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Hood removal

277
4
18
Location
Belton, SC
The TM cracks me up sometimes. I need to change my hood hinges, so I looked up how to remove the hood.
Prerequisites: Disconnect battery cable.
Then it says something like, "Working behind the instrument panel, soldier A holds locknuts. Tell soldier B when ready".

I don't know if you guys have been up in that area, but it's pretty congested. Mission Impossible.

I can just picture the TM on brain surgury (if there were such a thing): "Remove the top of the skull. Extract brain" LOL
 

Scar59

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,811
41
38
Location
Mt. Eden, KY
Pretty easy with two individuals , remove the glove box and the pass. side fastners are exposed.
The drivers side will require an extention to reach the fastners (nuts). 15 min job, hood should off.
 

M543A2

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,063
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Location
Warsaw, Indiana
Is this one of those kind of situations where one would not be surprised to see "A cave man could do it" in the TM?!
 
277
4
18
Location
Belton, SC
That rubbery guy from Fantastic 4 could do it, no problem!

My hinges are so bad that I'll probably end up cutting the bolts off. I just thought the TM instructions were funny.
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,026
113
Location
London England
Well actually, fun aside, I had a friend who had an "explosion"..A spanner dropped onto the starter motor!..(my motto) "the ONLY way to keep out of trouble, Is NOT to get into it in the first place".

Rule definitely applies "going down steep hills."
Check, Air pressure. . >>other Gauges.
Check Change. .....>>(Downshift).
Stabilize R.P.M. And ..>> Check Brakes.
Control with Occasional minimum Braking.
My rule, And Always applied.
My 3/4 (safety) penne'th.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,389
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Well actually, fun aside, I had a friend who had an "explosion"..A spanner dropped onto the starter motor!..(my motto) "the ONLY way to keep out of trouble, Is NOT to get into it in the first place".

Rule definitely applies "going down steep hills."
Check, Air pressure. . >>other Gauges.
Check Change. .....>>(Downshift).
Stabilize R.P.M. And ..>> Check Brakes.
Control with Occasional minimum Braking.
My rule, And Always applied.
My 3/4 (safety) penne'th.
Yep ,you don't want to be moving a metal wrench around the inside of the dash where all those nice electrical wires are !
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
747
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I know its not a great answer but, if you pull the gauge panel out, you can reach the hood bolts pretty easy(with the windows pushed out).
 

Floridianson

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,390
2,439
113
Location
Interlachen Fl.
This is where a contortionist come in handy. Use to take me about a min. to get in the cab backwards and up side down with one leg one way the one leg somewhere else. Once on the back easy to see and work. Just don't drop tools or the stuff you are working with. Also fat boys need not apply for this job. Yea TM's can read funny and I don't think they were written by a mechanic.
 

jbayer

Member
675
7
18
Location
St. Aug., FL/ McGrady, NC
I know its not a great answer but, if you pull the gauge panel out, you can reach the hood bolts pretty easy(with the windows pushed out).
I think that's the best answer. I was able to remove my D. side hinge through the Gauge panel opening, get a bucking bar in there to reform the cowl, and then mount a bigger reinforcement plate all by myself. For the P. side, remove the Glove box.
I never thought to read the TM's for that.:doh:
 
Last edited:
277
4
18
Location
Belton, SC
Well actually, fun aside, I had a friend who had an "explosion"..A spanner dropped onto the starter motor!..(my motto) "the ONLY way to keep out of trouble, Is NOT to get into it in the first place".

Rule definitely applies "going down steep hills."
Check, Air pressure. . >>other Gauges.
Check Change. .....>>(Downshift).
Stabilize R.P.M. And ..>> Check Brakes.
Control with Occasional minimum Braking.
My rule, And Always applied.
My 3/4 (safety) penne'th.
Yeah that prerequisite step "disconnect ground cable" is a pretty important one! At least they didn't leave that one out.
 

jbayer

Member
675
7
18
Location
St. Aug., FL/ McGrady, NC
I never removed the "map compartment".
If you put a piece of paper over your wrench, then press the nut into the wrench, through the paper, it will hold the nut in place for you.
Yea, it's definitely doable without removing the "map compartment" :D, but I made larger, thicker reinforcement plates for the hinges, so taking "a" minute to remove the "map compartment":D for more access room was a no brainer. I also put washers on the new bolts, so it would have been even tougher.
 

jbayer

Member
675
7
18
Location
St. Aug., FL/ McGrady, NC
I never removed the "map compartment".
Oh, look gimpyrobb, per the "Deuce" TM 9-2320-209-20P, it is a "GLOVE COMPARTMENT", and NOT a "map compartment"
just saying.
157 22 PAOZZ 2540-00-459-3194 7397850 19207 COMPARTMENT,GLOVE EA 1
157 23 PAOZZ 5330-00-693-0611 7373339 19207 SEAL,RUBBER,SPECIAL EA 1
157 24 PAOZZ 2510-00-737-3340 7373340 19207 DOOR: GLOVE COMPARTMENT,W/HANDLE
 

71DeuceAK

Well-known member
1,493
346
83
Location
Fairbanks, Alaska
Off-topic I know, but the one that cracks me up is in the M939 -10: Every "Warning" also says "Failure do do this will result in injury or death" or something to that extent. EVERY time.
 

jbayer

Member
675
7
18
Location
St. Aug., FL/ McGrady, NC
Wow, I didn't mean to have you spend 10 days looking through manuals, my bad. :oops:
I'm not that anal. I never gave it a second thought. I was just looking for the seat tracks and just stumbled upon it. Heck, I didn't even know what manual to look in, I just picked one and I got the right one on the first try. It's all good.:grin:
 
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