HMMWV Fuel Lift Pump

[BradIXXI]

Does anyone know the O'Reilly's or Auto Zone part number for a '04 HMMWV M1097A2 6.5L non-turbo mechanical fuel lift pump (see below):

They are telling me that on the ones they sell it does not have the vent nipple (shown in Yellow above.
Any help would be great....

 

[infinitymotors]

This is the one I just installed from AutoZone. It’s the correct ac Delco.


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[BradIXXI]

This is the one I just installed from AutoZone. It’s the correct ac Delco.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do they sell one for North America that is right side up? I assume you are Down Under sense your picture appears upside down to me?
Thank you soooo much for the info and so quick.....

 

[infinitymotors]

It’s the exact replacement I’m in Florida. It was $42


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[TOBASH]

This is the one I just installed from AutoZone. It’s the correct ac Delco.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is the Australian model. It is upside down. He needs an American one.

 

[papakb]

I just did this job on a friends HMMWV and there's no good way to push the fuel pump actuator pin back up into the block without removing the mounting plate. The gaskets are readily available and fit 1955 thru 1995 GM engines and only cost a few bucks so bite the bullet and remove the plate. I used wheel bearing grease to hold the pin up in the block when I remounted the plate and it washes out after the engine warms up so it won't cause any problems down the line. Use a touch of Permatex Hi-Tack to hold the gaskets in place. A word of advice when you do this job, remove the right splash panel and have a long extension with either a 3/8 swivel socket or a universal with a 3/8 socket to put things back together. This allows you to tighten everything up reaching in over the frame rather than busting your knuckles on all the solid stuff in the neighborhood.

Gasket mounting plate to block: FEL-PRO 5182

Fuel pump: Spectra Premium SP1143MP

Pushrod: Carter PR4

 

[jaredsalinsky]

Hey all. My fuel pump is leaking so I’m gonna replace it. Thanks above for the part number. But how in the heck did you get it done. There’s no dang room. I mean the bottom 2 bolts holding the plate on are barely get-to-able. But the top 2 - man there’s no way. I tried coming in from the side but it’s pretty tight. is there some special order of operations, or something else to remove first? (Btw I do have the FSM but before peering into that million page encyclopedia I thought I’d check the forums first!)
Any help would be much appreciated
thanks in advance.

 

[papakb]

A word of advice when you do this job, remove the right splash panel and have a long extension with either a 3/8 swivel socket or a universal with a 3/8 socket to put things back together. This allows you to tighten everything up reaching in over the frame rather than busting your knuckles on all the solid stuff in the neighborhood.

 

[Mogman]

I just did this job on a friends HMMWV and there's no good way to push the fuel pump actuator pin back up into the block without removing the mounting plate. The gaskets are readily available and fit 1955 thru 1995 GM engines and only cost a few bucks so bite the bullet and remove the plate. I used wheel bearing grease to hold the pin up in the block when I remounted the plate and it washes out after the engine warms up so it won't cause any problems down the line. Use a touch of Permatex Hi-Tack to hold the gaskets in place. A word of advice when you do this job, remove the right splash panel and have a long extension with either a 3/8 swivel socket or a universal with a 3/8 socket to put things back together. This allows you to tighten everything up reaching in over the frame rather than busting your knuckles on all the solid stuff in the neighborhood.

Gasket mounting plate to block: FEL-PRO 5182

Fuel pump: Spectra Premium SP1143MP

Pushrod: Carter PR4 or Dorman 03875

Are you sure about that Dorman part number? the Carter number looks good but not the Dorman.

 

[jaredsalinsky]

Thanks. Understood
do all 4 bolts hold both the pump and the plate to the block? Or do the top 2 hold the pump and the bottom 2 hold the plate? I’ve read some blurbs from people about removing the pump but not the plate (and the the pushrod gets stuck); I can’t see why you wouldn’t just remove both while you’re right there…

 

[papakb]

From the drawing you can see that the upper two bolts (1) hold the fuel pump in place and the lower two (11) attach the plate to the block.

I got the Carter rod pn# by cross referencing the AMG pn# 14050425 on the internet. It crosses to the Carter SP4 with .449 x 5.29" dimensions. Also via internet search I got the Dorman number of 03875 but checking it's dimensions it's showing .500 x 5.75" which is too long.

Sorry for the bad info! Stick with the Carter part.

Because of the angles and limited work area I think it's easier to remove the plate when doing this job.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Plate has to come off. You need to have no more than 1/2” of rod sticking out of the block. I ordered my pump and gasket from HPG. There is a difference in both. I put grease on my rod lol and put it in the freezer overnight and that gave me plenty of work time for my limited abilities. I have replaced fuel pump on my M1123 and my M1165.

 

[jaredsalinsky]

Thanks for all the replies…will let you know how it goes…
then there’s the whining power steering pump to do…

 

[Mogman]

When you put it back together, use a little sealer on the plate gasket and thread the pump bolts in a little ways before tightening the smaller plate bolts, this will insure that the plate is lined up when you install the pump. Otherwise you could find it difficult to start the pump bolts.
Do not use something like 1 minute gasket maker, just plain old silicone sealer or it could set up too fast.

 

[irondad2009]

This is great stuff. About to tackle this myself.

 

[williamh]

First thing I had to replace When I got my truck. I just used heavy wheel bearing grease to hold the pin. I would recommend not re connecting the vent line to the system and just put a short hose to drain in case it starts to leak again. the next thing you should do is pull off your wheels and check the hubs to see if the diesel has found it’s way threw the vent system into the hubs thining out the oil , it wouldn’t take long to destroy the hubs.