve found it makes a difference.
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- Cleveland,TN
I might add..... while one is messing with the pump it might be a good time to separate the vent hose for the pump from the vehicles system.... why?.... when it does leak it will not dump fuel into the hubs and diffs to ruin your day. My 2 cents.
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This was my solution for the Detroit, a Raptor pump and a spin on filter, mounted in the passenger wheel well.
No possibility of dumping diesel into the engine oil.
No possibility of dumping diesel into the vent system filling up all the hubs, trans, transfer case and differentials.
Simple filter changes, OEM filter housing in the scrap pile.
Self priming, simply turn on the key.
Ample fuel delivery to keep the IP cool at all speeds, something the OEM pump cannot do.
Notice it has about 3PSI on the IP, this is the pressure it takes to overcome the check valve in the top of the IP, this engine was last run over 2 days ago so it is apparent there are no leaks in the system, normal running pressure about 12PSI.
BTW never use one of those "impulse" or "thumper" pumps, they are electrically nasty sending voltage spikes all through your system causing some strange problems, if you must at least put a diode across it to dampen the reverse EMF.
EDIT, this pump will run fine under water.
No possibility of dumping diesel into the engine oil.
No possibility of dumping diesel into the vent system filling up all the hubs, trans, transfer case and differentials.
Simple filter changes, OEM filter housing in the scrap pile.
Self priming, simply turn on the key.
Ample fuel delivery to keep the IP cool at all speeds, something the OEM pump cannot do.
Notice it has about 3PSI on the IP, this is the pressure it takes to overcome the check valve in the top of the IP, this engine was last run over 2 days ago so it is apparent there are no leaks in the system, normal running pressure about 12PSI.
BTW never use one of those "impulse" or "thumper" pumps, they are electrically nasty sending voltage spikes all through your system causing some strange problems, if you must at least put a diode across it to dampen the reverse EMF.
EDIT, this pump will run fine under water.
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If you are removing the vent, then the standard 2 line civy pump will work just fine.
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I rerouted mine. I get it in deep water occasionally.
SmartDrug
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I'm still pretty new to diesels and am a little confused here- Are we talking about the mechanical fuel pump that mates up to the engine, just in front of the starter, but before the radiator down tube, next to the oil pan?
This thing- 12342893
This thing- 12342893
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Yes
SmartDrug
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Can I just vent to atmosphere and cap off the system side?
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You could....... civy pumps have a simple vent hole......... get it in deep enough water and you can get water into the atmosphere side of the pump....... run a hose off the military pump vent tube up behind the air cleaner with its own termination separates it from the system , diesel fuel down the firewall behind the air cleaner would quickly indicate a pump problem in the future. My 2 cents.
papakb
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Early on before HMMWV parts dealers were plentiful I used an aquarium airstone to vent the lines and still prevent water from getting back into the system. The thought of the "vampire" was the impetous for this. I installed it on the vent line that connected to the air filter housing after capping it off. This allows the system to breathe but keeps it from developing any vacuum that could draw trans fluid into it.
Autonomy_Lost
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Thats a great idea!
Gore makes waterproof and breathable vents for drive line components. You can't buy them direct from Gore but they are used by the major automotive manufacturers. I haven't been able to find a part number yet, though.
www.gore.com