Horsepower Requirements for fan?

[MarcusOReallyus]

Same capacity for the front battery and rear. That's the only option. Of course, they can be physically located wherever you want, even under the bed. All it takes is a little fabrication for a mount and lots of copper to connect them.

A bunch of lawnmower batteries could be wired in parallel to get more amps. Might fit under the bed better.

You'll need a couple of upgraded alternators to charge them, of course.

The bad news is, batteries have weight. For lead acid, there's not much difference in the capacity per weight ratings across the different kinds and sizes. Pretty much, X pounds of battery is going to get you Y amp hours of capacity, whether it's lawnmower or truck batteries. TINSTAAFL again.

To break out of that you have to go to a different battery technology, like lithium-ion, and that brings in some charging complications. You would not want want to mix lead-acid and LI on the same charging circuit. But then, you could just convert to LI completely. That would be cool.

Some interesting reading here.

 

[shotty]

I think that 24v to 12v converter setup thatveas linked earlier might be the way to go if you want to run a lot of 24v accessories. Keeps the load equal across the batteries at all times and should the converter fail you can easily wire the truck back how it was to get 12v to the buss bar.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

It's a completely unnecessary complication which adds another failure point. These trucks have lived with a battery imbalance since the day they left the factory. It's designed that way. That's why it's got 2x12v alternators intead of one 24v alternator. Each alternator takes care of topping up its own battery and keeping it happy. The "problem" of the batteries being imbalanced is theoretically real, but it doesn't matter in the real world. It's a non-issue.

Adding 24v accessories will only make the "problem" less, not more, because the "problem" is that the 24v battery (rear) only gets used a little bit (starting and GPs) and the 12v (front) gets used for everything else. More 24v accessories means the 24v battery gets used more. There's better balance.

People complain about the resistor bypass specifically because it uses LESS of the 24v and MORE of the 12v, thus making the imbalance worse. (Oh, and even that doesn't cause any real-world problems.)

 

[Curtisje]

It's a completely unnecessary complication which adds another failure point. These trucks have lived with a battery imbalance since the day they left the factory. It's designed that way. That's why it's got 2x12v alternators intead of one 24v alternator. Each alternator takes care of topping up its own battery and keeping it happy. The "problem" of the batteries being imbalanced is theoretically real, but it doesn't matter in the real world. It's a non-issue.

Adding 24v accessories will only make the "problem" less, not more, because the "problem" is that the 24v battery (rear) only gets used a little bit (starting and GPs) and the 12v (front) gets used for everything else. More 24v accessories means the 24v battery gets used more. There's better balance.

People complain about the resistor bypass specifically because it uses LESS of the 24v and MORE of the 12v, thus making the imbalance worse. (Oh, and even that doesn't cause any real-world problems.)

My 24v to 12v converter supplies a constant 13.8v from 18-36 volt input. That has made a difference on the 12 volt side of the truck. The blinkers are constant. The lights don't get brighter or dimmer with the engine rpms. Even if my batteries are a little weak the 12 volt side including the glow plug system will receive 13.8 volts for start up. The starter is the only part that will suffer from weak batteries at start up with this set up.

I do agree that it was an unnecessary modification, I could have kept driving it as it was... but it certainly hasn't complicated anything.

 

[Curtisje]

I’d sure like to know what those options are. Any advice or suggestions you can provide will be appreciated.

Odyssey batteries are expensive but I bet 4 group 31 batteries (2×2 parallel and series) would get you all the power your looking for. Some custom battery trays to hold them properly and supported at the frame will be needed if you do this under the hood. You still need to calculate your max usage to figure it out.

 

[Sharecropper]

Would this work?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Nope.



You want two (or 3, or 17, or whatever number) batteries in parallel for your 12v bank, and two (or 3, or 17, or whatever SAME number) batteries in parallel for your 24v bank. The 12v bank is in series with the 24v bank, just the same as it is now.

 

[Sharecropper]

Nope.



You want two (or 3, or 17, or whatever number) batteries in parallel for your 12v bank, and two (or 3, or 17, or whatever SAME number) batteries in parallel for your 24v bank. The 12v bank is in series with the 24v bank, just the same as it is now.


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Thanks for that. I think I am beginning to grasp the theory now. So in your opinion, would your circuit design replicate their OEM circuit, but increase CCA?

 

[Curtisje]

Thanks for that. I think I am beginning to grasp the theory now. So in your opinion, would your circuit design replicate their OEM circuit, but increase CCA?

That's exactly how I ran my M1008.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Thanks for that. I think I am beginning to grasp the theory now. So in your opinion, would your circuit design replicate their OEM circuit, but increase CCA?

That's exactly what it will do. And that's not just my opinion, that's electrical fact. As was mentioned above, build your custom battery racks and wire them as I diagrammed, and you will be good to go.

 

[Sharecropper]

I have the 12v version but without the built in controller. In my research, lots of people having failures of the built in one, typically within 6 months. Why I opted to go the route I did. The fan itself works really well and is quiet. Just wouldn't trust the built in controller.

Hey Mike - which controller are you running on your electric fan? I would like to have the soft-start feature and variable speed control, however to take your advice I would like to avoid the built-in controller if possible.

Thanks.

 

[chevymike]

Hey Mike - which controller are you running on your electric fan? I would like to have the soft-start feature and variable speed control, however to take your advice I would like to avoid the built-in controller if possible.

Thanks.

I am running this one from AutoCoolGuy. https://www.autocoolguy.com/product-page/auto-cool-nb-50-no-buzz-50-amps Scroll to the bottom of the page to see this unit. His website kind of sucks. LOL

He has many different one based on how much current your fans are going to draw. For the fan I used, 50amp is more than enough. In case it wasn't clear, this is in my '48 Chevy street rod, not the M1010.

 

[Sharecropper]

I am running this one from AutoCoolGuy. https://www.autocoolguy.com/product-page/auto-cool-nb-50-no-buzz-50-amps

He has many different one based on how much current your fans are going to draw. For the fan I used, 50amp is more than enough. In case it wasn't clear, this is in my '48 Chevy street rod, not the M1010.

Thanks. I will give him a call on Monday to discuss. I plan on running the fan at 24-volts to decrease the amperage draw.