HMMWV Lug Nuts

[4x4nutz]

Wanted to replace a bunch of rusty, warn lug nuts. Seems that the only lug nuts I could find 9/16" R18 thread don't fit as tight going on as what I took off. The new ones glide right on, and when I put the old ones back on, I have to use the inpact driver. Appreciate any help.

 

[Bravojmc]

Wanted to replace a bunch of rusty, warn lug nuts. Seems that the only lug nuts I could find 9/16" R18 thread don't fit as tight going on as what I took off. The new ones glide right on, and when I put the old ones back on, I have to use the inpact driver. Appreciate any help.View attachment 681458

Take the new nuts off and reinstall the old one until you get factory replacements. The new nuts you have are not locking nuts and will back out! Factory nuts will fight you going on and coming off. This is normal.

 

[4x4nutz]

Take the new nuts off and reinstall the old one until you get factory replacements. The new nuts you have are not locking nuts and will back out! Factory nuts will fight you going on and coming off. This is normal.

I figured so......but was afraid to pull the trigger. Thank you brother!

 

[Bravojmc]

No problem. That's what this forums for!

 

[juanprado]

Are we talking lug nuts? They are nothing special, common gm, ford, and chrysler 3/4 & 1 ton standard threads not metric for 20 years. 7/8 hex- 9/16-18 all right thread. New ones go on easy because they have not been distorted by torquing them over the years or ratcheted down with a gun. Use a torque wrench and tighten to correct value.

Rim clamp nuts are torque to yield distorted lock nuts. Advisable not to reuse and replace.

 

[gringeltaube]

.........The new nuts you have are not locking nuts and will back out! Factory nuts will fight you going on and coming off. This is normal.

........ New ones (nuts) go on easy because they have not been distorted by torquing them over the years or ratcheted down with a gun. .........

 

[4x4nutz]

That's okay.......I usually get smart ass answers like "Well then, you should have bought an H1." But yes, little confused with contradictory answers......

 

[Action]

What was confusing? You need locking lug nuts. The OEM nuts will nut spin on freely. Do not use an impact gun when putting them on.

 

[4x4nutz]

What was confusing? You need locking lug nuts. The OEM nuts will nut spin on freely. Do not use an impact gun when putting them on.

Are we talking lug nuts? They are nothing special, common gm, ford, and chrysler 3/4 & 1 ton standard threads not metric for 20 years. 7/8 hex- 9/16-18 all right thread. New ones go on easy because they have not been distorted by torquing them over the years or ratcheted down with a gun. Use a torque wrench and tighten to correct value.

Rim clamp nuts are torque to yield distorted lock nuts. Advisable not to reuse and replace.

What is confusing is that I am getting two different answers from two different people.....did you take the time to read all the comments?

 

[juanprado]

Yes Sir,

The original lug nuts are not going on by hand easy due to the fact that probably they have been stretched and over torqued from repeatedly being run down by an impact gun from years of service and being on/off repeatedly assuming threads are good, studs not rusty and somewhat clean.

New lug nuts spin on easily because they are not distorted and clean good threads. Advise you use a torque wrench and install to 100ft/lbs

New lug nuts are easy to find as they fit many years of 3/4 and 1 ton pick up and vans. Same lug used by Chrysler, Ford, And Gm for 8 lug rims with standard 9/16 studs. 82 Chevy C20 for example to make it easier for parts guys

Just as a fyi, I added that the 24 nuts holding your wheel together, should not be reused according to manual & recommended practices.

 

[86humv]

Lug nuts go on easy if new, and stud is not damage
Old nuts which are well used or over torqued usally have the first thread at the
mating surface deformed.
I've checked about a 100 + nuts that did this.

 

[Mario]

I was told that this is a standard Chevy size.
Here is the size as tested by a pro (not me). https://goo.gl/photos/BUZrqBSYPcXMCtfa9 M14x1.5
I haven't bought my replacement yet -- can someone confirm this size is right? I don't want to buy few dozen just to find out that they're wrong?

 

[juanprado]

I was told that this is a standard Chevy size.
Here is the size as tested by a pro (not me). https://goo.gl/photos/BUZrqBSYPcXMCtfa9 M14x1.5
I haven't bought my replacement yet -- can someone confirm this size is right? I don't want to buy few dozen just to find out that they're wrong?

No, These are not metric on a hmmwv. 9/16-18 right hand thread using a 7/8 hex.

What they are referencing is a later model GM truck not a hmmwv. These are old school.

Just tell parts guy 82 Chevy C20 3/4 ton 8 lug pick up

 

[Mario]

Thanks man.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

[Mario]

No, These are not metric on a hmmwv. 9/16-18 right hand thread using a 7/8 hex.

What they are referencing is a later model GM truck not a hmmwv. These are old school.

Just tell parts guy 82 Chevy C20 3/4 ton 8 lug pick up

That size do I look for on fleaBay?

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

[AMTAK]

Part number [FONT=&quot]12339403 5310-01-021-90[/FONT][FONT=&quot]27[/FONT]

 

[HUMVEE1]

Many USMC trucks had undercoating applied and some of this was on the hubs and nuts. You can see it on the nuts. If the nuts and studs are black and gooey, you will not be able to turn them by hand.
Army Hmmwv models did not have the undercoating and had non under coated nuts and studs.
These nuts can be turned by hand once loosened.
This is from my experience with over 10,000 hmmwv lug nut interactions and not a TM, but the basic hardware is the same. Just old coatings packed in the threads causes the condition you describe.

 

[gringeltaube]

Starts to make sense to me...




I believe the same applies to the M1102 and M116A3 trailers.

 

[4x4nutz]

Great info. Thanks guys!!!!!

 

[NormB]

One of the first things I did when I got my truck home was to squirt Kroil on the threads and remove every lug nut one at a time. Hosed down with a little WD40, took a stainless brush to a few, put a little dab of anti-seize on the threads and reassembled to torque. Took a couple hours, but MAN were some of those suckers on tight. I had to put a breaker bar on some and stood on them (160 lbs) and they didn't budge until I bounced. Thought about buying new, but they went on pretty easily.

Oh, simple green got the WD40 and Kroil off, that, and a garden hose.

Once I get it out of the garage - maybe next week - I plan on changing out the front-rear differential and hub gear lube and will likely pull one wheel at a time (I have 3 ton jack stands, thanks) to clean up, poke around, hit some of the parts with some rustoleum rust converter spray.