Home Made Fording Kit?

[fsearls92]

I will keep the pictures coming of the additional things I add on and how I can figure to pressurize the system. Can't wait to send pictures of it deep in the water!

 

[plym49]

I think (because i am a geek) that a lot of features for the deuce could be easily made to be cab controls these days with the use of solenoids and relays.

In earlier posts we were talking about runaway motors and choking off the air supply. That's a good one to do.

Or the fording plug could be another one that is always open but with the flip of the switch it would close of a petcock

The leaky manifold heater nozzle, the fuel feed line could run thru a better (secondary) valve that would prevent 100% of the fuel from running to it UNTIL the switch got activated.

Can't forget about making a flame thrower for the exhaust, another great use for installing fear into others.

not to mention my horn button shifter lever, No relays needed but is a killer feature.

So... who wants me to start making these kits? do you think there is a market for it? I can if i felt like it.

Personally, one of the appeals of these vehicles is that they have little dependence on an electrical system. I would rather see all those flappers and valves controlled by cables and levers.

 

[hndrsonj]

You've read the manuals on post fording maintenance right? It's alot of work just to go in the water.

 

[fsearls92]

I am definately not adding any electrical stuff to run my system! It will all be manual shut off ball valves and cables!

 

[Troll1216]

I seriously hope you get LOTS of seal kits for the axles and like doing LOTS of maintaince. I look at the fording kits as an if I really really have to, not for fun, because that ammount of wrench turning and degreasing SUCKS, but to each his own...

I will enjoy keeping an eye on this thread, don't forget about the snorter hose...

I hope to have my kit started in the next few months, I did get a plug for the bellhousing. Biggest thing is the compressor to air box hose.

Good luck with it, I will enjoy following up.

 

[islandguydon]

Ok, here are a few pictures of what I have accomplished so far. I had the snorkel made yesterday. The axle vents, transmission, and t case have been vented to the fire wall (but now I am going to take it to the top of the snorkel). Also I ran the compressor over to the air box. I still have a couple of more afternoons of work pressurizing the system and doing other odds and ends. One question I have is when in deep water do I shut off the power switch in the cab to prevent any electrical issues?

Thanks for the write up. The pictures help. I have to do the air compressor hose next. What size hose barb did you use. ..?

 

[winerydale]

I can only speak on the Marine Corps Fording Kit that we used. The intake hose is a reinforce rubber tube 4" That sets even with the exaust, held inplace by 2 clamps that attach to the Exaust stack and crowned with a special cap, Not the breather cap on a standard M35. The Crancase breather as stated earlier is routed beside the intake hose through a seprate hole that must be cut prior. the hose is routed from the bottom of the breather through the hole and through the clamps that attach to the exaust stack into the Mushroom . The Air Compressor is routed from the nipple on the intake of the compressor to the back of the filter can. The Pressure regulator that pressurises the bell housing only at a pressure of only 4 PSI is run off of the Transfer Case Air Shift Controle via a jumper tube. You also were given a new vent which you had to replace on the Tranny. I dont know if it was a one way valve, or just a clean vent for relieving the excess pressure. There were no provisions for venting the Transfer Case, Axles or winch on the M35A2. There was an effort to pressurize the master cylinder via a very small copper tube off the main air but was later plugged. As stated earlier in this thread Fording is NOT RECOMMENDED as a pleaseure ride. Before Fording engage the Fording Air Control, Take Bellhousing plug out of its parking spot and put it in the hole, Put truck in low range, Ford. When exiting water Turn off Air, stop, put plug back in parking spot, Then Dry brakes. When you get back to the shop Check and Replace Fluids as Necissary. i hope that this has helped. David

 

[orren]

Bell housing plug option.

Does anyone here know why you can't just leave the bellhousing plug
in all the time? The only reason I can see not leaving plug in is if you have bad seals and are getting a lot of leaking that may affect clutch.

All comments appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Floridianson]

Rear main seal or trans leaking into the bellhousing and gathering enough to wet the clutch. Also if a small amount of water does leak into to bellhousing by takeing out the plug or opening the ball valve and running it for awhile it will dry out what water made it in there and keep down the rust.

Also there might be a issue with the fan blade. Thought the belt was to be slacked if you get it deep enough to cover the whole blade. Yes as said there is a lot to think about and do after you return from deep water but I have a feeling you going to find that out.

 

[ken]

One other item that has been over looked. Make sure your oil filler cap on top of the valve cover is in good shape! The neiboring fire dept to us lost thier engine when water filled it during tropical storm allison.

 

[islandguydon]

Rear main seal or trans leaking into the bell housing and gathering enough to wet the clutch. Also if a small amount of water does leak into to bell housing by taking out the plug or opening the ball valve and running it for awhile it will dry out what water made it in there and keep down the rust.

Also there might be a issue with the fan blade. Thought the belt was to be slacked if you get it deep enough to cover the whole blade. Yes as said there is a lot to think about and do after you return from deep water but I have a feeling you going to find that out.

When I drove the Oddball express back to Michigan from Florida I was pulling a Deuce box double axle trailer. Both the trailer and 109 box was full of heavy equipment from the GA Rally and from Chris, which would be a load for any truck.

I noticed about half way home when I would stop for fuel a small pool of oil under the bell housing. I called Chris and asked him what I should do. I was told it was normal to get some blow by and it drains through the fording plug hole. I only lost 3 quarts of oil on the whole trip. Not bad considering the miles under a heavy load and the mountainous driving.

As far as the fan blade goes, I would think a more modern clutch driven fan blade assembly might be the answer.

 

[hndrsonj]

The Crancase breather as stated earlier is routed beside the intake hose through a seprate hole that must be cut prior. the hose is routed from the bottom of the breather through the hole and through the clamps that attach to the exaust stack into the Mushroom .

Actually, the manuals show to leave the right side panel open and not make a custom hole. I enlarged my air intake hole in the right side panel and ran the hoses through it just because it looks better, but it does make it a PITA if you have to get in there.

 

[Rodger]

subscribed

 

[Floridianson]

[QUOTE=islandguydon I was told it was normal to get some blow by and it drains through the fording plug hole.

I DON'T THINK SO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[fsearls92]

If the trucks are made and fully capable of going through deep water, why do so many people discourage it? I blew axle seals just getting them wet. That is why I am plumbing their vents and such up high and adding pressure to the system to prevent problems. Why would people not take them deep?

 

[Speddmon]

If the trucks are made and fully capable of going through deep water, why do so many people discourage it? I blew axle seals just getting them wet. That is why I am plumbing their vents and such up high and adding pressure to the system to prevent problems. Why would people not take them deep?

My quess is you'll find out pretty quickly after you do it. But I would have to say that the biggest reason is that the seals and such provisions do not make the truck water PROOF, rather water RESISTANT. Even with good seals on the axels and all of the proper pressure valves and such, I bet you'll still find water where you don't want it.

They were made to ba able to do the things they do for battlefield conditions and to be able to get the heck out of dodge if the SHTF. They were never intended to be submerged for pleasure riding.

 

[crazywelder72]

All i want to add is i think its funny they refer to the drive shafts as propeller shafts. Maybe they were designing a boat with wheels to drive to Bikini Bottom too visit spongebob.

 

[hndrsonj]

All i want to add is i think its funny they refer to the drive shafts as propeller shafts. Maybe they were designing a boat with wheels to drive to Bikini Bottom too visit spongebob.

Remember the CCKW was prior to the REO's and the DUKW was a variant of them and it does have a "prop" shaft right in the center rear.

 

[bearboley]

Seals are lips that are designed to keep oil and grease in the housing be means of the vee shape of the sealing lip, pressure from the inside pushes the seal tight against the rotating shaft, But there not to good at keeping pressurized anything out. This is just my take on it so don't take it as gospel. I Know that if your axle housing vent is plugged you will blow wheel seals from to much internal pressure. To much room for error in my book for positive pressure in the housings to work with long term success. Very little water in your oil will turn it gray and your wheel bearings will not be kind to you. I will keep my truck on the high road and use the boat for the water.

 

[barefootin]

All i want to add is i think its funny they refer to the drive shafts as propeller shafts. Maybe they were designing a boat with wheels to drive to Bikini Bottom too visit spongebob.

This is the term I grew up with and hadn't used the term "drive shaft" until I was much older. It's a propeller shaft in the true definition. A propeller shaft, or Cardan shaft is a mechanical component for transmitting torque and rotation used to connect components to a drive train. It "propel's" you forward... Many car manufacturers still refer to them as such in their tech manuals. Just remember if it says use a "torch" to aid, it's referencing a "flash light" not a "torch" in our American vocab.... Any yes, I do spell tire, tyre..