"Hot Start Issue"

[jimm1009]

I know that this subject has been covered before. I have a M1009 with 12 volt starter and one alternator but all else is the same.
Been through the military added relay change but the civy trucks had the same problem.
Anyone know how to add the starter button mod so that when the key switch does not start the truck that the button will?

I am at home in the driveway but really need my truck started and it has been going "click click" for a week.
Almost new starter and good ground to engine and starter etc.
The civy poor design from the 70's into the 80's is affecting me too.

Can I add a button from the batter buss to the starter stud on the solenoid or is this not the way to go?
Desperate to get going to use the truck for a friend to pull a trailer.

jimm1009

 

[LT67]

I know that this subject has been covered before. I have a M1009 with 12 volt starter and one alternator but all else is the same.
Been through the military added relay change but the civy trucks had the same problem.
Anyone know how to add the starter button mod so that when the key switch does not start the truck that the button will?

I am at home in the driveway but really need my truck started and it has been going "click click" for a week.
Almost new starter and good ground to engine and starter etc.
The civy poor design from the 70's into the 80's is affecting me too.

Can I add a button from the batter buss to the starter stud on the solenoid or is this not the way to go?
Desperate to get going to use the truck for a friend to pull a trailer.

jimm1009

If the battery is good to go, that sounds like a starter/solenoid issue

 

[jimm1009]

If the battery is good to go, that sounds like a starter/solenoid issue

It is not a solenoid issue. GM knows that there was an issue called hot start which is a misnomer as it did it cold too. There is a wiring defect that groups the M series CUCV trucks into the civilian problem as the basic wiring was the same. You can change starters or solenoids all day long but will not fix the issue until you move the correct wire that has a bad contact.
There are some people that fix the issue by either replacing the wiring harness with a new one or by putting in the "starter button" circuit.

 

[Mullaney]

It is not a solenoid issue. GM knows that there was an issue called hot start which is a misnomer as it did it cold too. There is a wiring defect that groups the M series CUCV trucks into the civilian problem as the basic wiring was the same. You can change starters or solenoids all day long but will not fix the issue until you move the correct wire that has a bad contact.
There are some people that fix the issue by either replacing the wiring harness with a new one or by putting in the "starter button" circuit.

.
As you said, it isn't really a "fix" more of a work around - but a starter button from the local parts house with a couple of alligator clips and a push button could be used.

There are 2 small connectors on the front facing side of the solenoid, on top of the starter. In the civilian truck, the bigger wire (not the main battery wire) should be purple. Touch that connection point to the hot wire to the solenoid and the starter will engage and spin. Key has to be on for the truck to crank.

Don't want to insult your intelligence - but if it is a manual transmission - double check that it is out of gear.
Running over yourself can make for a really bad day

If you want to have a permanent bypass with a push button inside the truck - REMEMBER TO USE A FUSE - on both sides that connect to the solenoid. Be safe for sure. Wouldn't want to burn your truck to the ground with a rigged up starter button!

 

[LT67]

Had my 24V 27MT starter rebuilt with the correct 24V solenoid. For some unknown reason it kept eating solenoids. Sometimes it would only click, sometimes it would not engage the flexplate and some times it would fire right up. Never could figure out what the issue was. We replaced the 27MT with a 28MT starter/solenoid and I haven't a problem since. So yes, you may have a defective starter and solenoid even if they were recently replaced.

 

[Barrman]

I don't know how your 12 volt conversion was done so this is just a guess. The big red wire from the batter to the starter goes on the big stud of the solenoid. There should be a smaller 12 gauge or so wire on the same stud that goes to the diamond shaped 2 post buss bar above the glow plug solenoid and next to the brake booster. Check your connections there since the other post on that diamond shaped buss bar is what gives the key turned ignition switch the power to send to the purple wire on the starter solenoid.

I agree with the others that it really could just be a starter/solenoid issue. I have had no start issues that drove me nuts trying to figure out and they normally ended up being at the starter with me hugging the front axle.

 

[LT67]

**if you ever decide to use a 28MT 12V starter, you will need the starter brace for a 6.5 diesel. Btw, my 86 M1008 has the 12V conversion along with a 28MT 12V starter. I've had zero issues with it and it starts every time....

 

[jimm1009]

I guess I am going to bite the bullet and pull the trigger. I put an after market "mean green" starter on the truck 10 years ago partially due to my OEM starter being worn out and also the "click-click" issue. I bypassed the pins for transferring the power on that purple wire and rand a one piece wire through the firewall with nice grommet around it for protection and still the "click-click" comes and goes.
There are several CUCV owners swearing by the 28MT starter.
Anyone have a good source for that unit? I will also do a Google search for it today as well.
Thank you in advance fellow MVers.
jimm1009

Update found one on Amazon for $100 and it says brand new but not sure of the "country of origin". If it is from the same country as the coviod19 virus then it will not be considered.
New Starter Replacement For 1982-2002 Chevy GMC 6.2 6.5 Diesel 28MT 27MT High Torque 2.5 kW 10465014 10465054 1109563 1113589 1998442

 

[LT67]

I guess I am going to bite the bullet and pull the trigger. I put an after market "mean green" starter on the truck 10 years ago partially due to my OEM starter being worn out and also the "click-click" issue. I bypassed the pins for transferring the power on that purple wire and rand a one piece wire through the firewall with nice grommet around it for protection and still the "click-click" comes and goes.
There are several CUCV owners swearing by the 28MT starter.
Anyone have a good source for that unit? I will also do a Google search for it today as well.
Thank you in advance fellow MVers.
jimm1009

Update found one on Amazon for $100 and it says brand new but not sure of the "country of origin". If it is from the same country as the coviod19 virus then it will not be considered.
New Starter Replacement For 1982-2002 Chevy GMC 6.2 6.5 Diesel 28MT 27MT High Torque 2.5 kW 10465014 10465054 1109563 1113589 1998442

The shop that rebuilt my 27MT ordered mine for me... I think it was $160. It's not a cheap chinese unit, just can't remember where it came from.

It is a gear reduction starter and while they claimed the 24V 28MT would turn the engine over faster, it does not. However it still starts every time though. Same with the 12V 28MT on my other m1008.