Junkyard Wars Crusher
12B20
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Thought I would share a little brake bleeder tool that I cooked up. I wanted to be able to capture the BFS that spills/squirts out all over the ground/truck/hand/arm etc.
I took a piece of 3/4" steel hex stock (x 2" long) and drilled a 3/8" hole through axially. Then counterbored to an inside diameter of .623" x 1.5" deep to make a tight press fit with a standard craftsman 7/16" deep socket (3/8" drive). Then I turned down the outside for about half the length to provide additional clearance. Then pressed the socket into the counterbore to create a permanent assembly.
Purchased a short length of vinyl tubing, (5/16" id, 3/8 od, IIRC?) Anyway, the tubing fits snuggly over the nipple on the bleeder screw, and the od of the tubing just fits the through hole in the craftsman 7/16" socket.
To use the tool, I slide the tubing through the socket and onto the nipple of the bleeder screw. Then slide the socket onto the hex of the bleeder screw. Then grab my favorite MAC 3/4" ratcheting box end wrench and slide it onto the 3/4" hex stock. (I suppose you could easily use a 3/4" open or box end wrench just as well)
Now I place the free end of the tubing into a "catch" container (an empty clear one gallon jug works great). This allows me to capture and examine the brake fluid that I am pushing out. It also helps me to see when I have clean fluid coming through. (If the captured fluid looks pretty good, I might even save a small bottle for emergency use.)
BTW: I also fabbed up the pressure bleeder posted up by Kenny (recovry4x4) and it worked PRETTY D*MN SLICK!!!
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=3439
I added a pressure gauge, and pumped up to about 30psi. Did a complete bleed job (by myself!) in about 30-40 minutes!! Thanks Kenny!!
See the pictures below to make sense of my description
I took a piece of 3/4" steel hex stock (x 2" long) and drilled a 3/8" hole through axially. Then counterbored to an inside diameter of .623" x 1.5" deep to make a tight press fit with a standard craftsman 7/16" deep socket (3/8" drive). Then I turned down the outside for about half the length to provide additional clearance. Then pressed the socket into the counterbore to create a permanent assembly.
Purchased a short length of vinyl tubing, (5/16" id, 3/8 od, IIRC?) Anyway, the tubing fits snuggly over the nipple on the bleeder screw, and the od of the tubing just fits the through hole in the craftsman 7/16" socket.
To use the tool, I slide the tubing through the socket and onto the nipple of the bleeder screw. Then slide the socket onto the hex of the bleeder screw. Then grab my favorite MAC 3/4" ratcheting box end wrench and slide it onto the 3/4" hex stock. (I suppose you could easily use a 3/4" open or box end wrench just as well)
Now I place the free end of the tubing into a "catch" container (an empty clear one gallon jug works great). This allows me to capture and examine the brake fluid that I am pushing out. It also helps me to see when I have clean fluid coming through. (If the captured fluid looks pretty good, I might even save a small bottle for emergency use.)
BTW: I also fabbed up the pressure bleeder posted up by Kenny (recovry4x4) and it worked PRETTY D*MN SLICK!!!
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=3439
I added a pressure gauge, and pumped up to about 30psi. Did a complete bleed job (by myself!) in about 30-40 minutes!! Thanks Kenny!!
See the pictures below to make sense of my description
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